DRLMN1

snowshoveler reporting for duty. i kinda let this one go thinking  that you would be running by now...however ?

DRLMN1...im a master teck for briggs and certified for the rest,so im kinda lost when you say you used a home made tester with a 6 volt battery.

im not gonna say it cant be done but your engine has magneto ignition not battery ignition.when you apply voltage to the coil you fry its internals.

the tester made by briggs is a simple thing that connects to the coil wire and to the plug or block it has a little window in it and if spark appers in it when cord is pulled then coil is okay ,if no spark present then check points and condensor which you did.if still no spark then replace coil,please note -new electronic is cheeper than old point type 

it sounds like your coil is burnt but you might have come up with some new way to test them (please explain)

your new points could have some anticorrosion material on them preventing contact,you could check with multi meter .you just need to check the wire coming from them to coil .check for continuity while turning flywheel by handand noting results with meter.

later chris

   Chris, I will try to explain the tester. It seems to work okay. I've taken a 6V lantern battery, attached two leads, one to the plus side and the other to the minus side. Solder a 6V bulb to the plus side. On the engine, make sure your points are in the open position. Attach a spark plug to the plug lead and ground it. I used alligator clips. They work good for grounding. Ground the minus side of the battery to the frame. Momentarily touch the contact point of the condensor. You should see a spark at the air gap of the plug. This is suppose to indicate the primary and secondary windings in your coil are working. It didn't fry anything. I hope I explained it good enough to understand. I did this to the magneto I thought may be bad and to a known good one. I put the one in an engine and it still works fine. Back to the other one now. I did clean the points off befores I installed them. I didn't realize it before, but this engine appears to be made up of maybe three different engines. It has a gear reduction on it also. The guy uses it on his cement mixer. In my original post I gave a model number and type. Now I'm not sure what it is. Its probably at least 30 years old. He did ask me if I could find a new one one with a gear reduction on it. Anyway when I use a multi-meter, I do get voltage at the plug lead and also the  electrode. Just can't get a spark at the air gap? I have a feeling it is a spark plug problem, althou I have tried several different ones. J19LM, J8, C8J, etc, etc. I have re-adj. and re-checked everything numerous times, and cannot find anything wrong or obvious that would cause this. It may be something simple as hell, but it sure has given me fits.