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I bought a YardMan YM26CS string trimmer used, which the prior owner had used with several trimmerplus attachments.  This is the first string timmer I ever purchased, so I can't say how well this trimmer performs versus a 2-cycle engine.  The only reason I bought this was because I got it for a good price ($20, including 4 attachments) and because I didn't want to mix oil for 2-cycle engines.

To get it working, I drained the old fuel, took-apart and cleaned the carb (lots of gunk removed with carb cleaner) and fuel tank, replaced the fuel lines, fuel filter in the tank, spark plug, changed the oil, and changed the upper shaft, as the coupler for the trimmer plus attachment had worn-out and could not operate the attachments.  Replacement parts are readily available (mail-order was much cheaper than my local dealer) and the total repairs took less than 3 hours.  Plus MTD has all of the manuals and blow-up diagrams available on-line.

The trimmer now works pretty well.  Start-up is pretty easy (remember to prime well), usually starting on the 6th pull (5 of the pulls are used for the first stage of the recommended 3-stage starting process).  I've used the trimmer on two occasions for about a total of 1.5 hours.  The first hour,  I used the string trimmer to cut through overgrown Marathon grass (grass grew to 8+ inches).  Once I figured the proper angle for trimming, it cut through the grass pretty quickly. 

I also have the Ryobi vaccum/blower which works pretty well, although the suction is pretty weak on hard surfaces (concrete) even at full throttle; it works better on picking-up clippings/leaves on grass.  Also, the angle you have to hold the vacuum to maximize suction causes gas to slosh against the cap and leak, if the tank is filled more than about 3/4.  I don't know if this a problem with the cap on my machine, or a design defect, but I'll just remember to fill-up less.   I also have the hedge trimmer, but I haven't used it yet.

MTD recommends that the valve-lash be checked every 25 hours of use, which is pretty easy to do.  On my trimmer, one of the valves had excess play, which I adjusted before my first use, but I recently noticed a clacking noise at WOT, so I'll have to adjust it again.  I hope this is not a recurring problem.

All in all, I'm pretty satisifed even after investing another $50 for parts.  This machine is more than adequate for my needs (3000 sq. ft. of grass).  I do have concerns about the longevity of the upper shaft, but I expect that attachments which do not heavily stress the coupling, such as the trimmer, blower/vacuum, or dedicated edger, would be OK.  I would not use the tiller attachment if you want to maximize the life of the upper shaft.

 Believe it or not, I was on my way to the local Home Depot to buy a new mower when the neighbor offered the mower.  The decision between dropping $300 for the new mower or taking the old mower was pretty easy.   I just wish I knew about the transmission from the start, but since the engine wasn't running when I got it.

At this point, I'll probably re-route the cable or try to devise a new clamp for the cable end at the transmission to remove as much slack as possible.  Thanks for the sage advice and insight.

I don't mean to sound like an ingrate for your advice--to the contrary, I very much appreciate your observations.  At the time I posted my original message, I wasn't able to determine the price of a replacement transmission.  Since then, I found out a transmission cost $100.  The mower isn't worth more than about $50 to $75 and I've already invested about $35 to get the mower running (carb overhaul kit, fuel lines, spark plug, air filter, cleaner, fluids, new blade).  I don't see the value investing in a new cable let alone a new transmission.  There simply isn't enough return on the investment.   Again, thanks for your input.

At this point, I'm resigned to the fact that it probably is the cable although I'm not thrilled in investing another $19 into the mower.  Thanks for the input.

I recently recived this walk-behind mower from a neighhbor and, thanks to the info on the board, was able to get the engine running.  However, the RWD power drive doesn't work.

This mower has a cable-activated RWD transmission, which is supposed to pull a lever on the transmission to engage the power drive.  However, when I squeeze the control to engage the power drive, the lever on the transmission barely moves (i.e. the cable does not pull the lever enough to engage).  I can get the transmission to work by forcing the lever on the transmission to move with a screwdriver, so it is capable of working.  I have tried adjusting the trim dial for the cable housing without success.

Can anyone tell me:

1.  Are there any adjustments I can make on the transmission?

2.  Are there any replacement transmissions available?  I believe the Murray part no. is 071549

3.  Am I better off just taking off the pinion gears and using this as a push mower?

4.  Any other ideas?

I don't have the manuals, but I believe its a 1996 model.  Thanks in advance.