Outdoor Power Equipment (Lawn Mowers, Snow Blowers, Chain Saws and more) Discussions

One of my neighbours just gave me his lightly used Sears 10/28 snowblower. He is physically unable to use it any more and was having problems with it for the last couple of years. I suspect the main problem was lack of use and old gas. The machine looks practically new and is very clean. Its in better overall shape than my machine. The only two things I've found missing are the knob on the gear shift and the bolt that holds the top of the tube that the oil dip stick goes into. The engine would not start when I got it.

I took the cowling off and low and behold, the end of the tube from the primer bulb was frayed at the carburetor end. I cut off about 1/4" and put it back on. I've bought a new tube and will replace the old one as soon as it stops snowing and the sun comes out.

The engine starts up but now surges. I've put some Sea Foam into the gas and let it run for about 10 minutes. The engine is running better and does perform better under load. It still needs work.

According to what I've read from searches on this forum and on the Tecumseh Technician's Handbook for 3 to 11HP L-Head Engines the next thing is to take apart the carburetor and clean it. I've never done a carburetor disassembly, cleaning, rebuild before so any advice on cleaning agents, things to watch out for, errors in the handbook or any other advice people would care to offer would be appreciated. I will be getting a carburetor kit from the local L&G since I'm positive gaskets and O-rings need to be replaced.

I don't have the engine serial number but will post it once the snow stops ( Thursday morning is the current prediction).

If I still have a problem then it will be time to look at the governor.

borat wrote:

Thanks Denis.

The Yamaha RD's are hot rod street bikes from the early 1970s.  The twins run pretty smooth compared to the small single Kawasaki you were riding.  The Mikuni VM28s hold their adjustment very well.  The idle screw and air screws both are spring loaded and don't move much.  They are the only two adjustment screws on the carbs.  I'm presently working on converting the points ignition system to an all electronic system.   I will also be installing a special CDI that I can plug a hand held controller into for adjusting the engine timing while the engine is running.  The programmer can hold up to ten programmed timing curves depending on what type of riding you want to do.  If you want to run with high fuel efficiency and cooler engine, there's a timing curve for that.  If you want all out horse power (for short durations) there's a curve for that.  Two stroke engines are sensitive to timing changes.  The timing requirements are considerably different at 3000 rpm vs. 10000 rpm.  Points ignition cannot deliver the timing performance that a electronic dynamic system can. 

I'm still a few weeks away from having the RD400 ready.  Will post some pics when it's ready.