samdog

After 4 years and about 200 hours of heavy operation, the impeller bolts broke on my Toro 826OE. I never found any obstruction -- was just throwing heavy, crusty EOD when I heard a metallic crack and the impeller stopped throwing.

The stock bolt (321-44) is a grade 5, 1/4 - 20 x 1 7/8". It is a tap bolt, meaning full threaded. This bolt is not too easy to find in hardware stores (mine only had it in grade 2) but I did find a 1/4 - 20 x 2" tap bolt at the local machine shop. The bolt had gold zinc coating and came in grade 8. I got 1/4 - 20 nylon locknuts in stainless steel and was back in business. Though the grade 8 is slightly harder, I'm not too worried about that. I put some grade 5s on order.

Also picked up some extra grade 5 auger bolts in 5/16 - 18 x 2 1/4". These have 1 1/4" smooth shank and 1" threads. They require 5/16 x 1/2" spacers and 5/16 - 18 nylon locknuts.

Toro doesn't really say that the bolts will never shear. They just say that shear-pins are not needed. It was less trouble to find fairly common bolts than model specific shear pins.

^^^  Well, what I'm trying to say is that the Honda will not cut close enough to a tree or fence, because the deck material is about an inch wide. So it leaves an inch wide strip uncut around a tree.

My Yardman has a thinner metal deck that cuts right up against trees and fences.

chopper wrote:

I bought the Stihl MS250 3 years ago, after extensive research. I'm stihl (haha) very pleased with it. I just used it to clear many downed branches after this October snow. I use it mainly to make about 2 or 3 cords of firewood per winter. 

That's a good price -- I paid $329 for mine 3 years ago 

Honda HRX217HXA.

Five years now -- still starts on the first pull. One start per use -- the engine continues to run (but the blade stops) while you dump the bag.

Best feature: the variable selection Bag/Mulch lever.

Worst feature: the wide plastic deck molding keeps blade about 1 inch away when edging around a tree or fence. (Thin metal decks allow much closer edging.) 

borat wrote:

It's amazing how we like to complicate simple things made to do simple jobs.....
How many SS machines are made with lights and hand warmers?  To me, the less there is to a machine that will be working in a difficult environment, the better. 

It's obvious that the MTD handwarmers I've seen are not useful, and are merely marketing ploys (I havn't tested and can't speak to any other manufacturer's grips). 

However the heated seats in my car are excellent. Thet have 5 heat levels, and have been competely reliable going on 7 years now. They are quite enjoyable on a cold winter morning.

It should not be that hard to put  reliable, multi-stage heat elements into snowblower grips. If someone does it right, I would certainly consider it as an option and I imagine so would many others.

Regarding the OP's question:

Considering the number of yard items your machine has eaten, and the investment you already have in it; I would choose to install the larger engine, provided the auger and impeller check out OK. Perhaps you could sell the smaller engine to the shop or some small equipment guy.