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trouts2




Location: Marlboro MA
Joined: Dec 8, 2007
Points: 1328

Defective electric starter motor or switch?
Original Message   Feb 19, 2008 9:08 pm

Cherry switch 519-004-0 for Tecumseh 33329 & many more.


   After acquiring a few second hand machines I've ended up with three dead starters.  The machines all had problems and I assumed the starters were dead from fruitless overcranking so burnt out.  On closer inspection it turned out the starters were all ok.  It was the switches that were defective.
 
   On cracking open the sealed AC housings one had a green and rotted away switch connection.  The second had a broken connector on the switch spade.  The third was defective but not opened. 
   
   The AC housing halfs are connected by 4 posts and I think glued in place.  There is gasket between the two housing pieces but no glue or sealer.  With a little more forethought and care the two can probably be opened with minimal damage. 
 
   Inside was a Cherry push button micro switch SPST normaly open.  A replacement can probably be found pretty easily.  The connectors on the swtich are spades so fitting a new switch to the AC inlet connetor would be easy if the connectors are still ok.  If not they are 10 cents and can be refitted if broken. 

   If anyone knows of a complete replacement housing please let me know.  There's probably something on the net that would be useable in this application. 
trouts2

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swiener


Joined: May 3, 2008
Points: 1

Re: Defective electric starter motor or switch?
Reply #1   May 4, 2008 12:05 am
Hey Trouts2,
 Just today I decided to tear my snowthrower start switch apart since it failed during our last heavy snow up here in Alaska.  After searching on-line for just the switch unit unsuccessfully, I pried the thing apart and discovered the malfunctioning Cherry switch.  Then I googled the part number and came up with your posting.  A little digging and I found that Cherry appears to still make the switch.  It's part number is E-13-00E.  From looking at the specs and measurements it appears to be *approximately* the same switch.  It has one extra spade connector which you can just ignore for the purpose of the snowthrower switch assembly.  Sure beats everything else I found on-line (nothing but the entire kit including motor).  I just ordered a switch from www.alliedelec.com .  Their part number for the switch is 908-1435.  The cost?  A whopping $2.74.  You may want to grab a few as it seems like that is a common failure point on these machines.  You can see the whole spec sheet here:  http://www.cherrycorp.com/english/switches/general/e_sp.htm

Good luck,

Alaska Steve
This message was modified May 4, 2008 by swiener
trouts2




Location: Marlboro MA
Joined: Dec 8, 2007
Points: 1328

Re: Defective electric starter motor or switch?
Reply #2   May 4, 2008 9:45 am
Blood Hound Alaska Steve,

   Great snooping Steve.  That does look like a suitable replacement.  I'll give it a shot. 

    I've seen a few snowblowers with kluge outlet setups for a broken switch that were farly sloppy and dangerious.  That switch with a mended housing would be much cleaner. 

    I had called Cherry tech support and was thrown off the scent so had given up on them for a sub part.  Great work.  If things work follow up with a post. If I come up with a clean repair I'll post a picture.

trouts2 

guardmyers


Joined: Mar 21, 2011
Points: 1

Re: Defective electric starter motor or switch?
Reply #3   Mar 21, 2011 10:33 am
Here I come along three years after the fact and the posting by Alaska Steve appears to be absolutely correct!  Great research!  According an e-mail that I just received from a Cherry representative, part 519-004-0 is obsolete and the closest they still make is the E-13-00E which has the extra (marked NC) terminal on one end.  Allied Electronics stocks them for $3.06.

My best advice to get the two halves of the weatherproof housing separated is to gently secure one half in a vise and (I used broad jawed channel lock style pliers) gently pry the other half away - some rocking  is required and you'll hear the plastic pins inside breaking off.  Just make sure not to break the housing in order to maintain a water-tight integrity following the repair.  You can re-secure the two halves without much difficulty as there is a gasket between them, and the mounting screws that hold the assembly to the engine should keep them held tightly together.  And you can always use some silicone, too.

Thank you!

Replies: 1 - 3 of 3View as Outline
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