sibbs

Just thought I'd give an update as I had some time to finally build this. First thing I changed my design, rather than the engine chain dropping down to a shaft and then a lovejoy coupler to connect to the snowblower pto shaft. Instead I just cut out a large enough slat out of the snow blower unit to drop the chain to a 36 tooth gear that I put directly on the snowblower shaft. This allowed me to shorten the unit as a whole and position the 12 tooth clutch directly above the gear on the snowblower shaft. For anyone wondering about the 13 hp engine from harbor freight, seems to have plenty of power but I've only been able to test it on about 6" of fluffy snow, we haven't had a wet heavy snow yet. The auger spins quite fast and the snow was throwing a good 30 feet at 3/4 throttle. This was a fun project and good excuse to get a plasma cutter. I'll continue to make modifications, one thing I know I'll need is the ability to turn the chute from my atv seat.

I was told the pto shaft of the bolens tractor was 2000 rpms, no confirmation on that though, that's the speed of the PTO shaft from the tractor that direct connects to the snowblower shaft. if you follow the linkage on the snowblower it goes into a gear box, another shaft makes a 90 degree turn to the edge of the blower and there's a sprocket on the end of that shaft. That drives a heavy chain to a sprocket on the auger shaft. I haven't found a whole lot of information yet on that snowblower attachment or the bolens tractor, and I'm not for certain what bolens tractor it came off of, or the time frame. The snowblower attachment is one tough built heavy duty piece of metal so it has age because they don't make stuff like that anymore. My reasoning for the clutch was more from a safety perspective than performance, so I can stop it by idling down, but if I'm going to put one on I want to put one on that performs well. I hear you on needing the torque behind the rpm's. I'm hoping 13 ponies does it because that's what I've got. I guess I'll start with a middle of the road configuration with gears and clutch engagement and make adjustments if needed. general design is a tube steel frame, the horizontal shaft engine will sit behind the blower. A centrifugal clutch/sprocket on the engine shaft will be pointing toward the blower, chain will drop down to another sprocket and shaft that will connect to the snowblower shaft via lovejoy coupler. The outer frame's weight will be supported by a couple caster wheels and a winch will pivot an inner frame to raise/lower the angle of the blower.

The atv has tracks instead of tires. The blower unit is 38" and I'll add enough wing on each side of the blower unit to get past the tracks, about 7" on each side.

sorry for the formatting on this one. Basically says I have several options in that clutch, engage speeds ranging from 850 to 2000 depending on the springs in it. And drive gear teeth from 12 to 18 teeth. Here's a description of the centrifugal clutch I'm thinking about getting. With then engine max rpm's at 3600, what's the best configuration? Would I want more or less teeth on the clutch drive gear? Would I want a higher or lower speed engagement of the clutch with that single stage snow blower? Centrifugal Clutch: For up to 40 HP four stroke engines 1" bore 1 1/2" deep, 1/4" keyway, 2 set screws 5 1/4" drum outside diameter, clutch overall thickness 2 15/16" Turned steel drum for perfect runout Heat dissipating holes in the drum for cooler running clutch Three shoe design provides excellent 360 degree contact for more torque Shoe linings have a high coefficient of friction & are resistant to wear, fading & troublesome vibration Must be mounted Outboard only (bolted on the end of the crank shaft) Optional springs available to change clutch engagement RPM Clutch comes with 2000 RPM engagement, purple clutch springs Clutch with 10 teeth sprocket for #40 or #41 chain Clutch with 12 teeth sprocket for #35 chain Clutch with 13 teeth sprocket for #35 chain Clutch with 14 teeth sprocket for #35 chain Clutch with 15 teeth sprocket for #35 chain Clutch with 16 teeth sprocket for #35 chain Clutch with 17 teeth sprocket for #35 chain Clutch with 18 teeth sprocket for #35 chain Replacement parts: (one clutch uses 3 springs) Yellow clutch springs, 850 to 1000 RPM engagement, 3-per set Brown clutch springs, 1250 RPM engagement, 3-per set Red clutch springs, 1450 RPM engagement, 3-per set White clutch springs, 1650 RPM engagement, 3-per set Blue clutch springs, 1800 RPM engagement, 3-per set Purple clutch springs, 2000 RPM engagement, 3-per set Green clutch springs, 2150 RPM engagement, 3-per set Plain clutch springs, 2400 RPM engagement, 3-per set Needle bearing Shaft (that needle bearing rides on) Flat washer Snap ring Clutch shoes, three piece set Clutch drum, sprocket & needle bearing assembly

I've had a similar problem when I submarined an atv. I changed the oil a few times and still had the milky residue. A mechanic I knew mentioned filling the crank case with diesel and draining it and then give it one more oil change. That did it. The diesel bonded better with the water so it took it all out.