Abby’s Guide > Outdoor Power Equipment (Lawn Mowers, Snow Blowers, Chain Saws and more) > Discussions > BCS 2-wheel tractor Mainline tiller Model 715 (1978-83 vintage) with Italian ACME 8hp. Given up the ghost?
Outdoor Power Equipment (Lawn Mowers, Snow Blowers, Chain Saws and more) Discussions |
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friiy
Location: Las Vegas, The Desert
Joined: Apr 12, 2008
Points: 600
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Re: BCS Mainline tiller snowblower
Reply #23 Nov 5, 2008 12:44 am |
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The button is just another kill switch mounted on the motor, just open the box and disconnect the "remote kill switch" wire that goes up the handlebar. you can leave the wire on the unit strapped to the handle bar for now.. The remote kill button on the handle bar and the button on the block just ground out the mag and points... Friiy
This message was modified Nov 5, 2008 by friiy
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friiy
Location: Las Vegas, The Desert
Joined: Apr 12, 2008
Points: 600
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Re: BCS 2-wheel tractor Mainline tiller snowblower Model 715 (1978-83 vintage)
Reply #27 Nov 5, 2008 11:34 pm |
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Have you tried a diffrent plug? I see (I think ) three wires going to the points.. one should go to the condenser one should go to the coil. (under the blower housing) The third should go to the remote kill swich on the tiller handlebars... This is what you see correct? make sure the wire going to the remote kill is disconnected and the rest are hooked up. Do you see the points moving ? (I have seen the plunger gum up and stick / slow down) Is there a wire that goes down to the throttle linkage with a kill tab on it? The kill tab is make to ground out if the throttle is pulled back below idle.. If so, make sure it is not grounding out.. Friiy
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Underdog
Joined: Oct 18, 2008
Points: 332
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Re: BCS 2-wheel tractor Mainline tiller snowblower Model 715 (1978-83 vintage)
Reply #29 Nov 6, 2008 9:07 am |
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Have you tried a diffrent plug? I see (I think ) three wires going to the points.. one should go to the condenser one should go to the coil. (under the blower housing) The third should go to the remote kill swich on the tiller handlebars... This is what you see correct? Make sure the wire going to the remote kill is disconnected and the rest are hooked up. Do you see the points moving ? (I have seen the plunger gum up and stick / slow down) Is there a wire that goes down to the throttle linkage with a kill tab on it? The kill tab is make to ground out if the throttle is pulled back below idle.. If so, make sure it is not grounding out..y Have you tried a diffrent plug? YES, no change I see (I think ) three wires going to the points..one should go to the condenser...one should go to the coil. (under the blower housing) ...The third should go to the remote kill swich on the tiller handlebars...This is what you see correct? make sure the wire going to the remote kill is disconnected and the rest are hooked up. YES, this is correct. I took the picture just before removing the kill switch wire. I needed a photo because I was worried about getting everything back the way it was. To remove the kill switch wire you need to completely remove the screw that holds the spring to the points and the other two wires. The other wires just slide out but the kill switch is a "captive" connection so you have to remove the screw. I did that and then put the two wires back on for the condensor and the coil. All the wires looked to be in good shape. No rotted out insulation or anything like that. Do you see the points moving ? (I have seen the plunger gum up and stick / slow down) Yes, as I pulled the starter I could watch the points come together and then pull apart. Is there a wire that goes down to the throttle linkage with a kill tab on it? The kill tab is made to ground out if the throttle is pulled back below idle.. If so, make sure it is not grounding out.. No, there it to kill on teh throttle linkage
This message was modified Nov 6, 2008 by Underdog
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Underdog
Joined: Oct 18, 2008
Points: 332
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Re: BCS 2-wheel tractor Mainline tiller snowblower Model 715 (1978-83 vintage)
Reply #30 Nov 6, 2008 9:20 am |
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Do you have a volt/ ohm meter?... with the points open check to make sure there is no continuity to ground from the wires connection.. Thank you. Yes, I do have a volt/olm meter. It is a very small battery powered meter that I have used on electronics. And yes, the meter has a continuity setting on it. So I should rotate the engine until the points are open and then I shoud take take the two leads from the meter and I should put one of the leads on the points/bracket where the wires would normally attach and then touch the other lead to the aluminum engine block? Is this correct? When set on "continuity" the meter beeps when it detects a continuous circuit. So I should not hear a beep if everything is working correctly, right?
This message was modified Nov 6, 2008 by Underdog
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friiy
Location: Las Vegas, The Desert
Joined: Apr 12, 2008
Points: 600
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Re: BCS 2-wheel tractor Mainline tiller snowblower Model 715 (1978-83 vintage)
Reply #31 Nov 6, 2008 4:57 pm |
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What you stated is true, but you should have the coil-to-points wire disconnected to test... you should be able to see the points open and close on the meter as you slowly turn over the motor.. There is a Tecumseh engine service manual on the site as a link... The ignition troubleshooting (points and coil) are the same, except shape and location.. if you read the chaper (just a few pages) it will give you a great understanding of how the system works and how to troubleshoot.. I still think nothing is wrong with it... just something is shorted or grounded.. If I could have a dollar for every person that tried to buy a coil or magneto from me to repair their " ignition problem".. I would never have to ask the wife for beer money again.. . hahaha Good luck Friiy
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