Outdoor Power Equipment (Lawn Mowers, Snow Blowers, Chain Saws and more) Discussions

Hi All,

New here (first post) but have been reading on this site for a few years and appreciate all of the knowledgeable info from all of you. Thanks!

I had a Simplicity 555 snow thrower for seven years but it was way underpowered (5 HP), and I am pushing 50 with a bad back, so I decided to buy a new one with more power. I live in NJ and have a big driveway along with a sidewalk that is 150' long, . Also, the bus stop for the kids is on my driveway so it is important to me to make sure it it clean and safe. Well, tonight I bought a new Simplicity Signature Pro model 10524 from a dealer in Princeton. The dealer told me it was last year's model and would sell it to me for last years price for 1650.00, which I paid. But when I got home and looked at the receipt, I noticed the model was a 10524P, not P10524E as in last years brochure. On top of that, the 2008 model is P1524E.

Anyone know what the 10524P year is and did I get a bad deal? I didn't want to buy something brand new if it's a two year old model.

Thanks for your help in advance.

DonMac wrote:

My machine had two holes at the forward edge on the bottom of the chute.  I used those two holes and the bolt that is used to control the deflector on the top right side.  Before I tried to install the piece, I cut  approx. 18" across the piece of Wacky Karpet and folded it evenly across a piece of 2x4.  Using clamps and a propane torch, I warmed up the bends on each side of the 2x4 to get the plastic to conform to the shape.  I left it like that overnight and the next morning, it was much easier to work into the chute.  I fit the bottom so that it squeezed between the chute and the circular discharge hole collar.  There's lots of room in there and the plastic should drop in about 1/2 an inch.  Once I had it in there, I forced the plastic into the chute as far as I could get it.  The piece of 2x4 came  in handy for temporarily pressing the plastic into the chute while I used vice grips and clamps to hold the plastic in place.  Use a piece of cloth on the painted side when clamping so you don't damage the paint.  Once you have the piece in place, draw lines down the sides to shape it to match the chute and cut with scissors.  While you have it in there, mark the holes at the bottom and top of the chute.  I used a heated nail to melt through the plastic while I had it in place.  The top hole has a carriage bolt with a square shoulder.  I had a similar bolt of the same size, heated it and used that to melt a square into the plastic for that hole.  A square hole will ensure the bolt goes through the deflector control slot nice and straight.   Note that you will only need the three points to secure the liner if you have it properly fitted.  In addition to the small stainless steel bolts I used at the bottom of the chute, I made some plastic washers out of the same material.  I heated a short piece of 1/2 copper pipe and used it as a cookie cutter to cut out the washer blanks and melted a hole in the middle of them.   I used a piece of one inch copper pipe to make a big washer to put next to the lock nut for the deflector control bolt.  In addition to this modification, I riveted a 1/32" thick piece of stainless plate to the underside of the top of the deflector.  SS is pretty hard stuff and the piece I put in is already showing some scuffs with only 7 hours on the machine.  This might sound like a lot of work but it wasn't that bad.  Just make sure to fit the liner in good and tight to the bottom collar and after putting in the fasteners, it should stay there.   I used black plastic as a liner and the fit went so well, it looks factory. 

Just got delivered today.

It has MUCH more power than my 8hp Ariens ever did!
Not sure you would ever see me waxing my snow thrower, but I have friend that does his.
It is a great machine. We get some where north of 150"/year, so I will get plenty of time to figure out its weak spots.

Borat, Absolutely ingenious! You obviously are a great innovator! Thanks for that detailed reply.

Tubby, Where do you live to get 150" of snow a year?

North of Syracuse, right on the edge of the snowbelt.

Last year the weather channel showed up when just north west of us by 8 miles got 10' in one week! That mess missed us, we only got 5' that week.

DonMac wrote:

Don - I'd be interested in possibly buying your old Simplicity if you still have it!................ DI

DonMac wrote:

Thanks bud.  " Ingenious" is a little over the top.  But hey, I'll take it.  The reason I went with the liner was to minimize the effect of e.o.d. snow mixed with copious amounts of salt and gravel blasting the paint from the inside of the chute and the top of the deflector.  I've noticed that older machines with the paint worn off the steel inside of chutes have a problem with wet snow sticking to them.  This plastic is made for winter conditions, is very slick and should last for a few seasons I hope.  This is the first time I've done this.  The next one should be much easier to make because if the first one wears out, I can flatten it and use it as a template to make another one.  We'll just have to see how long it lasts. 

Hell, Borat u could mass produce and sell a kit ala Clarence.

Clarence lives on the opposite end of Lake Superior from me.  If the lake freezes right over (it seldom does any more), he and I could snow blow a path half way across and meet in the middle.    Maybe have a coffee and see if he wants to market my idea. 

I just bought the same Simplicity (1524) in November. Prior to the record setting warm spell and January tornadoes we've had here in southeastern Wisconsin, I even had several chances to test it out. It's been a great machine. It shipped with a minor defect in the free-hand control that was promptly fixed by my excellent local dealer. My question: Does anyone know why you're supposed to stop the drive on Simplicity's PRO machines before changing speeds? It hasn't been an issue and I don't expect it to be... just curious.<BR>

mfduffy wrote:

The drive disk is in contact with the friction wheel when the unit is moving forward. If you shift gears in this configuration you will probably cause undue wear.I also believe the unit would lurch forward if upshifted or you would bump into it if downshifted when moving forward.

Marc