Vacuum Cleaners Discussions

I am happy with my central but for some reason it has low suction and there are not any blockages and its the top of the line Beam System.  It had to be installed in the attic because thats the only place were the installers had enough space for installation, but that was the only down part of it, its not a problem going to the attic to dump the canister but why is the suction low.  I mean its has the suction of your typical run of the mill canister vacuum.  It uses 15amps of power but I may have it plugged into a lower voltage outlet.

The unit you have should be connected to a 240V outlet, not a regular 120V one.  If you do have it connected to a 120V outlet, you will only be getting half the power you should have.  Other than that, if you have had full power before, your filter might be clogged.

Vacuuman is correct.  I just checked and that Beam model is a 240 volt model.  See -- http://www.beamvac.com/usa/docs/2007_spec_sheet.pdf

But vaclov says he plugged it in.  Aren't plugs for 240 volt devices (electric dryers, air conditioners, etc.) completely different from the plugs we use for regular appliances.  I can't imagine why the installers wouldn't have told someone of the voltage deficit and if there is a voltage difference did they deliberately fit the machine with improper wiring.  What's the danger factor here?

Venson

Hi,yes vacuuman,and venson are correct,this is a 240 volt system,running it on 120 will hurt it,it will run at half speed and eventually hurt the control module and the 2, 5.7'' fan motors,have it wired correctly by an electrician.This system should bury a 160'' i.w.l meter...........

 MOLE

Central vacs and window A/C units use the same 240V outlets usually.  Mine has a plug with the 2 flat prongs turned sideways, like this one.

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=71244-334-1234-L&lpage=none

Thanks for all the quick responses guys and I figured it was the voltage but I wasn't sure, and I didn't want to call anybody until I knew what the cause likely was.  I'm calling someone out here tomorrow to change the outlet plug, there is an authorized dealer near by so hopefully they won't charge me an astronomical fee.

Hi vaclov,

This doesn't sound like merely a matter of a plug change.  You will need to have a licensed elecrician in to be sure you have a 240 volt line going up to your attic.  I strongly recommend that because whomever got the idea had no business fitting out a 240 volt machine to a 120 volt power supply.  Though I expect electrical work is expensive anywhere you go, once the job is properly done you'll be far better off.  The other solution is to consider one of the Beam 120 volt models and see if the seller is prepared to do an even-Steven swap or something to that effect.  And if he's not willing make nice -- consider calling a lawyer.

Venson

I have set up an appointment with Home Depot to have a technician to come and look into my attic to see if a 240volt line can be installed, but it will be late next week before they will able to come out and check. In the mean time I was looking at some voltage converters online but I wanted to know if it would be safe or even possible to have my vacuum running on 300 Watt Voltage Transformer temporarily.

Howdy vaclov,

Good things come to those who wait . . .  and Shakespeare says, "Heat not a furnace so hot for thy foe that thou dost singe thyself.  Run not so fast fo the mark that by running thou dost pass it."

Personally I think a transformer is most likely an unecessary expense and, in this case especially, not a good solution.  If I were in the same situation and the wait for Home Depot's guy was just a matter of a few days, I'd either use a portable vacuum if I had it around or borrow one or get something really cheap just to tide me over until the "doctor" comes.  The world won't end. 

Also, it is best  not to use the new central vac until it is properly installed.  If problems pop up that prove attributable to improper installation and improper voltage you probably will get no relief from the manufacturer as you will have voided your warranty.  There's any number of things that might -- and mind  you I said, 'might" -- happen that could lead to more problems and money spent -- from anything like central unit damage to fire hazards.  It's usually best to bow to caution when confronted with issues like this.  Let someone who's qualified come in and assess what's needed and then follow his advice to the letter.  That will help you maintain the value of your purchase and safeguard your home.

Best,

Venson

VacLov,

Re:  Home Depot contractors or others.

 

Buyer beware, all contractors are not alike.  I would consider strongly a local, reputable licensed, insured and bonded contractor.  The entire process (installation) should be a positive experience. – A fast, clean, lasting and up to code work should be expected.  My neighbor used Home Depot contractors to install kitchen cabinets – the job was pure garbage.  Garbage work is a skill many have (Home Depot or not).  Ask exactly how the job is to look (location of pipes (plumb and level), holes in/outside walls (patched and patched well?), etc.  Basically the “Golden Rule” should apply.

 

Home Depot contractor investigation by NBC4 – here.

 

DIB

P.S.  I am not saying all Home Depot work is bad or questionable, just buyer beware.

Sigh, DysonInventsBig, thats what I was trying to avoid, I already had a bad experience with my insurance company hiring a subcontractor to repair damage done by a tornado.  Now after seeing that, I'm very hesitant having a "Home Depot" employee coming into my home.  Thanks for the heads up looks like I have a lot of research to do before I get the job completed.