Hi All,
Let's me first start by saying I'm a moron, who is only minimally mechanically inclined. I can handle basic repair jobs, but please use small words in your suggestions to me.
That being said, I purchased a used Ariens 824 this past month. It's got a bit of rust but the things starts on the first pull, and the gear systems seem to be in fine working order. However, I had the chance to use it for the first time this week (we finally got snow) and while it does pick up and throw the snow, it only throws it a few feet. So it ends up having to rethrow the very snow I blew from the driveway a few feet over. I know enough about machines like this to realize that something is definitely not right here. Especially when I hear some of you folks talk about this machine throwing 40' !!
Can any of you offer suggestions on how to resolve this issue?
Thanks!
-Ron in Michigan
I eBayed a Ariens ST1032 in May, 2007. 24” 8HP, its issues weren’t insurmountable and it has been an unwavering beast since.
I would have replied earlier, though I find most forums are ancient meanderings. Rarely di I find something I know about and is also current.
The Ariens link to manuals is http://apache.ariens.com/cgibin/ctrg0005?SESSIONID=d2hgxdi3njyhhpfkf34pjr3u&site=arienss
Your numbers are commonly located between the handles on the back of the tractor. Your model is likely 9240xx. My understanding is that the serial refers to the unit number off of the production line. Mine is 000xxx, an early issue. There are over 90,00 924xxx. The auger has seperate model and serial numbers. You might find them somewhere beneath the belt cover.
A thread I read inferred that the newest units aren’t built as well. I prefer control rods as opposed to cables. But I like the wider handle access to the engine of the newer units.
These beasts don’t like it unless they’re working. Scant amounts of snow and slushy snow don’t seem to discharge at great distances. I wait until slushy snow firms up before freezing with lower temperatures. This avoids it clogging the chute or glugging out all over the machine.
Scant amounts of snow can be dealt with at faster ground speed settings. Experiment with different throttle settings also.
Ground speed control can help in other aspects. I readjusted my speed control for a creeper 1st and faster reverse. The creeper 1st is to maintain slow steady force against a foot or more of stout snow. Also good for chewing up snow piles and snow drifts.
I do 5 neighboring properties and hit some leaves that were hidden by the snow. Immediately, the auger wasn’t discharging normally. I decided to replace both belts as they are in the same location and undoubtedly old.
1. Drain or remove the gas tank. (As needed)
2. Remove the topside belt cover (2, 3/8” bolts) Black or white plastic cover right in front of the engine.
3. Remove one bolt and loosen the other bolt of the sheave/belt guard and pivot aside (2, ˝”? bolts) (Removing the starboard bolt worked best for me)
4. Remove both belts idler wheels. Good memory or a digital camera helps to reassemble them correctly. A thin bicycle wrench can help too.
5. Stand the unit up on top of the auger mouth. This is a standard service position.
6. Remove bottom inspection cover (4, ˝” bolts)
7. Remove auger belt first (A 3rd hand or a spring clamp are useful to relieve pulley brake pressure with the hand lever)
During reassembly, a sheet of plastic is handy to avoid getting the new auger belt against the greasy gear/chain.
Belts must be massaged into position with the drive belt going in first.
Don’t listen to your Ariens dealer at $40 for belts. Go to an auto parts dealer.
924050 – Drive 07206600 3/8” x 33˝” 265-999 (Auto part# L334)
924050 – Auger 07208600 ˝” x 40” 248-040 (Auto Part# L439)
The drive belt I ended up with is 34” long and works fine.
When done oil and grease anything inside of the tractor that the manual indicates. A grease gun is necessary for the zerk fittings.
Reassemble covers, idler pulleys and sheave/belt guard. (In their proper order)
Check engine oil level after procedure, some might have leaked out. Wait for oil to settle first.
The manual states that it takes 15 minutes of running before the belts break in. It took longer for me. I haven’t had to adjust the belts yet. About 15 hours of run time so far.
It’s a little creepy at first as the belts do not fully disengage. Be careful and no kids around.
I also replaced the original charging system with a dual alternator. That’s a lot more involved. I joke that I can have a cup warmer, stereo or cigarette lighter with the extra line.
Its next big project is to tear it apart, media blast or electrolytically remove the rust and then paint or powdercoat it.
http://www3.telus.net/public/aschoepp/electrolyticrust.html
I am a newbie here, not with a wrench. I don't know how often I will check back. I don't know enough about the site to navigate it well.
Regards,
merl
