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GaryBy

Name Gary
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Date Joined Sep 27, 2008
Date Last Access Feb 6, 2009 7:07 pm
GaryBy's last  
Re: Portable Generator
#1   Jan 17, 2009 2:30 pm
Bill_H wrote:
Good info, GaryBy, Thanks!

Also FWIW, I'd check the amp draw & voltage drop when that well pump starts, as too low a voltage could damage something in the house (some motors will overheat), and too much of a draw could hurt the genny - but if you're not tripping a breaker it may not be too much current. If they're on different breakers on the genny you could draw too much without tripping any breaker. Don't forget that as voltage drops, some electrics will draw more current to obtain/maintain constant power, which only makes it worse.

I had borrowed a 5K Coleman once during a power failure here and it ran my well and furnace OK, but I never checked them at the same time the refrigerator was running. That's why I'm looking for something just a bit bigger, those 3 are the necessities, anything else is a luxury. When I first powered the house up with it - after 28 hours with no power - I shut down the breaker for the furnace and well. Once the refrigerator was up and running and the sump pump finished, I powered on the well, waited till the well pump shut down and finally put on the furnace. Furnace last because I knew there would be an oil burner and 3 circ pumps running at once - the other 2 were used later.

My recollection is that the boiler (oil burner + 2 circulating pumps) didn't seem to cause as much as a dip as the microwave, and certainly not the refrigerator.  Since we weren't running the generator 24 hours, the refrigerator really wanted to be running whenever it had power.  After a couple of days of just adapting to life without external power, I wound up toggling things at the transfer panel to reduce the chance of problems.  Fortunately, our well pump usage is fairly predictable.

Now if only we had had the deep freeze right after the ice storm.  Then I could have emptied the freezer and stored it all outside.
Re: Portable Generator
#2   Jan 16, 2009 8:04 pm
For what it's worth: We have a 5K Generac (6250 peak), and it did the job.  However, perhaps because we upgraded our well pump to 1/2 HP, we get very visible brownouts whenever the pump starts.  We use it to power the pump, the heating system (forced hot water by oil), refrigerator, microwave, smoke detectors, and one set of outlets (lights and computers).  It's not the entire house, but it's enough to keep us comfortable.  Because of the brownouts, we're looking at upgrading the generator.   Given that the generator ought to last at least ten years, I'd consider spending an extra couple of hundred to get one with more than 5KW. 

For what it's worth:  Ace Hardware carries B&S generators, though you may need to order it online and get it shipped to a nearby store.  The 6200w model, with battery start, runs $1K.
Re: Why would carb cleaner be bad?
#3   Jan 16, 2009 7:54 pm
I decided to ask this question of B&S, and got an answer back.  The answer is that the carb cleaner tends to dry out the gaskets. 

I find it interesting that they have this advice in the manual for the engine on my current generator (a ten year old Generac), but not in the manuals for the engines on their own current line of generators.
Why would carb cleaner be bad?
#4   Dec 25, 2008 11:43 am
The instructions for my current generator, as well as newer ones that I'm researching (B&S engines), all say "NEVER use engine or carburetor cleaner products in the fuel tank or permanent damage may occur".  Why would this be?

I'd planned to switch to SeaFoam instead of Sta-bil based on other threads in this forum.  Usually I put the additive directly in the can when I get back from the gas station.  But now I'm afraid of what would happen if I prep a can with SeaFoam, and then I'm forced to use it in the generator instead of the snowblower. 

Many thanks,
Gary
Re: Snared impeller
#5   Dec 22, 2008 1:51 pm
It does look as though at least one, and presumably both pins in the impeller broke.  I do see two pins, one sticking out on just one side, and the other going all the way through (but as we know, that doesn't mean it's not broken in the middle).  Also, to double check this, when I had the bottom cover off and the attachment level held down with a rubber band, I pulled on the rope.  The bottom pulleys turned, but the impeller didn't. 

On the other hand, when I opened the bottom cover, I found the broken head of a bolt along with a washer.  It's a half-inch head.  There's not enough left to reliably measure the thread count, but it seems coarse.  I think the only things it matches on the parts list are either the bolt holding one of the idler pulleys in place or else the bolt holding the big drive pulley in place.  After lunch, I'll go back and check if either of those are likely.

I'm going to call the dealer to see what they can do.  I'm not sure that replacing the pins on the impeller are a job that I should tackle.  Nor do I know whether something like this is covered by the warranty, but I suppose I should find out before I actually try to repair anything.  So far, I haven't done anything not described under maintenance, so I'm sure I haven't invalidated the warranty just by my tinkering.

Thanks,
Gary
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