Vacuum Cleaners Discussions

To shampoo the carpet only, would the Avalir (based experiences with the Sentria and past Kirby models) be as effective as the X3 and/or vice-versa?

The Kirby shampooer does an excellent job. Like any piece of equipment it has a learning curve, albeit not a terribly steep one. Dirt removal is greatly enhanced by foloowing with an extractor, using plain water with white vinegar to rinse.

So an extractor is still required after the shampoo...

It works better that way. You are using less water to dissolves stains and grime, and less water to pick them up, hence a shorter drying time. I don't think the time spent is much longer, just have to use the 2nd piece of equipment. I have obtained fantastic results in this manner.

If you choose to go with a separate extractor, I'd would recommend that you go for the new Bissell BigGreen upright over the Rug Doctor. As an owner, I can vouch for how well this machine performs. It is really built solid, does a great job at removing sand and grit from the carpet knap, and carpets are dry in around an 1.5 - 2 hours. It also has a 5 year warranty. They go for $600 at Lowes, or sometimes lower on HSN. I think the Bissell is easier to use than the Rug Doctor, and leaves the carpet far less saturated than the Mighty Pack/Wide Track machines I've rented in the past.

I must preface with the fact that I have been a Kirby fan since practically birth.  Mom said I learned to walk pushing a Kirby.   With that said, I don't care for Kirby's shampoo system.  It leaves a sticky residue, it wets the carpet too much in my opinion. 

For those that use the Kirby then an extractor, that would be the best of both worlds, except it is a lot of extra work, and you still have to deal with the foam in the extractor pan.  I would just use a good extractor with a scrubbing brush and save the Kirby for what it's best at .  Deep cleaning vacuuming.

As for the Avalir, I was not aware that model had been released by Kirby yet, so am hence unable to comment on the machine itself, but past Kirbys have been long lasting, but on the expensive side.  My rule is "Never pay Retail" Never.  There is asking and what they will take price,  usually somewhere in between half.

Just,

I too learned to walk pushing a Kirby. I never cared for the shampoo system until the G series. The tank holds more solution, the suds control is a major plus.  The suds wet the carpet less than an extractor, especially if time is taken to let the brush pick up all the suds it can.  Best results are obtained when shampooing about a 4'x4' area at a time, scrubbing and picking up as you go. Once a carpet is really clean 3 pints is enough to maintain a 12' x 15' area, and approximately 50% of that is picked up in the tray. less than one gallon is needed to rinse, and about 75% of that can be recovered, so just under 4 pints, 64 ounces, are left in 180 square feet of carpet,  about 1/3 of an ounce of liquid per square foot.  The key phrases here are once the carpet is clean and maintaining. Dirty carpet takes more suds, more scrubbing and more liquid, and a longer drying time, but the Kirby followed by extraction can do an excellent job, surpassed only by the dry host system, in my opinion.

Trebor

Trebor,

Thank you for the info.  I must confess that my bias is very old as I didn't care for the Renovator on the Tradition model, haven't used it since.  Since I have the attachment for my Ultimate G, I shall one day unlatch my mind and give it another try.

Before the popularity of the "steam cleaning" machines for residential use,  I used the dry foam method.  I cleaned my carpeting w/ Kirby's rug renovator and received fine results.  The secret is to know how to do it and do it right.  If it is done correctly, there should be no problem of sticky carpeting and/or soil buildup.  The same can be said w/ the wet "steam cleaning" method.  If it is not done correctly, you can get back results.

Mike W,

    You are right in what you said about capet cleaning. The correct term about the so called steam cleaning is hot water extraction. It had been found  that real steam would damage the carpets made of synthetic fibers. One does not clean a cotton, wool, wool blend carpet with hot water extraction cleaners. Do it yourselfers have the following companies to get Shampooers that are best to use on carpets. Aerus Floor Pro, Kirby , ,and Tristar ( Aerus Floor Pro) . The Host dry powder does work but only if the people have a good cleaner to pick up the powder. Not all vacuums can clean well enough to get it out.

  When someone says a sticky residue  is left you have to ask what brand of detergent is used . Over 95% of all shampooes leave a sticky residue. Even the Steamers do. Aerus, Kirby, and Von Schrader shampooes don't leave a sticky residue.

If the pictures  that are on the U.S. Patent for Kirby is any indication of what is to come they will use  2 srushes instead of the one they have now. I find it surprising to see a power head attachment. It is logical tho tyo go where the upright can't  go like under the bed and some furniture. Interesting stuff. All patent info is 2005-2010..

                                                                                                                           Procare

Just,

When you try the G series shampooer, remember one capful of Kirby shampoo is enough, 1 and 1/3 if the water is hard. The suds have to be dry enough to foam, but wet enough to clean, and be picked up in the tray. Too dry, no cleaning, too wet, not enough pickup.
Rinsing with an extractor with plain water and vinegar greatly enhances soil and suds removal.

Anyone actually tried the Sebo DUO P machine? I noticed a video on You Tube that the machine is used before wet extraction - but it is only supposed to be used with the Duo P dry powder. I use the powder a lot - can't be done with using heavy machines to wet over a wool carpet.

Trebor wrote:
Actually, if it is "too dry", it means that it is too concentrated and will result in sticky carpeting.  This will result in quick soiling of the carpeting.  If the proper amount of solution is applied adequately, oils, soil, will be removed.  Some will enter the tray, while the remaining will be vacuumed up after the rug is dry.

vacmanuk wrote:
I have used the many different dry powders and liked the results.  What I do not like is the price tag.  Cleaning a room, or home, can be expensive.  What I have always suggested is use the powder for spot/area cleaning.  It is easy to apply and remove.  Small applications will not hurt the wallet that much.

I don't know what a professional Host service provider would charge, but I have charged 50.00/ room plus the cost of the Host, pre-spotter, and machine rental and never had anyone complain. They are pleased at the look and feel pf the carpet, no worry about rust or wood stains, and no downtime. It's worth a little more.  We now have a Host provider in town. I think they will make their presence known in market share.

Mike_W wrote:
I would not want to vacuum a whole house with an oreck if I used a dry powder.

HARDSELL wrote:

My ORECK XL works like a charm on dry powder.  Not so my dyson DC07.  Terrible.  Left more behind than it picked up. 

Carmine D.

Mike_W wrote:
Interesting.. well, here's a question - open to anyone of course - is there a dry powder treatment on the market that can be watered down, either used dry or wet, thus giving it more versatility?

CarmineD wrote:
You surely put that DC07 thru the wringer both times you used it.  No wonder it wore out.

HARDSELL wrote:

When the tech support line told me I had to use the attachments to clean up the dry powder on the rug and make sure I get it all, I quickly realized my DC07 pink was not made for my cleaning needs.

Carmine D.

A Sanitaire SC888 can't be beat when picking up dry clean powder.