sc2472

Fixed the drive plate this morning. The gap between the back of the drive plate and the bearing as well as the gap between the drive pulley and bearing as shown above were too large preventing the drive plate from retracting. The drive pulley had shifted on the shaft toward the auger end and was up against the brake assembly. As the drive pulley couldn't go any further the shaft, with the drive plate firmly in place, started to shift toward the friction disc end. This created two large gaps.

Below is the photo of the drive pulley up against the brake.

Loosen the two set scews and reset the drive pulley on the shaft. Below is a photo of the drive pulley set correctly on the shaft. The woodruff key is no longer visible.

Below is a photo showing that the gap between the back of the drive plate and the bearing has been reduced. The allows the drive plate to fully retract.

With the drive plate fully retracted the friction disc is no longer tight up agaist the drive plate. Below is a photo of the gap created when the drive pulley was reset. I was now able to set the traction cable correctly.

Thank you Sean and Mike.

Sean, I used your thought that something caused the drive plate to shift toward the friction disc. With this newer model, the drive plate doesn't screw onto the shaft. So I looked further down the shaft toward the auger and discovered the drive pulley up against the brake assembly.

Mike, as the drive pulley was up against the brake ... the shaft might as well had been frozen in place. I kept it simple.

Thanks again.

Steve K.

MKD, it does help. It reminds me to kept it simple for now. After a lot of reading I know now that lubrication is very important for these machines..

Hi Geoff

http://www.abbysguide.com/ope/discussions/54909-0-1.html    I saw this thread earlier. Although similar, with the Friction Disc assembly removed my Drive Plate rotates when the engine is running. My next step is the same. I will go at the assembly from the pulley side and look for debris blocking the retraction of the Drive Plate. I need to access the Clutch Yolk for damage anyway. I was wondering if those gaps are acceptable. Am I approaching this correctly?

http://www.abbysguide.com/ope/discussions/54829-0-1.html    I had not seen this thread. I'll take a look.

Steve K.

I have a friction drive problem with my Ariens  Model 932037-724 Sno-Thro. I can not roll it when the engine is off and when the engine is running it remains in gear. The Friction Disc is tight against the Drive Plate preventing me from rolling it when shut down and keeping it in gear when running. The tension spring from clutch fork to frame is in place. I removed the Friction Disc/Hex shaft assembly and operated the traction cable to detemine free movement of Clutch Fork and Drive Plate. There is free movement. I disconnected the traction cable to determine if the Drive Plate would retract further toward the frame and it does not. My theory is that the Drive Plate is too far 'outbound' toward the Friction Disc and is not retracting completely. I do not know if the Clutch Fork is bent as I have yet to remove it and nothing to compare mine to. I would think the Clutch Fork rod ends are bound up preventing full retraction before believing I have bent the Fork.

Below is the a link (hope it works) to a photo showing the Drive Plate on top and the Drive Pulley below. Should the gap between the back of the Drive Plate and the bearing be visible? You can see that the tension spring is visible on the left.

The photo did work, allbeit large.

Next is a photo of the drive pulley. Should the Woodruff Key between the bearing and the puley be visible on the right side of the shaft? Again, is the gap excessive on the side as well?

I ask these questions because again, I believe that the Drive Plate is not fully retracting and wonder if these photos my explain the cause of the condition.

Thanks in advance. With all the searching, I like this site the best.

Steve K.