Outdoor Power Equipment (Lawn Mowers, Snow Blowers, Chain Saws and more) Discussions

Hi All,

New here (first post) but have been reading on this site for a few years and appreciate all of the knowledgeable info from all of you. Thanks!

I had a Simplicity 555 snow thrower for seven years but it was way underpowered (5 HP), and I am pushing 50 with a bad back, so I decided to buy a new one with more power. I live in NJ and have a big driveway along with a sidewalk that is 150' long, . Also, the bus stop for the kids is on my driveway so it is important to me to make sure it it clean and safe. Well, tonight I bought a new Simplicity Signature Pro model 10524 from a dealer in Princeton. The dealer told me it was last year's model and would sell it to me for last years price for 1650.00, which I paid. But when I got home and looked at the receipt, I noticed the model was a 10524P, not P10524E as in last years brochure. On top of that, the 2008 model is P1524E.

Anyone know what the 10524P year is and did I get a bad deal? I didn't want to buy something brand new if it's a two year old model.

Thanks for your help in advance.

North of Syracuse, right on the edge of the snowbelt.

Last year the weather channel showed up when just north west of us by 8 miles got 10' in one week! That mess missed us, we only got 5' that week.

DonMac wrote:

Don - I'd be interested in possibly buying your old Simplicity if you still have it!................ DI

DonMac wrote:

Thanks bud.  " Ingenious" is a little over the top.  But hey, I'll take it.  The reason I went with the liner was to minimize the effect of e.o.d. snow mixed with copious amounts of salt and gravel blasting the paint from the inside of the chute and the top of the deflector.  I've noticed that older machines with the paint worn off the steel inside of chutes have a problem with wet snow sticking to them.  This plastic is made for winter conditions, is very slick and should last for a few seasons I hope.  This is the first time I've done this.  The next one should be much easier to make because if the first one wears out, I can flatten it and use it as a template to make another one.  We'll just have to see how long it lasts. 

Hell, Borat u could mass produce and sell a kit ala Clarence.

Clarence lives on the opposite end of Lake Superior from me.  If the lake freezes right over (it seldom does any more), he and I could snow blow a path half way across and meet in the middle.    Maybe have a coffee and see if he wants to market my idea. 

I just bought the same Simplicity (1524) in November. Prior to the record setting warm spell and January tornadoes we've had here in southeastern Wisconsin, I even had several chances to test it out. It's been a great machine. It shipped with a minor defect in the free-hand control that was promptly fixed by my excellent local dealer. My question: Does anyone know why you're supposed to stop the drive on Simplicity's PRO machines before changing speeds? It hasn't been an issue and I don't expect it to be... just curious.<BR>

mfduffy wrote:

The drive disk is in contact with the friction wheel when the unit is moving forward. If you shift gears in this configuration you will probably cause undue wear.I also believe the unit would lurch forward if upshifted or you would bump into it if downshifted when moving forward.

Marc

Wow, did not know this. I thought it was real slick how I could change gears so fast on the fly.
I guess I ought to read the manual now.

Thanks for the reply on my speed selector question.  I've got new one -- Now that winter has really hit and we're consistently in sub-freezing and sub-zero temps, I have problem with the EZ Turn freezing up on me.  Sometimes it sticks open and I'm left with only 1-wheel traction.  Twice, it's been so bad I can't even pull the trigger.  The dealer suggested I remove the bottom panel and spray down the linkage with white lithium grease.  I did that and it was fine... for a day.  After I used it again last night, I've got the same issue today.  It almost seems like water has gotten into the cable and is freezing the cable itself.  Any ideas?  Anyone had this problem and somehow eliminated it?  Thanks.

If you think it's the cable, you should try to get some WD-40 into it.  It will help displace water and will lube the cable.  You should disconnect the cable at the top, hold it vertical and put the WD-40 into it.  It's advisable to put some sort of device at the top to funnel the lube into the cable.  Some fill a balloon with an oz. or so of lube, pull it over the end of the cable, tie it off good and tight then invert it.  Leave the cable in the vertical position until you see that the contents have emptied into it.  I suspect however, that the problem is down at the drive coupling.  It's a rather simple device that appears to create resistance during cold weather primarily due to the type of lubrication involved.  If the area of the shaft that the coupler operates on is covered in a grease that is not suitable for cold weather, the parts will be very sluggish to respond to input from the cable.  I would suggest that the shaft be lubricated with synthetic motor oil and only the engagement teeth be lubed with grease.