Outdoor Power Equipment (Lawn Mowers, Snow Blowers, Chain Saws and more) Discussions

Hi Everyone:

Have a Simplicity Snowblower, 4 years old w/ 10hp Briggs OHV engine. 1st 2 years everything ran great. Mid-season last year (3rd year) the engine started to idle/run rough, stalled under load. Local OPE dealer examined the unit and said carb dirty, had to rejet, adjusted to run leaner. Used the machine 2-3 times afterwards and it ran like new again.

Used the unit for only the second time this year about 2 weeks ago. Same problem all over again with somewhat rough running/idle and stalling under load. Stored the unit over the past seaason with Stabil in gas and run it with gas with Satbil in it (put in when gas purchased late last fall).

Any thoughts on what I'm doing wrong. Not experienced with engine work, carb cleaning. etc, but can turn a wrench. Is this tough to do for an inexperienced DIYer, or shoudl I just shell out another $100 for repair and pickup/delivery ? (although it's getting expensive).

Thanks in advance.

Fran

scarp,

If you have Ethanol in your fuel, ethanol has a great huge affinity for attracting water!!

Drain your fuel tank and carb, put in fresh fuel with some Stabil and dry gas.

Make sure the dry gas is Isopropyl alcohol!

Hope that will solve your problem.

Fred

The B&S engine has a fuel cutoff valve, turn it off and let the engine run dry when you are finished clearing snow. Don't forget to turn the throttle down and remove the ignition key once the engine dies.

At the end of the season drain the tank and then let the engine run it dry. Using the Stabil for at least the last tank of the season is a good idea. I try to get gas in containers that are small enough so that I get fresh stuff at least once a month. I use Pri-G which is supposed to revitalize as well as stabilize but I think the main thing if to drain and run the engine dry at the end of the season.

Hi Guys!
I now leave the fuel system drained at the end of the season.It is easier to do on a Tecumseh than a Briggs because the Tecumseh has the little spring loaded bowl drain.I find it important to get all the fuel out of both the tank and the carb. At the beginning of the following season I also spray a few shots of SeaFoam into the intake with the engine at full throttle.The SeaFoam works wonders on the carb.I also run SeaFoam in my fuel along with Stabil.

I used to leave stabilized fuel in my machines from season to season but ever since the MTBE additive was replaced with alcohol the winter gas is really like a sponge in terms of absorbing moisture.I believe it is this moisture that wreaks havoc with the carbs. I also turn the fuel valve off between uses and then run the carb dry so as to leave no fuel in the bowl at all.

My procedures may seem a little obsessive but I haven't had any carb related issues in my ope.

Marc

I've heard that two different things can happen:

1. Moisture is abosobed, degrading the fuel and causing corrosion; and
2. The volatiles is the gas evaporate ( that's why they're call "volatile" ) and leave a gummy residue in the carburetor. Some people say carburetor cleaner will fix, others say a rebuild is needed. It probably depends on how bad / old the unit is. The fule also degrades due to the evaporation.

It seems the best solution for any gas engine that is going to be stored for more than a month, is to empty the gas out, run it dry and put fresh gas in when you are going to use it again. I like to make sure the last tank at least has a stabilzer in it so that if I don't get everything dry at least I've upped the chances of the leftovers staying "good". I've also heard that if you are going to leave it with fuel, fill the tank up so you have less air moving in and out due to temperature changes.