Outdoor Power Equipment (Lawn Mowers, Snow Blowers, Chain Saws and more) Discussions

I have heard it said that harm may comne to carbureter components if the system is drained for storage because seals etc will dry out.  I also see most now say to drain before storage.  I've done both (drained and wet store with stabilizer) and have had no problems either way.  anybody know about the dry seals problem?  Comments welcome!

I never store with fuel in the carb.  Never had a seal problem either.

Never store with gas in the tank or carb and have never had a problem with dry gaskets or seals.

I store with dry carb but with metal tank full of gas to prevent tank rusting.  No problems with seals.

Haven't tried storing with stabil and wet carb, I don't think that's a good idea either.  I don't even use stabil the last two years.

I empty my metal tanks and make sure they are dry, then i fog them with wd40 and put the gas cap back on.  Never had any trace of rust in any metal tank using this method.

carlb wrote:
Sounds like a great idea - never thought of it.  The WD40 is just light hydricarbon stuff that would coat the metal, and it would not have any harmful effect on the engine when its gased up for winter and started.  I'll give it a try!

I've done the WD40 thing on my motorcycle tanks if storing them long term with no fuel.  The problem is that it's difficult to get the fluid sprayed onto the top of the tank.  I've tried to bend the straw to spray upward but due to the short length of the straw, I question how effective it is.  To do it right, the straw should be at least 18" long and have a curve on the end to allow it to spray upward.  

Few years ago I bought some rustproofing of German manufacture.  It came with a long flexible tube with a head full of small holes - like a shower head -  and it DID spread the stuff around inside the panels.  So, I'm thinking maybe possible to make something similar if I can find a piece of tygon tubing that would slip over the short straw that comes with WD40 and then punch some holes in the tubing and maybe plug the end.  I think I'll give that a try.

And, to add some humour to the discussion, it's not really an original idea.  Back in the day, in High School Chemistry lab, we had those long gooseneck taps with a slip-on connecter on the end and there was always a short piece of rubber tubing attached to it which was open on the bottom end..  One of the students in the front row (not sayin any names) had the bad habit of just momentarily turning on the tap full force and immediately shutting it off.  Dunno why - he just did and it made a lot of splashing noise but that was about it. Until, one day, he showered the whole class cause someone had punched holes in the full length of the tubing and plugged the end with a stubby lead pencil.   And everybody just hit the deck, including the guy that turned the tap, leaving the shower running full force,

I should have mentioned that as i am spraying the wd I am also using compressed air /blow gun to atomize the wd in the tank.  It breaks the wd into a fog and does a nice job of coating the tank.  You can actually see a light fog mist exiting the tank as you do it.

Another good idea!  Prob saved me from changing my middle initials to WD  LOL.

carlb wrote:
Nice! I almost posted yesterday to suggest that, but it would require the user has an air compressor, etc. And since I don't have a compressor myself, I had no idea whether would actually work in the first place