Outdoor Power Equipment (Lawn Mowers, Snow Blowers, Chain Saws and more) Discussions

I called Ariens about my 1970 manufacture Sno Throw. The front part is 10995 and the back, "tractor" section is either #10942 or #10954.

I'm going to order the service manual for it, but was curious about the drive system. It has 4 speeds forward and one reverse. The forward speeds seem quite "direct" while reverse has some slippage built in and you can stop it readily.

I've read about the friction disk system, but this doesn't seem to have one? Not sure what I'm looking at in the exploded view (I'm spoiled with 3D solid modeling).

Also, are replacement decals available for this vintage of machine?

Finally, I have new skids (two sided) and they seem to be a slightly different orange, possibly because of the effects of 35 years aging. Does the dealer sell spray paint, or can I match it from another brand of  spray can?

TIA

Fred-

That paint doesn't look that bad.  Wait until I post before and after pix of my '88. 

The "connecting brackets" are just short (maybe 4" -6" long, I can't remember) rods with a 90 degree bend in them- they are cotter-pinned into brackets inside the housing.  There is one on each side.  When you remove these "brackets", the drive assembly should kind of just rotate down and towards the back of the machine. 

I couldn't see them in the pix you posted.  I don't think the early 70's drives were all that different, but you may not have them.  When I originally was working on my '74, I couldn't see how to get at those 4 little nuts holding the bearings in- once I disconnected these brackets, access was great.  

Let me know if you need any help- like I mentioned before, the manual can be a little confusing.  I can take some pix, but I have never gotten around to figuring out how to post them.  I can PM them to you if you want. 

Good Luck.

Ralph

My motor came in today. It's marked 7.75 hp - ?

Of course, now that I'm committed to  this project I won an older  Ariens 824 with three year old engine  for $227 on eBay....

I got the manual today.  A 1970 5 hp tractor is model #10965 and the prcedure is different:

1. Remove bottom cover.
2. Remove  connecting link from chain and remove train.
3. Remove left wheel
4. Remove plate on left side of frame.
5. Remove locknut on right end of hex shaft.
6. Remove the four locknuts holding the bearing flange on the left hand side of the carrier.
7. Pull the hex shaft out of the right hand bearing  and the left hand bearing out of the frame.
8. Remove hair pin from fork shaft through the slot on the right hand rear corner of the frame.
9. Hold clutch handle up and remove the fork shaft out of the right side of the frame.
10. Remove cotter pin from shaft link.
11. Remove friction wheel assembly.
12. Remove snap ring, bearing and fork from the friction wheel hub.
13. Remove the five screws holding the friction wheel to the hub.

Make sure you clean the plate that the disc rides on with brake cleaner. then i would scuff it up with fine sand paper to remove and glaze before putting it back together.

TheKneebiter wrote:
What it originally rough?

I was surprised at the difference between the old friction disk and the new one, which has a semi-circular cross-section.

no, it was always smooth. but over time it can build up a glaze that could make the tire slip. by sanding it you will make it a tad rough and give the tire a nice platter to ride on.

Got mine out last night. The disk is in pretty good shape, no real glaze but I buffed it a bit anyway.

I've taken apart the entire tractor to repaint the housing and check all the parts while I wait or the welder.. After 35 years of New England winters, most of the keys are worn and need rplacing. The earings were all in good shape. The bushings (bronze) that the axle shaft passes through were worn almost  completely through - I was pleased to see they're replaceable. The Woodruff key that locks the gear to the drive axle was also beat up a bit.

Very ruggedly built machine, overall, I'm impressed.