Outdoor Power Equipment (Lawn Mowers, Snow Blowers, Chain Saws and more) Discussions

I don't really need another project this winter but could anyone tell me if this BCS tiller is worth putting some time into? Right now all I know is that the cylinder in the italian (Acme) 8hp engine does not seem to move at all. There is what smells like diesel fuel on the top of the cylinder when you pull the sparkplug.  I checked the reviews on this web page and the new models seem to have satisfied owners.  I don't really need the snowblower part that came with it. Just the tiller. Any thoughts/comments/concerns are welcome. If you know the vintage of the unit that would be of interest to me.  The tires have a few very small cracks (where the wheels sat for a long time without much air)  but nothing that would concern me.  I don't have any information from the previous owner other than it's been in the family a long time, sat in a barn in VT, and the engine is siezed up.  It uses one of those oil bath air filters.  It has three forward speeds and one speed reverse. Would an inexpensive chinese (honda knockoff) 8hp bolt right on?

Have you checked the spark plug wire and spark plug cap for continuity?   You might have a bad wire/cap causing an intermittent loss of conductivity.

borat wrote:
Yes, I did check the plug wire and spark plug cap for continuity. Both seemed fine at the time. I will check them again.  Why would the two points not show continuity when they are pushed together. That makes no sense.  Maybe I should get a closer look at them and check the gap again.  I found shop service manual on the internet.  I'm hoping it arrives by the weekend. Then I can confirm the gap setting. Maybe they aren't making good contact with each other.  That Marvel Mystery oil was everywhere and the carb above drips directly onto the point when the box is open.

Did you wash the points down after you used the sand paper?..... The points run on  the primary windingsof the magneto ignition system (low  voltage/ no jumping spark ). That means that the points MUST touch when they close no oily residue,  no leftover grit from the sandpaper.  One little grain of sand paper sand will screw up the system...  Carb cleaner sometimes has a lubricant  in it or a light penetrating oil that can act as a diaelectric,   clean the points with rubbing alcohol or contact cleaner..

Good luck

Friiy

No, I did not wash down the points  them after sanding them.  This theory for the lack of spark (contaminated points) makes the most sense.  Maybe there was enough Marvel Mystery oil on the sides of the points to prevent a good contact with the tester. I will wash them down with alcohol.  The gap on the points is supposed to be .018 and the gap on the  spark plug is supposed to be .025.   The spark plug for this ACME engine is Champion L86 or NGK 7534.

A few posts back Borat talked about the plug boot....   One thing to check on the rubber plug boot is that when the rubber drys out the boot becomes brittle and alittle crunchy when you roll it around in your fingers flexing it.  When it gets this way the boot can conduct spark and  cause the engine to misfire..

I  always remove the rubber boot and inspect the tin end that snaps over the plug.  I also check to see if the pug wire end is exposed and green or rotted out from corrosion.  Do this as a side note if you can get to it without tearing the machine apart or damaging the wire.

Friiy

It's running now!  Cleaned the points with alchohol and let the clutch soak overnight in a penetrating oil.  Check it out:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BvE3O5QJSNg&fmt=18

I tiilled and seeded the front yard this a.m.  It tills very nicely.  Its also very easy to handle.  You can run the the tiller with just one hand. The direction on the side of the unit say to use a straight 40 weight oil. Those directions were printed in the late 1970's. Is it safe to say that a multi viscosity  oil would be a better option today?  Or do I look for a straight 40 weight?

A huge thanks to everyone on the board for being patient and helping out.         

Congratulations.  Persistence has paid off.  I like that in a person. 

I'd probably go with a 15W40 Rotella in the summer.  If you use it for snow removal in the winter, I'd go with a 5W30 synthetic.   You might want to do a compression test just to see if it  may need a set of rings.  Otherwise, it looks/runs pretty good.  

     The tag I think said 40 summer/ 30 winter..   Multi-weight oil won't hurt anything,  It may use a little, (burn) if you use the multi-grade.    I would use a decent cheaper oil now with a oil change,  and air cleaner service,  then use it a bit  (hour or two),  then change to what you feel you like the best...  

     Looks like it tilled and killed a few mosquitoes,  I bet that muffler was full of oil and/ or  Marvel mystery oil...   Looks running it burned all out,  good...Did your neighbor call the fire department.

Well, at least Marvel oil smells beter than gear oil burning...

Might want to put a fuel filter on it and change the gas line at the same time....

Keep A eye on the Carb,   If it starts to drip you may need a needle/seat or a flush of the fuel system (grit in the gas)..

I would put a fuel shut-off on it if you are going to keep it in the Garage.   Just to perevent fuel spills and fire hazard.

You should post some pics  of the work it did.  I find with my Troy Bilt, I llike to keep the snow / dozer blade on all the time.  That way the tiller always is sitting level and the it makes a hell of a bumper. 

I use the Troy bilt to level dirt in the yard, and level a circlular drive that is gravel.  They work great..

Now go get some Gunk and clean it up,  Put the blade on and post a pic of or two of the kids siting on it like its a pony  (not running of course),  Name it and put it in the garage where your wifes car normaly sits. ( she will love you much more for that..)

Waiting for the pics.

Friiy