Outdoor Power Equipment (Lawn Mowers, Snow Blowers, Chain Saws and more) Discussions

I picked up a nice clean 3000 watt generator from CL with a small crack in the bottom of the crankcase that allows the oil to drain out slowly (fell off the back of a pickup). Any one have any suggestions/experience for repairs other than welding? I'm hoping maybe Devcon, JB weld or some metal epoxy?
The motor is a clone, Lifan 168F2 196 cc and parts seem to be quite rare. The manufacturer will ship a replacement crankcase for $62.00 + transport, which is probably close to what I would pay to have it welded.
Thanks

Drill stop hole need to be just a bit larger than the width of the crack.  The smaller the better.   The objective of the hole is to distribute the stress around the arc of the circumference of the hole rather than the crack  continuing on.  

Why not just buy the new (or used if you can find one) crankcase if the price is fairly reasonable?  If you want to re-sell it at some point, having a non-cracked crankcase (and non welded) will at least not scare the potential buyer away. Hopefully you can find a replacement. 

Ok, I pulled the engine from the chassis to get a better look at the crack (or should I say cracks). Looks like the whole corner is not far from coming off.  I wish the cylinder was separate from the crankcase. Here are some photos:

Also got some pics of the engine. I'm not expert but it looks a heck of a lot like a GX200 clone to me.









 

Looks like a tough fix.  Not sure if welding (weldings) will hold. The hairline crack will likely get bigger during heating and cooling cycles. 

Looks very similar to the engines CTC had on sale for less than $150.00

Not sure but I think they were LCT or Champion engines.  The 196cc is very similar to the Honda GX200 and from what I've read, parts are interchangeable.  You'd probably be better off getting a new engine and keeping the one with the cracked block for parts.

I just got an add from Harbor freight and they have there 6.5hp predator engines on sale for 99 dollars and if you have a 20% off coupon its only about 80 dollars but that is a 3/4" straight shaft and yours may be a tapered shaft. If yours is using a 3/4" straight shaft I would just replace the engine.

   The way the cracks are open and metal distorted I don’t think glue would do much.   If you tried to get things to line up they’ll just crack more.

   I’d probably use it as is but pot the 4 areas on the crack4 picture filling them with a strong but non-brittle hard epoxy type glue, something with a little give or flexibility.   Fill the inside areas and also run glue on the outside.  No strength would be required from the glue on the outside sections.  It would just be a leak stopper if that’s where the leaks are coming from i.e. the cracks around the oil outlet area.   There is no picture which shows if the cracks run to the threads of the oil plug.   

   If the corner section stays in place and it probably would then the potting would stop bottom leaks and outside leaks would only need a patch.  

I for one would degrease it very well and have a welding shop pre heat with a torch and Heliark weld that sucker. I see no problem at all since I have welded the impossible and still are going strong.

Looks to me that the main problem is the mounting configuration. If you do attempt to fix it maybe you can get a sheet of metal or plywood to put under the engine block so you can support the whole thing.