Outdoor Power Equipment (Lawn Mowers, Snow Blowers, Chain Saws and more) Discussions

is it better to run the generator once a month or can it be stored until it is needed.I read it should be run monthly under load so the generator head stays magnetized.Is this true?

That is, after it runs out of gas I disconnect it first, fill-er-up, start it up, then reconnect to my system. This is a wonderful site...... 

letting it run out of gas under a load is not good for the gen head or the loads that it is powering.   If you are running out of gas I suggest you go out to the generator when you have at least 1/2hour left of run time, disconnect the loads and shut it down to re-fill.  Some might refill it with the engine running but you are taking a big chance if you spill gas on the muffler or exhaust.  

The other option is installing a larger fuel tank.

Roger the good suggestions carib, I will do a better job of filling before running out. All this good info/input is well advised. Just never knew or heard that a shut down because of  gas shortage could be a problem. I will heed this word to the wise............thank you for the tip...... 

One explanation that I heard for why to shut down "manually" (shut off and disconnect the loads, then kill the engine), vs running out of gas, was:

- The more obvious, the voltage change and frequency change will likely not be good for electronics/motors. Maybe not a problem if you're running a simple light bulb, or basic heater ("dumb" resistive loads). But sounds like they could be rough on other devices.
- The aspect I'd never considered was that there is a voltage regulator in most modern generators. It's some sort of magic (to me, at least ) electrical device that basically amplifies the generator head's output voltage if it's below, say, 110V, or regulates it down if it's too high. Under normal operation, the regulator's job isn't too bad. But during an out-of-gas type shutdown, under a load, the generator head's output voltage drops as the engine slows. As the source voltage drops, the regulator tries to keep sending 110V to the outlet, so it cranks up its amplifier, can overheat, etc. Over time, you can damage the regulator when shutting down like this.

I have no idea how quickly real damage to the generator could happen. But I've been sure to avoid running the generator out of gas, on the occasions I've had to use it.

Plus, if you're going to shut it down "permanently" (not just filling the tank quickly), you want to disconnect the loads, then let it run for a few minutes under no load, so the engine's internal temperatures have a chance to drop, and equalize. Otherwise it's hot from running under a load, then when you abruptly shut it down, the airflow stops, and it stays quite hot, with localized hot spots. Again, just what I've read. Maybe a few minutes with no load is not really essential. But for the rare times I use it, trying to treat it "gently" is not a big deal, and is cheap insurance.

Of course, also disconnect any loads before starting it. Then connect them on one by one, once the engine is warmed up. Having a few motors (fridge, furnace, etc) all trying to start at the same time will put a really big load on the generator.

Back to the original question, I don't run mine monthly, the way the manual instructs. But I have not had a problem when starting it back up after maybe 6 months. I do plan to start shutting off the fuel flow, and running the carb dry, before storing it. Until now, I'd been shutting it down, *then* closing the fuel valve. That leaves gas in the carb, which can gum it up. For an engine that I do not run often, but is really required when I need it, I want to reduce the chances of a problem. Use fuel stabilizer if you plan to keep the gas in there for a while. Better yet, don't keep any gas in the carb or tank. As was suggested, keep it in cans, and put that gas into the car periodically, to keep fresh gas around. Sorry for the long post.

Real generators may lose their field strength over time. Self-exciting alternators do not have such problems. You may want to check you owners manual to see what you have....check to see if it refers to "flashing the field" or such. As far as cooling a generator/ alternator.. There should be no "hot spots" in the unit. Even a 240 v generator only running on one phase at full load should be able cool itself or disperse heat evenly, copper being the secound most wildly used thermal conductive metal after silver... My 2 cents Friiy

I'm thinking about converting my EU2000i's to a tri fuel option.

As far as running a generator with no load for a few minutes after use, that is something I have heard of all OPE or engines in general.

As far as a "Cool down Period".(no-load for X min after use)...  What is going to happen?  Is the engine going to get HOTTER than running under load?  Does anyone have a "cool-down period" for their car?

Just food for thought...

Friiy

friiy wrote:
Actually the engine will get hotter for a period of time after shutdown when running under a load.  When the engine is running air is being moved across the engine in large amounts to pull heat away from the engine.  In a water cooled engine the water is being circulated and cooled in the radiator to remove the heat.  When shut off both engines will heat soak.

The engine will cool down idling under a no load condition.  With an air cooled engine letting it run for a few minutes with no load will help it from heat soaking and possibly cooking the oil some.   A hard run water cooled engine should also be allowed to run at an idle for a bit before shutdown. 

Your car is not normally driven anywhere near its max load but a generator is.  If you take a car and run it hard under a load and shut it off I am certain it will puke water all over the place.  

I used to race both cars and motorcycles and we always allowed a idle cool down period after a hard run.  Drag race cars normally don't need an idle cool down because they normally don't get too hot in one pass, but  if you put a few passes on it in a row it will get quite hot and need to be cooled down by idling and blowing cold air, water, nitrogen  or nitrous through the radiator to help cool it down.


Carl

I disagree with the statement , not the proceedure. The engine will not get "physically hotter" if you shut it down, oil will not "bake". The worst condition that the engine or oil is under is full load, it gets no hotter. Anything that can't handle full operating temp. probly isn't worth having. I believe in a cool down period in my own person equipment. Not for the engine's (block) sake, but ease of putting the damn thing away or fueling it. Not trying to pick a fight I just think the idea is flawed as stated. We can all state "novelty engines" or special requirements, but as blanket statement I believe it's false. Especially in regards to OPE. Friiy