Outdoor Power Equipment (Lawn Mowers, Snow Blowers, Chain Saws and more) Discussions

Take pity upon me. I've been lurking here, and I'm looking for some suggestions on a snowblower.

I've narrowed it down to four snowblowers (all around $900 to $1,000):

Cub Cadet, 10 hp, Tecumseh L-head, 28-inch

Husqvarna, 10.5 hp, Tecumseh OHV, 30-inch

Craftsman, 10.5 hp, Briggs OHV, 30-inch

Arien, 9 hp, Tecumseh L-head, 26-inch

The Husq and the Craftsman look to me to be made by the same manufacturers. The Sears guy told me that theirs is made by Murray. Yikes! I actually prefer the first three for ease of use. Of course, I'm aware of the Ariens reputation, though the 9-hp model isn't overly impressive.

Any thoughts? (My driveway is 25 by 50, and I live in Maine. Snowfally can be heavy, but the worst part is the pile at the end of the driveway that's caused by the snow plow!)

Thanks,

David

dsharp wrote:

The Ariens XS style gearbox (Aluminum and Cast Iron styles) is easily the equal to the Toro, and in some ways better (although the Toro gearbox is of good robust design). I can elaborate if you wish.

I don't really agree with their "so strong it doesn't even need shear bolts" propaganda though. That's like removing the seat belts from a Ford Excusrion just becuase it's so big.

PK

Nice spelling I have there. "Excusrion" and "Becuase". Moderators, where's the ever so helpful edit button?

Thanks Snowman, Jubol, Cleblanc et al:

The deed is done: I got more snowblower than I need, at least I hope that's the case. Got the Ariens ST11528LE from the local dealer. Same price as at the big box, but with free setup and delivery, along with a $98 warranty extension. That makes five years total and the dealer will retrieve it if there's a problem; furthermore, the dealer will send a snow plow if it snows while it's in the shop. Pretty nice.

I know the pro-level is better, but I think the aluminum box will work. The service manager says the alminum box has brass bushings compared to bearings in the pro models. But he says he has seen the brass bushings work 30 years with proper maintenance. (Snowman, does this sound right?) In fact, he told me this will be the last snow blower I buy if I take care of it. I'm only 40, so this was a little disturbing. I hope he means it'll last 60 years ;)

Cleblanc: I'd be interested in hearing your experience with the Toro. I like it a lot -- it's lighter and more maneurable even without the triggers. One reason I decided on the Ariens is that they seemed to be the preferred equipment in Maine. I think it'll have decent resale if I get relocated.

Thanks again

David

 

One final thought: I fired up the 11.5 OHV Tecumseh in the parking lot. It's like any other snow blower engine -- it's loud as heck! I didn't notice any difference in sound compared to my neighbor's Ariens L-head... People hoping for a quiet engine shouldn't get their hopes up with the Tecumseh OHV,  IMHO

dsharp wrote:
I read the same thing about OHV being "quieter". I didn't notice a difference, they were all loud. I always wear at least ear muffs and almost always have plugs in as well. Damage to ears accumulates so you need to save them all the time.

Interesting side note. I to a rock concert and wore ear plugs. I tried taking them out once or twice and found that I could hear the music and the singing better with the plugs in, the group sounded better with the volume turned "down"..

dsharp wrote:

David,

The internals of the XS Aluminum gearcase are the same as the current Pro Cast Iron gearcase (although the Pro has the superior cast iron & carbon steel housing). The former revision of the Pro Cast Iron gearbox (the one without the Ariens logo on the front) had a pair of tapered roller bearings on the input shaft (924,XXX series units). These were unnecessary as they worked no better (or longer) than the current PM bearings and thrust collars. Wet sump/oil bath applications for PM bearings (bronze bushings) are hard to beat because of the hydrodynamic effects of leaching oil. The XS style gearboxes were designed to eclipse all others in robustness and benchmarked against the top competitive design . It will outlive the rest of the unit as long as it remains properly lubricated.

PK

Thanks for your response. I now feel even better about the purchase.  I've already checked out the part of the owners manual about changing the crank case lubrication. I think I can handle that. Too bad the warranty on the Tecumseh isn't as good as the overall machine warranty! Looks like two years? Oh well, it should last a long time as well with regular maintenance.

The beast was delivered today. Now I've got to clean some toys out of the garage to make room for it!

Happy election eve...

David

dsharp..

Nice purchase! You are going to be be amazed at the power of your machine!

I have an older 2003 1128DLE 12vdc model and love it! The newer machines are even more convenient with the trigger wheel lock, self-contained drift breakers, halogen light and the "quick stick" chute control. Even the drift breakers were optional when I bought my machine.

I recently moved into a very windy part of NE PA and realized the weight kit that I purchased 2 years ago will work as a counter balance for a protective cab. I am going to order one from my dealer as soon as I can confirm the correct Arien's part number.

These machines make you look forward to Winter. Good luck!!!

dsharp wrote:

David,

The engine does carry the 3 year warranty.

The gear case filler screw should be re-sealed with a generous amount of thread sealant each time it is removed. Be sure not to cross thread it when re-installing (it is a thread rolling screw). 

Also, don't lose any sleep about service lubrication unless you see evidence of leakage or a damaged casting. There's a good deal of gear lube inside (8 to 8.5 ounces). There'd need to be a very apparent leakage to lose enough lube to damage the gearbox under operation.

PK

PK:

Let me tap your font of information one more time  The instructions don't mention draining the gear case; just topping it off? Once you take the plug out, it seems to me you're going to lose most of it anyway (because the unit is in teh service position). Do you top it or drain it, or will it become obvious once I try it?

Looks like I'm going for a record here on the replies.

Tnx again