Outdoor Power Equipment (Lawn Mowers, Snow Blowers, Chain Saws and more) Discussions

I don't really need another project this winter but could anyone tell me if this BCS tiller is worth putting some time into? Right now all I know is that the cylinder in the italian (Acme) 8hp engine does not seem to move at all. There is what smells like diesel fuel on the top of the cylinder when you pull the sparkplug.  I checked the reviews on this web page and the new models seem to have satisfied owners.  I don't really need the snowblower part that came with it. Just the tiller. Any thoughts/comments/concerns are welcome. If you know the vintage of the unit that would be of interest to me.  The tires have a few very small cracks (where the wheels sat for a long time without much air)  but nothing that would concern me.  I don't have any information from the previous owner other than it's been in the family a long time, sat in a barn in VT, and the engine is siezed up.  It uses one of those oil bath air filters.  It has three forward speeds and one speed reverse. Would an inexpensive chinese (honda knockoff) 8hp bolt right on?

That is more for elctronic ignition than points....

also alot of that is nonsense as for as  (checking magnet strengh and coil to flywheel airgap )  and so on.  The thought I have is , no one has butchered into this machine yet... as far as taking this thing apart and putting it back together and really screwing things up..  I would keep troubleshooting as though the machine did not start one day...not like someone brought it to you in a box.

Magnets do not dissipate unless exposed to EXTREME Heat,   EXTREME current flow. (like a shorting a battery through the flywheel for a minute). 

Friiy

It doesn't  look like it has alot of wear on it,  The tread is still there, the tin over the tines is in good shape.   A Diamond in the rough...

Friiy

We've got a spark! Terrific. Well sort of.  Here's what happened. (sorry its so long)

1) with all the wires disconnected from the bracket/screw (the one attached to  one of the points)  the bracket/screw would not show continuity (short) when the other lead of the tester was touched to the block. This was true when the  point were closed and even when they were open. (either way, nothing was showing a ground to the engine)

2) with the coil wire connected to the points bracket/screw there was continuity (grounding situation?) between the bracket/screw.  This was true if the points were open and also true if  the points were closed. It always grounded.

3) Now this is the strange part so bear with me.  With only the condensor wire connected to the points/bracket and the points open, there was was no continuity (no grounding situation).  With the points closed there was still no grounding, But then one time there was. Yes, just randomly the tester beeped. But then I could not repeat the result.

4) The points.  This is really bizzare.  With all the wires removed from the bracket/screw  and the points open there was no continuity (no grounding) when one lead was attached to one point and another lead was attached to the other (second) point.  With the points closed this was still true. This situation existed with the coil and condensor connected to the screw/bracket.  The current was not going between the two points.  I washed them down with cleaner and ran the a very fine grit sandpaper between them (for the third time). They don't seem dirty or worn.  Granted they are old.  But sometimes,( when they test positive for continuity) the spark plug gets a really nice popping spark (i can see it easily and i have issues with my vision). Other times the points don't show continuity and there's no spark.  I know they need to be clean  and gapped right. But there's something more to this.  When i test them for continuity I don't even use the face of the points, I use their sides. Where would a point loose it's connection.   Are the soldered on? What hold them in place? Does this sound like I'm looking in the right place for a solution?

Good news: the kill switch and its lead wire are fine. And the ACME sometimes has spark!  Friiy, this was a good day. 

Have you checked the spark plug wire and spark plug cap for continuity?   You might have a bad wire/cap causing an intermittent loss of conductivity.

borat wrote:
Yes, I did check the plug wire and spark plug cap for continuity. Both seemed fine at the time. I will check them again.  Why would the two points not show continuity when they are pushed together. That makes no sense.  Maybe I should get a closer look at them and check the gap again.  I found shop service manual on the internet.  I'm hoping it arrives by the weekend. Then I can confirm the gap setting. Maybe they aren't making good contact with each other.  That Marvel Mystery oil was everywhere and the carb above drips directly onto the point when the box is open.

Did you wash the points down after you used the sand paper?..... The points run on  the primary windingsof the magneto ignition system (low  voltage/ no jumping spark ). That means that the points MUST touch when they close no oily residue,  no leftover grit from the sandpaper.  One little grain of sand paper sand will screw up the system...  Carb cleaner sometimes has a lubricant  in it or a light penetrating oil that can act as a diaelectric,   clean the points with rubbing alcohol or contact cleaner..

Good luck

Friiy

No, I did not wash down the points  them after sanding them.  This theory for the lack of spark (contaminated points) makes the most sense.  Maybe there was enough Marvel Mystery oil on the sides of the points to prevent a good contact with the tester. I will wash them down with alcohol.  The gap on the points is supposed to be .018 and the gap on the  spark plug is supposed to be .025.   The spark plug for this ACME engine is Champion L86 or NGK 7534.

A few posts back Borat talked about the plug boot....   One thing to check on the rubber plug boot is that when the rubber drys out the boot becomes brittle and alittle crunchy when you roll it around in your fingers flexing it.  When it gets this way the boot can conduct spark and  cause the engine to misfire..

I  always remove the rubber boot and inspect the tin end that snaps over the plug.  I also check to see if the pug wire end is exposed and green or rotted out from corrosion.  Do this as a side note if you can get to it without tearing the machine apart or damaging the wire.

Friiy

It's running now!  Cleaned the points with alchohol and let the clutch soak overnight in a penetrating oil.  Check it out:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BvE3O5QJSNg&fmt=18

I tiilled and seeded the front yard this a.m.  It tills very nicely.  Its also very easy to handle.  You can run the the tiller with just one hand. The direction on the side of the unit say to use a straight 40 weight oil. Those directions were printed in the late 1970's. Is it safe to say that a multi viscosity  oil would be a better option today?  Or do I look for a straight 40 weight?

A huge thanks to everyone on the board for being patient and helping out.