Vacuum Cleaners Discussions

I am happy with my central but for some reason it has low suction and there are not any blockages and its the top of the line Beam System.  It had to be installed in the attic because thats the only place were the installers had enough space for installation, but that was the only down part of it, its not a problem going to the attic to dump the canister but why is the suction low.  I mean its has the suction of your typical run of the mill canister vacuum.  It uses 15amps of power but I may have it plugged into a lower voltage outlet.

Hi Mole,

Want to ask, how fool-proof is the usual installation?  Thinking that this is a brand new unit, could there be the possibility that bad seals may be the problem.  I think I might want to assess the suction level at the unit itself.  Have the connection undone at the main inlet on the unit and test the suction level there.  If the machine is delivering as it should be have the installers go back over all points where PVC tubing joins to check for bad connections and air leaks.  People can sometimes be careless once they've got your dough.   It's often best not to write the check until the the installation is complete and a quick try-out proves satisfactory to the buyer.

Just an idea . . .

Venson

Hi Venson,the average installation time for [existing 4 or 5 valves],plumb,wire,hang,vent,up and working system should be handled in 5 to 6 hours by a person that has central vacuum background[INSTALLERS].The installation time by the handyman will take longer.You are right the system should only be paid in full when the customer is happy and the unit is working at it's best.For a 3500 sq,ft installation it should be 5 or 6 inlet valves.

Beam makes a very nice system,as long as it's matched up for the footage it's going to handle.If the machine is running where it should be at [airflow and waterlift]the problem lies with the installation of the plumbing.My advice to him is to start at the backing plates.

 MOLE

Well the thing is that I had some "experienced" vacuum installers install the vacuum in my home, and I've had work done by them before on my other vacuums with no disappointment, but I'm afraid that I might have call an authorized Beam dealer to come look at it, and hopefully they won't start trying charging me some screwy prices. I honestly think its the amperage because I have it connected to a regular outlet in the attic.

Hey Vaclov,

That could be but as long as the required voltage, usually the standard 120 volts AC, is being supplied I don't think there should be a problem.  If there was an amperage issue a circuit breaker would or should kick off because the power draw from the unit was too much for it.  Nonetheless, it's probably best just to let it sit until the doctor arrives.  By the way (blush) what's your hose length?

That should usually prove no problem either as a good central vacuum has fans bigger than those found in a household vacuum and overcomes the friction issue that would cause suction drop in an ordinary vacuum that used an overly long hose.  Nonetheless, also check your hose for damage or loose connections. 

 When all else fails, what usually works for me is screaming, "Take it back!" You won't believe the results you'll get.

Good luck,

Venson

The unit you have should be connected to a 240V outlet, not a regular 120V one.  If you do have it connected to a 120V outlet, you will only be getting half the power you should have.  Other than that, if you have had full power before, your filter might be clogged.

Vacuuman is correct.  I just checked and that Beam model is a 240 volt model.  See -- http://www.beamvac.com/usa/docs/2007_spec_sheet.pdf

But vaclov says he plugged it in.  Aren't plugs for 240 volt devices (electric dryers, air conditioners, etc.) completely different from the plugs we use for regular appliances.  I can't imagine why the installers wouldn't have told someone of the voltage deficit and if there is a voltage difference did they deliberately fit the machine with improper wiring.  What's the danger factor here?

Venson

Hi,yes vacuuman,and venson are correct,this is a 240 volt system,running it on 120 will hurt it,it will run at half speed and eventually hurt the control module and the 2, 5.7'' fan motors,have it wired correctly by an electrician.This system should bury a 160'' i.w.l meter...........

 MOLE

Central vacs and window A/C units use the same 240V outlets usually.  Mine has a plug with the 2 flat prongs turned sideways, like this one.

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=71244-334-1234-L&lpage=none

Thanks for all the quick responses guys and I figured it was the voltage but I wasn't sure, and I didn't want to call anybody until I knew what the cause likely was.  I'm calling someone out here tomorrow to change the outlet plug, there is an authorized dealer near by so hopefully they won't charge me an astronomical fee.

Hi vaclov,

This doesn't sound like merely a matter of a plug change.  You will need to have a licensed elecrician in to be sure you have a 240 volt line going up to your attic.  I strongly recommend that because whomever got the idea had no business fitting out a 240 volt machine to a 120 volt power supply.  Though I expect electrical work is expensive anywhere you go, once the job is properly done you'll be far better off.  The other solution is to consider one of the Beam 120 volt models and see if the seller is prepared to do an even-Steven swap or something to that effect.  And if he's not willing make nice -- consider calling a lawyer.

Venson