Outdoor Power Equipment (Lawn Mowers, Snow Blowers, Chain Saws and more) Discussions

I've mentioned in the past that I have a fairly large diesel generator at camp.  There is no electrical power service out there and no "grid" to hook up to.  So the camp is entirely independent of any other power source.  With that said, I've recently purchased a small 2kw inverter generator that I would prefer to use to watch TV and provide some lighting rather than cranking up the big diesel unit.  I calculate that I will need less than 500 watts from the generator to provide the power for light duty applications. 

The camp is wired as per normal North American code.  It has a panel with main breaker and I have fuses instead of breakers.  My intention is to plug the small generator into an external outlet to feed the camp.  From what I've read, there may be a problem supplying all of the outlets/lights in the camp due to only "one leg" only being powered due to using the 120 volt outlet.  I don't have any 240 volt outlets in the camp and the generator doesn't have a 240 output. 

My question is:  If it's correct that I will only be able to power half of the electrical panel/camp circuits, is there an easy way around this?   I.e.  running another extension cord from an activated outlet to a non activated outlet?   

MD, there are no lineman - he said there's no grid in the area.
Borat, I see a few problems you'll have to look at before you decide what to do.

First, I am assuming you don't want to toss an extension cord out the window and use that.

Running a male-male cord between two outlets would work but I doubt that it would be code compliant. Only a problem if you were ever to have a fire for any reason and the insurance company took a close look at it. But it would solve the problem of feeding both legs as long as there will never be any dual breakers (240v).

The cheapest legal way to do it would be to install a male receptacle outside where the generator would be. From there you wire up one or two new duplex outlets inside that you can plug the TV/lights/microwave into when you're running on the little genny. A pain to move the cords on those but fairly cheap and simple.
To keep it all legal (by US NEC at least) you can't have wiring in the same box from two sources.
For example: http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-4937-Weatherproof-Wallplate-Receptacle/dp/B00074USHY

You could wire up a manual transfer switch before the main fuse panel to pick between sources, but that's more expensive and you may need to reallocate your fuses to keep the desired circuits on the same leg.

mobiledynamics wrote:
It would appear that you didn't read the entire message. 

There are no linesmen to worry about because there are no lines. 

As I stated in my original post, the camp is not connect to any sort of external power source.  My diesel generator is the only elecricity supply and it is completely disconnected via fused switch box from the camp when not in use.   Backfeeding will not be an issue.  

Thanks for the info Bill H. 

For clarification purposes, the diesel generator is located in a garage about 100' from the camp. It feeds the camp via underground Tek cable, I believe it's 00 gauge. Very large wires. The generator feeds a large 100 amp switch/fuse box in the garage that I connect/disconnect with each use of the diesel power plant. The generator is 6KW continuous load.

I have one pump that is wired for 220/240 and I can isolate it by means of a breaker panel and switch in the area of the pump.  I have another Tek cable (8 gauge) that I run from the main panel in the camp  to a breaker panel in the sauna.   The pump is controlled by a suitable switch in the sauna and is only turned on when we need to pump water to fill a reservoir using the big generator as our power source.  So, the line for the sauna has slow blow fuses on the panel in the camp that feeds a smaller breaker panel in the sauna.  Plenty of safety redundancy.     

As I said in my original post, the camp is correctly wired in accordance with Canadian code as is the sauna.

I hope this additional information helps. Really appreciate your input so far.

Got it. To keep things simple, I would do as suggested a run a outdoor inlet so the Gen can plug to it.
Then just *backfeed* into the panel via alternate Fuses on L1/L2

Or just use something like a standard l14-30 or 14R Inlet, and then bridge the 2 hot legs on your *special extension cord feeding the inlet) and then wire it to 2 fuses on the panel so both legs are coverered. Just turn off the 240 items when doing so and you should be good.


I personally prefer inlets where the plug is being plugged *upside down* keep the plug away from the elements.
Alot of the more common ones are the flip panel lid up

mobiledynamics wrote:
I guess I could wire in an alternative circuit to the camp  panel.  However, I'm trying to avoid that. 

I have two external outlets on the camp each on a seperate circuit and possibly on each leg of the panel.   What I'm thinking is that I can run a "special" plug from each of the outlets on the generator to each of the external outets on the camp.  I'm fairly sure that each external outlet is on a seperate leg.  If it's not, it will be easy enough for me to re-wire the panel to make it that way. 

Is there any reason why the above plan will not work? 

 The only thing I would do different would to make the receptacle/cord a twistlock in the scenario you propose.

borat! i'm no electrician but i did work in line construction for 37 yrs.why can't you rewire your 100 amp service box so  the few things that you want to run the small generator for are on one 110 bar in the box.

I agree with mkd55 moving  the breakers in the box to the other bus bar that is energized by the small generator will allow you to run all of those small loads off of the small generator.  It will only require you to remove the load center front cover and pull the breaker you want energized and move it up or down one space to put it on the other bus bar.  It should take you all of 10 minutes to do it. 

I've been thinking about doing that.  However, if I can activate both legs of the panel by using two lines from the generator to the two exterior outlets on the camp, that would be my preference.  That way I get all of the camp energized, which is mostly compact flourescent lights, low draw LED LCD TV  and a Bell ExpressVu receiver.  With every light in the camp on, and the TV running, total watts is probably less than 600.  The two exterior outlets are only about 20'  apart and I can run the second cable under the camp and pretty much leave it there unplugged when not in use.  So the run isn't that long and the draw is minimal.  I plan to use 12ga braided wire for the lines from the generator. 

The small generator will not be permanently installed at the camp.  I plan to put it on a garden wagon and build a shelter over it.   When it's not in use, I can just haul it up to the garage for storage.  Keeping it mobile will give me more options for power.  Out there, it's a two hundred foot walk from the lake up the hill to fire up the diesel every time I need electricity.  Keeping the small machine mobile will allow me to haul it to the various areas around the yard where I may need electricity, such as charging batteries in the boat, charging batteries for cordless tools, or for using power tools/exterior lights at night.  

Appreciate all the advice I've received so far.  I'll have all winter to make the cables, buy/build the wagon.  Spring's a loooooooong way off. 

Hey Borat :

A pic for you...
On my 120 gensets, I had to make a cheater myself....as my switch is wired for 2 legs.
I bridged L1 / L2 for the inlet plug, but I also put a big Tag on the special cord just for reference.




I'm a huge proponent on external plugging vs running cords.  I like your dual *cheater* cord plugging.
Just twistlock and a FEMALE on your cord end so the Suicide Cord is not so Suicide.
That will sorta defeat the outlets when on diesel power I suppose...

Moreso from a safety standpoint. Even a cracked window with wind can create a air vac.