racingpast

You may be better off to spring for an extra $100.00 to $150.00 & buy a new pressure washer of the same model. You can use the old one for parts. I wouldn't put $200.00+ in this machine, as any additional expense would come close to exceeding the cost of a new machine.

Sorry, I just re-read your original post... Your dealer said pull a plug in the engine & tip the machine to change the transmission hydrostatic fluid???

There seem to be some type of communications failure between you & the dealer. What ever you do, don't put that hydrostatic fluid in the crankcase!

Take my advice, get a copy of the technical manual. If you have mechanical ability, nobody will, at any price maintain you machine as well as you.  

Your mower's carburetor has a stuck float or some type of debris (rust, fuel varnish, etc) holding the float valve (sometimes called the needle) off it's seat. As, by your own admission, you are not a mechanical type person, have a trusted mechanic clean & repair your carburetor as required.

The worst case situation would require a replacement carburetor. However, if it's cost effective, a good mechanic can clean & repair a carburetor. Therefore, never trust anyone who is quick to say, without even investigating the problem  "carburetors can't be cleaned" or "it's cheaper to replace them," then wants to sell you a replacement carburetor for $50 to $100, plus a couple hours of labor.

In the meantime, check your mower for a fuel shutoff valve in the fuel line between the fuel tank & carburetor. If your machine has one, close it to stop the fuel leakage.

Also, when the engine is not running, the fuel valve should always be closed on all machines that use gravity feed fuel systems. I don't care what anyone else says on this matter. It's a safety issue, as the slightest debris or cocking of the float valve will result in a shed, garage or utility room floor full of explosive gasoline.

The problem I have seen with trail mowers is the engine is low & uncovered on most brands. Debris tends to collect on the engine causing an obstruction in the cooling air flow or It is sucked in by the engine cooling fan, chopped up by the rotating screen grid & packed into the engine cooling fins. Again, obstructing cooling air flow. Either way, the result is the same: an overheated engine, cooked engine oil, a connecting rod out the side of the block & a major failure which is not covered by warranty.

Your mower is of Honda's Masters Series & is a very good mower indeed. The engine is of the GXV Series (as opposed to the GCV Premium Residential Series), meaning it is a true commercial design. As for maintaining the mower yourself, the transmission requires very exacting service procedures & adjustments. I would not rely on any second hand advice in this area! Using a credit card, you can contact the company who publishes Honda's technical manuals (Helm, Inc., ph: (800) 292-5395 or www.helminc.com) & purchase one for yourself. By the way, the prefered oil for your engine is 10W30.