Outdoor Power Equipment (Lawn Mowers, Snow Blowers, Chain Saws and more) Discussions

One of my neighbours just gave me his lightly used Sears 10/28 snowblower. He is physically unable to use it any more and was having problems with it for the last couple of years. I suspect the main problem was lack of use and old gas. The machine looks practically new and is very clean. Its in better overall shape than my machine. The only two things I've found missing are the knob on the gear shift and the bolt that holds the top of the tube that the oil dip stick goes into. The engine would not start when I got it.

I took the cowling off and low and behold, the end of the tube from the primer bulb was frayed at the carburetor end. I cut off about 1/4" and put it back on. I've bought a new tube and will replace the old one as soon as it stops snowing and the sun comes out.

The engine starts up but now surges. I've put some Sea Foam into the gas and let it run for about 10 minutes. The engine is running better and does perform better under load. It still needs work.

According to what I've read from searches on this forum and on the Tecumseh Technician's Handbook for 3 to 11HP L-Head Engines the next thing is to take apart the carburetor and clean it. I've never done a carburetor disassembly, cleaning, rebuild before so any advice on cleaning agents, things to watch out for, errors in the handbook or any other advice people would care to offer would be appreciated. I will be getting a carburetor kit from the local L&G since I'm positive gaskets and O-rings need to be replaced.

I don't have the engine serial number but will post it once the snow stops ( Thursday morning is the current prediction).

If I still have a problem then it will be time to look at the governor.

the rebuild kit is around 20 bucks,it is pretty simple,the little clip for the needle goes a certain way,the book tells you,and the little o ring with a groove on it,that also goes in a certain way,when you take off the needle and clip,there is a little o ring in there,when you get that out and cleaned the carb real good,put the new o ring in so the groove is going in so you can not see it.then re assemble,set your float 11/64ths,set the screws,1 turn out on the side,1 and a half turns out for the bottom.good luck.

Thanks for the info, any recommendations for carburetor cleaner?

nibbler wrote:

There is no substitution for physically removing the dirt.  I'm rebuilding/modifying two Mikuni VM28 carbs for my 1976 Yamaha RD400.  I soaked both carbs in low odor varsol for two days then began to disassemble and clean.  The grime on the exterior came off good but the contaminants on the inside were considerably more stubborn.  When I drifted out the needle jets, I was surprised with how much contamination there was on them.  Fortunately, I'm replacing  the needle jets, the air jets and pilot jets as part of the modification.  The best way to really clean the carb is to tear it down as much as you can, clean orifices and passages with a thin flexible wire, blow WD40 through as many orifices and passages as possible then finish off with compressed air. 

gumout works really well,but any carb cleaner is fine,like borat said,get a thin wire to get at the holes and blow air.hope this helps

OK sounds like I just need to dig out some thin copper wire and the big magnifying glass. Should be fun. Hopefully at the end of it I'll here the screaming roar of a big snow machine ( apologies to Snoopy vs the Red Baron).

Thanks

I just finished cleaning and rebuilding my two Mikunis.  Lots of little parts to clean and replace (in this case).  One picture shows the shiny new replacement parts and the not so clean original parts.  The other shot is of the 32 year old carbs all cleaned up, re-assembled and pretty much ready to go..

   

I carefully removed the carburettor, cleaned it and started to put it back on the engine. I found I was missing some bolts, don't ask how I thought I had stored them all. Went out and got some replacements only to have the head of one break off while turning it into the casting. It looks like I may have to drill it out and possibly tap the hole. Is this the correct method or is there some way of getting the machine screw out? there is a small nub sticking out.

you can maybe try using a easy out,you drill into the broken screw,put this threaded thing(the easy out)into the hole and turn it out.i find there is NOTHING easy about this.or if you have enough meat sticking out,you might try a vice grips put on very carefully and slowly try turning out,but be careful,if you use the vicegrips there is a good chance you will only get one try at it.good luck.

Is there enough clearance to get at the broken screw with a hack saw blade or possibly a thin Dremmel cutting disk?  If so, cut a thin slot in the middle of the stub (and surrounding surface if necessary).  Make it deep enough to get a flat screwdriver into it and back it out.  If you can get a slot in it, it will come out easily.

Thanks for the info.

Unfortunately the screw in question is a 6-32 x 1/2" so its kind of small to start with. I'm not sure why it broke off, it didn't feel like I was forcing it but with a screw that small I might not know my own strength.

I have used so called screw extractors before and this thing is too small for the smallest that I have. There is a bit of a nub and I do have a Dremel tool so I'll try the cut a slot technique. The only problem is the weather forecast is for freezing rain so I have to wait for sunnier times. I tried running the engine and there was no more hesitation however it did start to race at one point and the bowl seems to leak when I turn the engine off. I closed the fuel cutoff and ran the engine dry so the dripping  didn't occur but I have a hunch I have to open it up and look at the float and inlet valve assembly.

This sure is a learning experience.