gsnod

Need some advice on this chain-drive mower. I've got a buddy who's in need of a mower, and another friend who wanted to get rid of a mower. Little did I know that this old chain drive looks pretty bad. But,,,it is a challenge, so I'm willing to try and get it running.

It's got some old gas that I'll dump, and I've got spark. Runs for a bit when you put starting fluid into the carb. Carb sits right on top of the fuel tank. My guess is it's not getting gas, so before I pull the carb off the fuel tank, I thought I'd ask the experts for any advice. Then, if I get it going, I'll start working on getting the chain drive going. 

Would you agree that pulling the carb off the tank is step # 1?

Greg

These blades work pretty well, but two years ago, I thought I'd try a Gator blade on my Scotts mower. I had great expectations, but found that the gator did'nt do a very good job of mulching at all. I went back to the original, which I sharpen several times per mowing season.

Up here in the northeast, I think I've mowed about 6 timres so far -- seems like a lot for this early in the season....

Can't post a picture, but the blade is designed to be reversed on the lawn mower deck when it is worn/dull. When reversed, a new cutting edge is exposed.

Does this clarify the point?

Blade thats reversible -- meaning that you can just flip it and use the other edge to cut the grass....

Yesterday I had a change to mow with the new Throttle Spring installed -- seemed to run with more power and output. Interestingly, it also ran smoother.....I judge this by the extent of the pull rope dancing as it comes to the handle.

So, now I'm left wondering whether the smoother run of the engine is due to: (1). Flipping the blade (it reversible); (2). changing the oil from straight dino 30 Wt., to 5-30 Synthetic; or (3). the engine running faster and thereby possible smoother.....

Any opinions?