Outdoor Power Equipment (Lawn Mowers, Snow Blowers, Chain Saws and more) Discussions

Hi All,

Let's me first start by saying I'm a moron, who is only minimally mechanically inclined.  I can handle basic repair jobs, but please use small words in your suggestions to me.

That being said, I purchased a used Ariens 824 this past month.  It's got a bit of rust but the things starts on the first pull, and the gear systems seem to be in fine working order.  However, I had the chance to use it for the first time this week (we finally got snow) and while it does pick up and throw the snow, it only throws it a few feet.  So it ends up having to rethrow the very snow I blew from the driveway a few feet over.  I know enough about machines like this to realize that something is definitely not right here.  Especially when I hear some of you folks talk about this machine throwing 40' !!

Can any of you offer suggestions on how to resolve this issue?

Thanks!

-Ron in Michigan

The above statement is correct, however if the shear pin was gone the big, helical auger would hardly move at all. Deep inside there is an impeller that would continue to spin quite well (hence the '2-stage' snowblower). The auger feeds it in and the impeller slings it away.

Another, and I think more likely problem, is that the belts are old or slipping. When they get old the may look ok (the auger and the impeller spin) but under load they slip and do not send the snow very far. I let mine go for 5 years w/o replacing them.

I had what appears to be your same exact problem and this solved it.

Can a moron like me replace the belts without wrecking my machine?  How many belts are we talking about?

If you go to the Ariens website and if you have your model& serial no you can download the service manual that explains the procedure. If not, send it out and have belts replaced. Maybe $150 or so?

Inspect for broken shear pins first.   I've seen augers with broken shear pins turn on the shaft with no load then stop as soon as you hit snow.  If the pins are OK, try doing the adjustment first.  As far as replacing the belts,the traction (wheel) drive belt seldom if ever needs changing.  I've never changed a traction drive belt in twenty years of snow thrower ownership/operation.   If you can read and follow the instructions, you can change an auger belt provided you have the tools to do the job. 

P.S.  Don't be so down on yourself.  Go to a box store and have a look at the quality of personnel they have assembling the machines.   Marlin Perkins could have done an episode or two there.   

First check the belts.  Some adjust- some need a stronger spring- you'll need a picture or a model number for guidance there.

If it is old enough they are simple as pie to replace- [my mid 70's machine it is 3 bolts, 10 minutes, and no adjusting] 

Then be sure all parts are lubed- grease the auger shaft & impeller bearing if you can get to it.       

Be sure shear pins are not sheared.     

Spray chute & housing with pam spray, wd40 or something to help the snow slip past at least until you knock all the rust off.

Then, after you've decided the machine runs well, and you've done everything else- take the plunge and install one of the impeller kits.  Plan on it taking a day.  Go slow, and hope you get some snow to play in after you've installed them.

I Just want to say thanks to all who replied.

Sadly, the Ariens site doesn't have the ST824 operating manual still available for download.  I'll check on eBay next.  But, your posts have confirmed the likely -- that it's either a shear pin issue, or a belt issue.  Like I said, I'm a moron, but I think I can handle either of those repairs on my own.  So tomorrow, I'll take an hour away from the kids to see what I can figure out.  And hopefully I'll have the thing ready for the next snow.

Thanks again!!

-Ron in Michigan

I "rescued" and old Ariens this summer and after cleaning, lubing and adjusting, the first snow finally came. Although I looked like an idiot actrually piling snow on to my driveway to test it out, I was really disappointed. It couldn't throw the snow out of its own way. Then a significant snow came and it worked like a champ. Truly the impeller is a lot like a waterpump. It works best when full and moving snow. The type of snow and wind direction make for significant variations in impeller performance. Also make sure the deflector is adjusted to the up position. That seemed to make a difference too.  Good luck.   Rob.

 

nikonking wrote:

I eBayed a Ariens ST1032 in May, 2007.  24” 8HP, its issues weren’t insurmountable and it has been an unwavering beast since.

I would have replied earlier, though I find most forums are ancient meanderings. Rarely di I find something I know about and is also current.

The Ariens link to manuals is http://apache.ariens.com/cgibin/ctrg0005?SESSIONID=d2hgxdi3njyhhpfkf34pjr3u&site=arienss

Your numbers are commonly located between the handles on the back of the tractor. Your model is likely 9240xx. My understanding is that the serial refers to the unit number off of the production line. Mine is 000xxx, an early issue. There are over 90,00 924xxx. The auger has seperate model and serial numbers. You might find them  somewhere beneath the belt cover.

A thread I read inferred that the newest units aren’t built as well. I prefer control rods as opposed to cables. But I like the wider handle access to the engine of the newer units.

These beasts don’t like it unless they’re working. Scant amounts of snow and slushy snow don’t seem to discharge at great distances. I wait until slushy snow firms up before freezing with lower temperatures. This avoids it clogging the chute or glugging out all over the machine.

Scant amounts of snow can be dealt with at faster ground speed settings. Experiment with different throttle settings also.

Ground speed control can help in other aspects. I readjusted my speed control for a creeper 1^st and faster reverse. The creeper 1^st is to maintain slow steady force against a foot or more of stout snow. Also good for chewing up snow piles and snow drifts.

I do 5 neighboring properties and hit some leaves that were hidden by the snow. Immediately, the auger wasn’t discharging normally. I decided to replace both belts as they are in the same location and undoubtedly old.

1. Drain or remove the gas tank. (As needed)

2. Remove the topside belt cover (2, 3/8” bolts) Black or white plastic cover right in front of the engine.

3. Remove one bolt and loosen the other bolt of the sheave/belt guard and pivot aside (2, ½”? bolts) (Removing the starboard bolt worked best for me)

4. Remove both belts idler wheels. Good memory or a digital camera helps to reassemble them correctly. A thin bicycle wrench can help too.

5. Stand the unit up on top of the auger mouth. This is a standard service position.

6. Remove bottom inspection cover (4, ½” bolts)

7. Remove auger belt first (A 3^rd hand or a spring clamp are useful to relieve pulley brake pressure with the hand lever)

During reassembly, a sheet of plastic is handy to avoid getting the new auger belt against the greasy gear/chain.

Belts must be massaged into position with the drive belt going in first.

Don’t listen to your Ariens dealer at $40 for belts. Go to an auto parts dealer.

924050 – Drive 07206600 3/8” x 33½” 265-999 (Auto part# L334)

924050 – Auger 07208600 ½” x 40” 248-040 (Auto Part# L439)

The drive belt I ended up with is 34” long and works fine.

When done oil and grease anything inside of the tractor that the manual indicates. A grease gun is necessary for the zerk fittings.

Reassemble covers, idler pulleys and sheave/belt guard. (In their proper order)

Check engine oil level after procedure, some might have leaked out. Wait for oil to settle first.

The manual states that it takes 15 minutes of running before the belts break in. It took longer for me. I haven’t had to adjust the belts yet. About 15 hours of run time so far.

It’s a little creepy at first as the belts do not fully disengage.  Be careful and no kids around.

I also replaced the original charging system with a dual alternator. That’s a lot more involved. I joke that I can have a cup warmer, stereo or cigarette lighter with the extra line.

Its next big project is to tear it apart, media blast or electrolytically remove the rust and then paint or powdercoat it.

http://www3.telus.net/public/aschoepp/electrolyticrust.html

 I am a newbie here, not with a wrench. I don't know how often I will check back. I don't know enough about the site to navigate it well.

Regards,

merl

Same here, my 926 is going on 7 years old. Used to throw across the yard, then it just dribbled out the chute. Belt was slipping. I adjusted the Attachment Belt Idler and it got me through. It's a temp solution, though, until I can get a pro to look at it.

In snow like we just had (Blizzard) a good running 8HP 824 should throw 30+ ft.And if the snow is really wet maybe half that.And yes belts slipping can really cause problems.One of the main things is is the motor set to run at max rpm which is 3600? I have found unless your running a tach or the motor has been set up with a tach ? You can very easily be running under that.My 824 was set at 3250 so running at 3600 can make a good sized differance in power.I have a 1968 ariens 6hp and that one also ran about 3200 from the factory.Both machines running at full power are strong  performers for old tech machines.Although i do only run at max rpm when needed and for short periods.The little 6hp did great  in all that snow to and is a original unrebuilt engine and had no problem throwing 20+ feet to the top of the bucket.With both machine most of the time i average around 3100 or 3200 working rpm.Although it nice to no i can run max power when needed.I have found the best think to do is install tachs on both machines.