Outdoor Power Equipment (Lawn Mowers, Snow Blowers, Chain Saws and more) Discussions

So we got the 12" of snow I've been wanting.  Took the Murray out and did my driveway two times.  Once during the storm the other after.  So, each time there was only five or six inches of snow on the driveway.

A neighbour was out of town for the weekend and I told him I'd clear his driveway prior to them coming home.  I waited for the storm to finish then tackled his driveway this morning.   I started off by using his 11 h.p. 30" Craftsman.  Got fuel - check, oil OK - check, fired it up  and it was running rough.  Adjusted the carb a bit and it smoothed out.  Noticed machine listing badly to the left.  Flat tire.  Look for pump.  No pump.  Back home to get mine.  Tire inflated, lets go to work. 

His machine is the second worst snowblower I have ever used.  The worst one was the first Craftsman that I owned and had bought used.   Absolute junk.  This machine is only marginally better and it's maybe ten years old.  First problem was the deflector was seized in the fully up position.  Real nice on a freezing, windy day.  Secondly was the chute would not stay put.  It would swing like a freaking weather vane unless I kept one hand on the crank to hold it.  I needed three hands to operate this thing.  I tried to find a bungee to lock in place but was out of luck.  I made three miserable passes and cleared the EOD then parked that miserable s.o.b. back in his garage then go back home to get the Murray. 

I go to fill the Murray and the gas cap is frozen in place.  Get the big channel locks to take it off.  I fill it and take it out to fire it up.  The g-damn key is missing and it's the only one I have.  I feel around in the snow and by sheer luck, I find it.  I immediately get a piece of wire and fasten it to the key and the other end to the machine.  Turn the key and go to pump the primer.  It's frozen.  Bust off the ice, warm up the primer, fire the machine up and drag it the two or three hundred feet over to the neighbour's driveway.  Everything is going fine..... for a while.  Then the paddles stop turning when I push into deep snow???  WTH?  Pull it back and the paddles turn fine.  Go into snow, they stop.  I figure something must have sheared or slipped.  Back to my garage, park it and pull the Craftsman from the back shed.  Fuel it, fire it up and finish the neighbour's driveway with no issues. 

I take the Murray into the basement to inspect and repair.  I pull the side panel off and find the driven pulley completely encased in ice......again.  I thought that I had remedied this problem the first time it happened.   Apparently not.   Upon close inspection, I found that what was probably happening was more to do with what I was doing in relationship to the design of the machine.  While i was working in the deep, light snow, I'd drag the machine backward while snow was falling from the sides into the path of the machine.  Snow would funnel up, between the wheels and into openings between the plastic housing and the engine mount right into the pulley compartment.  The more I dragged it backward in snow, the more snow would get in.  I put the machine back together, found some aluminum tape and covered the openings to the pulley compartment on the underside, put in another screw to tighten up the pulley cover joint and took it out to do the back yard.  Worked great.  So, if anyone out there has a slipping auger on their Murray, that's probably where the problem will be.

When the Murray is working, it's the best of the three Tecumseh powered machines I have.  Hopefully that the end of the problems for a while.      

How come you are not using your beloved (or neglected) Toro 221Q?  Is it hard to choose when you have so many snowblowers?  I have a similar problem with my bicycles.  I have a fleet of five but can only ride one at a time and end up putting 4000-5000 miles on one bike and other five gets less than 100-200 miles each.  Now that I have gotten a Honda SS, my two stage will not get too much time with me untles we get over 6" of snow.

MN_Runner wrote:
The Toro is effective but boring.  The engine runs at a constant 4000 rpm and I find it far less entertaining than using a machine that has variable throttle input.  The Tecumseh powered machines are also lighter and out-throw the Toro by quite a margin as well. 

The Toro hasn't seen much action since I bought it.  I keep it handy for occasions when I'm not around and either my wife or the neighbour's wife have to fend for themselves if the guys are away in winter.  They won't even attempt to use the dual stage machines and will resort to using the Toro only when absolutely necessary. 

     Borat,

         I like running the bigger SS’s but the little Boratified machine is fun to use.  I like the chainsaw throttling.  For tougher sections I max it out for very short periods probably 5,500 or 6,000 rpm.  It’s really screaming.   It bugs me to not have a throttle and have the things run hard when cold.  I usually keep the choke on and let them blubber for a while at lower rpm before running them full. 

     You might like one of the bigger 4 cycle machines.   MTD and Murry have had them for a few years now so there might be some used ones around for a good price.

 

     

trouts2 wrote:
I do the same thing when I fire them up.  I keep them on choke until I hear the engine getting lumpy then I take the choke off.  I also use a 32:1 premix for additional lubrication.  It's good for when the engine is cold and also helpful when run at high speeds.   Having the equivalent of a throttle is a nice feature that I really appreciate.    

I'm sure the new four cycle SS machines are nice.  However, I know there isn't one in my immediate future as long as I have at least one two cycle powered machine.  To me, bigger isn't really better.  Yesterday, I just lifted the Murray and carried it up the stairs to the house then rolled down the stairs into the basement.   Being only around 60 lbs. with no fuel in it, makes it easy enough to move around.  I doubt it would be as easy with a new four stroke machine.

Damn cold here today.  It was -36 with the wind chill this morning.  Going to be like that for a few more days due to unseasonally cold temperatures and brisk winds. 

borat wrote:
Two of my 4-stroke machines are effective as well.  I don't have any snow to use so far this year to classify them as boring.  Both of them are same engine design, Honda GX160 platform, pushrod OHV, they don't l ike to be Boratified, or at least my hearing doesn't agree to what kind of strain the engine is undergoing.  There's a lot of sound that tells me I should leave the RPM alone.  One engine is too expensive to blow up, the other one is too new to blow up.

Anyways, I'm looking for some excitement of Boratifiying the little Toro Powerlite.  It should be interesting to boost this litte wasp nest of an engine.  It has the Tecumseh 98cc engine.  Is it easy to Boratifiy an engine with a air vane governor?  With the little amount of snow we've been getting, I think only this Powerlite will be seeing any snow action this year.  I like working on the Powerlite, so simple to open up and service.

Vane governors are a pain.  Super light spring isn't easy to work with. 

Personally, I'd disconnect the vane spring, and connect a cable/wire directly to the butterfly lever to actuate the throttle.  I'd use stronger spring to pull the throttle back to desired low speed setting.  It will be a bit trickier than with the TH139 or HSK engine which are very easy to set up.  You'll have to do a bit of trial and error to get it right.  Good luck.  Let us know what you do with it.

aa335 wrote:

I agree with AA335, which is the reason why I have not bother operating my SS at much higher RPM.  It just does not sound right much above the current setting. Some engines sound great at high RPM but my GC160 is not one of them.  Maybe it is a good thing that Borat's 221Q is not agreeing to high RPM for self preservation.

>>Super light spring isn't easy to work with.

    Yes, mine was fairly easy to hook up but a pain to control well with the string.  Idle and max are ok but getting a steady RPM in between is tough.   (My driveway is the problem as it’s bumpy and the machine always bouncing around.)    My setup was a test lashup and never gotten back to.  Now that I’ve gotten some test time I like chainsaw operation and being able to idle it often when clearing.   The next shot will be a better setup.

 

>>I'm looking for some excitement of Boratifiying the little Toro Powerlite.

    Mine is a Powerlite and easy to setup but with the problems above.   Tough to go on a suggestion but you’ll probably like the setup.   Even if you don’t like the screaming max which takes time to get used to you’ll like being able to idle it for long walk-backs.   I think it was jtrbor that mounted a trigger on the top of the handlebar where the hands go.  That would be nice if a suitable smooth setup could be gotten for the right angle string bend going out of the cover.    

    With just a string to pull against the governor spring tension the action is very light so with gloves on which are spongy and the machine shaking getting a stable pull for stable rpm very difficult. 

 

BTW: My 4 cycle SS definitely won’t get the RPM mod.  But 2450’s and 3650’s no problem.  I’m trying to buy a 2450 today.   If I paid full price for a bigger Toro 2 cycle I’d be hesitant about mod’ing it.   Plenty of less expensive Murrays and MTS’s around that have good engines for mucking around.

>>Personally, I'd disconnect the vane spring, and connect a cable/wire directly to the butterfly lever to actuate the throttle.  I'd use stronger spring to pull the throttle back to desired low speed setting.

>> I think it was jtrbor that mounted a trigger on the top of the handlebar where the hands go.

Thanks for the input.  I'd probaby get a lawn mower throttle control assembly sold at hardware stores with a strong return spring.  The Powerlite is lightweight and does bounce quite around quite a bit, so I need something that can smoothly modulate the throttle.


>>I agree with AA335, which is the reason why I have not bother operating my SS at much higher RPM.

I think these engines are designed to operatate within a certain RPM for longetivity, noise, and fuel consumption.  I don't think it's designed or tuned to rev up and down like a racing engine.  I go by what I hear.  There was a lot of vibrations and I'm not sure if there is valve float at higher RPM.  The whole machine shooked pretty violently and I'm pretty sure if I keep it up, a lot of screws and fasteners will spin right off.  No fun snowblowing at high RPM if I have to stop and pick up parts.  :)


>>His machine is the second worst snowblower I have ever used.  The worst one was the first Craftsman that I owned and had bought used.   Absolute junk.  This machine is only marginally better and it's maybe ten years old.  First problem was the deflector was seized in the fully up position.  Real nice on a freezing, windy day.  Secondly was the chute would not stay put.  It would swing like a freaking weather vane unless I kept one hand on the crank to hold it.  I needed three hands to operate this thing.  I tried to find a bungee to lock in place but was out of luck.  I made three miserable passes and cleared the EOD then parked that miserable s.o.b. back in his garage then go back home to get the Murray. 

I find it disturbing to hear such a poorly maintained snowblower, especially for someone living in such an high snowfall area.  I have well-maintained equipment with redundancy in case of failures, most of which are factory stock, no mods, just a mild case of OCD in me.

aa335 wrote:

For borat, these vibrations are much too mild compared to the rocket launches he supported at NASA.