Vacuum Cleaners Discussions

Hi,

I just won a Eureka Model 260 from Ebay. Does it take the regular round eureka belt? Also does anyone know what amp motor is in it and are new ones available. Even a higher amp motor? This is a two speed automatic with a green bag and white trim with gold around the light. Any info on this model would be appreciated. Some additional questions, I would like to try and restore this to be a daily driver.

The brush roll has the square ends. Would a vibra groomer II with square ends work?

Would the new sanitaire wheels that are readily available work on this model?

The bag is in excellent shape according to the pictures, but may need a new gasket or gasket  ring and tube. I know these are available for sanitaires and am assuming this would work on the 260?

I purchased a new cord sleeve for a new cord (it has a hoover convertible cord on it.) I also have a new two speed switch for it.

What size motor is in this model? Are new motors available? even one with a higher amp. (must be a two speed)

Thank You for any help you can give me

Bud Mattingly

Thank You all for the information. I do understand about keeping it as original as possible. To do this, how do you sanitize the brush roll, wheels, etc?

budmattingly wrote:
Hi Bud,

My best suggestion is to do nothing.  If you mean bacteria removal, there is no actual way to fully "sanitize" a used vacuum unless you totally dismantle it and still no way to render it totally or even near germ free.  As well, there is nothing to be gained except a lot of work and possible problems. 

However, if you want to clean the machine's underside up a little . . .

If you also own a vacuum with a blower, attach the hose and crevice tool and blow away any dust, cobwebs, etc., that may be found in the recesses on the front wheels. Use a natural bristle brush or even a clean paint brush  to get into wheel recesses.  Also, since you'll probably want to install a fresh drive belt,  remove the plate covering the fan chamber plus the machine's belt and brushroll and blow out the brush chamber.  You can use the brush I mentioned here as well to loosen dust that doesn't easily blow away.  This is a job better done outdoors or in a workshop.

[Please note that my not making mention of complete removal of the cleaner's wheels is totally deliberate.]  Moisten a paper towel with a little window cleaner and turn the wheels with your thumb as you use your fingers and the moistened toweling to quickly remove any foreign matter like dust or shampoo residue.  

The wooden "disturbulator" is not meant to be exposed to water.   A stiff brush with natural or plastic bristles may be helpful in dislodging adherent dust and dirt between the tufts of bristles on the brushroll.  If there is black residue that sometimes develops on a brushroll, do no more than LIGHTLY moisten a cloth or paper towel with window cleaner or a spray cleaner like Fantastik and clean it as best you can.

As far as collectibles go, clean up is a good thing only to the extent that original parts and finishes are not altered or damaged by over-cleaning.

Best,

Venson

Hi Bud:

I'm going to take a little different tact than Venson, tho I wholeheartedly agree with everything he says.

For the really bad vintage vacuums, I have a "swat" method of cleaning.  Dismantle completely and submerge the parts, even metal, in hot water in a slop sink and brush clean.  Of course, nothing electrical nor the cloth bags and paper filters.  Foam filters, rubber gaskets, even felt are fine for this type of cleaning.  But use care due to their fragility.  After these are completely clean, dry thoroughly and even use a blower/held held hair dryer. 

The bag, for example, tho zipper and still clean and in good shape, may hold odors from time and lack of use.  The swat cleaning is fine.  Keep the zipper open when submerged.  After cleaning, dry thoroughly and then again with the hair dryer.  Coat the zipper with a light amount of machine oil.  Sewing machine oil is perfect.  Work the zipper a few times and still leave open until thoroughly dry.  Clean and sanitized.  A little fragrance using an eye dropper on the F&G new paper bag and you're good to go.

I have even dismantled the HOOVER agitators and submerged in water and brushed clean to remove all the inside and outside dirt and gunk caked on for years and years.  Works fine if dried thoroughly.  I use this method too as a precursor to sand and paint, if the agitator is already rusted, as many are at times from laying in basements and garages.

Good luck.

Carmine D.

Bud
I've been using a hand Steam Cleaner on many of my parts to dislodge grime. Because the steam evaporates immediately, I believe you might be able to use it on metal parts. PM me if you want more info.
Lucky

Update on Eureka Model 260.

It's been to the vacuum shop. The throat on the inside of the bag that holds the f&g paper bags, has two small holes. The vac shop tried hot glue in one, but didn't work. My idea of taking a sanitaire coupling that has the zipper in the back isn't going to work. The bottom of the latch base is wider than the fitting on my model 260, so I cut the throat out and took it into the vac shop with my bag. They don't want to try it and I can't do it. My last resort is duct tape. What are your opinions or suggestions.

Thanks,

Bud

Hi Bud:

What options did the vacuum store owner/operator give you?

Carmine D.

Carmine their option was to

Buy a new red sanitaire bag with the bag clamp that takes the f & g bags. My bag is mint other than the 2 small holes. I wanted to buy that bag and have them use the bag clamp and fill tube on my original bag. They said it would not work...One thing is the the bag retainer on the bottom of the sanitaire bag would have to be cut down as it will not fit  in the slot on the bottom of the 260. The top of the bag clamp would work fine.

I was really hoping this would be an easy fix.....

Bud:

Someone with the right sewing machine can patch the holes in your bag as good as new.  With the right needle you could stitch by hand with some time and effort.  Seek out a shoe repair and/or a place that does clothes alteration.  Take your bag with you.  Ask if they can sew/stitch the holes and/or patch with a leather cuff.  Good luck.

Carmine D.

Hello Bud:

Don't know if you were successful, but I read an article recently and thought of you and your dilemma.  A cobbler in Miami, only 7,000 left today vice 120,000 during the Great Depression, said he fixes everything except broken relationships.  Sounds like a 1959-60's EUREKA outer bag would be an easy fix!

Carmine D.

One more question. I know everyone says to keep my 260 as close to original as possible, but while it was in for a tune up, a piece of the steel that serves as the rug plate was broken off. If I take the metal strips off, will a regular rug plate fit. Before anyone says no, I saw another 260 on ebay after mine, but I was ill at the close of that auction and didn't get to bid. It had a Eureka rugplate on it, but don't know what it took to make it work. Any info would be welcome. Thanks in advance.

Bud