Outdoor Power Equipment (Lawn Mowers, Snow Blowers, Chain Saws and more) Discussions

She isn't perfect, but she looks a lot better than the old rustbucket.  I downgraded from the 340cc Greyhound to a 212cc Predator and it doesn't run as well as the old Greyhounds.  Surges a lot and has to have half choke to run smooth.  The gas I had was a couple months old so maybe that is part of the problem.  If some new gas doesn't solve it does anyone have any good info or links on drilling the jets or buying new ones?  I have never done that myself.  I did see one or 2 youtube videos on jets an emulsion tubes, but all that did was confuse me since the tubes all had different hole patterns.

Still haven't had much snow to try it on.  Gave it a first test run today and it did pretty well.  I had to shovel first to get a pile of snow deep enough to have something to blow.  Did get one stupid look from someone walking down the street when I was taking the pictures.

Yes, this is a late 1970s model that now has black handlebars and augers.  I hope no one tells Scot on me :)

Not sure I'd drill the jet.  It would take a mighty small bit and there's a good chance it could break.  I've had good success cleaning/enlarging the orifice of a jet by using cutting torch tip cleaners.  They're very fine and sufficiently abrasive to open up the orifice.  You don't want to go too big.  Find a size that just fits and work it a bit until the next size up fits the enlarged hole.   Don't open it up any more until you test it.  If no improvement, repeat with the next size up.   Takes time but sooner or later, you'll get the jet to the size you need.  Go slowly and be patient.

The paint job look fine, why did you take off the 340cc and go with the 212? I would have thought that it would be a snow beast with the 340.
I don't know about the predator motor but the old 6.5 greyhound used the same jets as Honda.  You may be able to use the jet from a honda gx240.
If you have some small drills you can drill it by hand don't use a drill, the brass is very soft. 

The 11HP on a 24" blower was overkill.  It used a bit more gas that I would have liked.

I did end up ruining a gear box through a combination of operator abuse, and 11HP engine and what I think was an already damaged set of gears.
I am hoping to find a 32" blower someday at a good price and maybe move the 11HP over to that.  I still have the 11HP and if need be I can swap it back.
I figured since I was painting it black and orange a black engine would be better than a blue one.

Shryp,

   That a wicked nice Ariens model.  Cast iron gearbox, the nice differential before they screwed it up with improvements, easy auger lever lockdown not dependant on the drive lever which is a pain at times, dash mounted chute control, and all spruced up with fresh paint.  What more could a guy ask for???

    As you use the Predator post reports.  I can't find anything about them online.  I assume parts can be had with a worse case wait but availble if needed.  What was nice about the GX clone was you could do anywhere and get parts.  But then in four years and about 12-13 of them I've have not had to buy a part yet.  Hopefully the Predators will be as good.

trouts2 wrote:
Remote Deflector.

I hope to have good news on the Predator.  I too would look for info and they only people posting anything are gokart and minibike guys.  Most of them seem happy.  They say it has a bit more torque than the old Greyhounds.  Guess that makes sense with the bigger displacement.  It does have a plastic/nylon cam gear as opposed to steel on the other clones.  No one has reported a problem yet though.

Nice job Shryp, it looks great!

I'll be curious what you find with the surging. I have a Generac generator with a Generac GN-320 engine (non-adjustable carb), which surges unless I run with half-choke. I've used the half-choke method for now, for the small amount I've used it (bought it used). I know people aren't big fans of magic-in-a-can, but I'll confess I've added some Seafoam to the tank, in case that might help. I'm a bit leery of opening up the carb to clean it, in part based on something I read in passing, which implied that getting carb kits for Generac-built engines may not be easy.

Did you put those Snow Hog tires on it?

Your blower looks nice.  Ought to get the job done and be pretty bullet proof.  I love those controls on the older Ariens.  For a while I thought about trying to adapt a set to my 1332.

LOOKS GOOD!!!!

borat wrote:
l have as well in larged some jets on some honda clones i bought that surged badly brand new...with a welding torch tip cleaner!!!  works great.. and u can also buy a jet in large tool which is basically the same thing as welding torch tip cleaner...although the torch tip cleaner has many sizes to choose from which is kinda nice.

Thanks for the tips on the torch cleaner files.  I don't have any, but I'll keep an eye out for a set.  This one surged brand new so I doubt it is dirty, that said there was someone last year who said his brand new Greyhound came with sand in the carb.  I want to get some fresh gas and some real snow to see how it works with a long term load on it before I do anything.  I suspect it is the idle jet that needs  opened a bit as it does seem like the acceleration is a bit sluggish too.

And yes, I put the snow hogs on myself last year when I did the 11HP engine.  This year I took them off again so I could paint the rims.  When I remounted them and made sure to mount from the back side so I didn't scratch up the paint too bad on the outside of them.

Edit:
I just watched a few more videos about the clone carbs and think I understand how they work now.  I saw most of the Honda's have an adjustable idle mixture screw so decided to go see if mine did.  Mine just looks like it has a cap pressed in there.  I pulled the idle stop screw out and pulled the pilot jet out.  That hole really is tiny.  Wasn't impressed to find 2 small chrome looking flakes of metal stuck to the side of the plastic holding the jet.  It did seem to run a little bit better after putting it back together.  I haven't tried opening the jet up yet as I still want to get some fresh gas before I go messing with it.  Suppose now I should just take the whole carb apart and make sure nothing else is hiding inside.

Good news!

I dumped the old gas and took the carb apart. It was clean everywhere so I guess those couple flakes I found on the idle jet were a fluke.
I put it back together and put new gas in it. Didn't make much of a difference in how it ran.

I took the idle jet back out and ran a torch tip cleaner through it. The smallest one didn't fit all the way. I "forced" it through and then it could slide in and out.
The "file" part wouldn't fit because the lead was too long so I cut part of the lead off it. Now the file part is just too thick completely. Oh well, I put it back together and it runs a little better.

I take the main jet out and put a file in that. One is a little too small, but the next size wouldn't fit at all. So I take the smaller one and try to ream it a bit. Didn't really seem to do anything, but I don't want to go too far. I put it back together.

Now it works great! I can even start it without choke once it is warmed up. Smooth as can be, good acceleration from idle to full. Picks up well when engaging the auger on idle and on full speed without any stutter. So if anyone else has problems with their Predator 212cc 6.5HP surging opening the jets just a hair will do wonders for it.

It is still about 45 degrees here so not sure how it will run when it gets cold, but now I am a lot happier.

Good to hear the tip cleaners worked out for you.  It's amazing what a little filing can do to improve jetting.

Last summer, I rescued an old Tecumseh Eager 1 from a scrap pile.  It had been in there for around fifteen years.   The guy who owned it put it there because it wouldn't start.  He was old friend of mine and has since passed away.

 I had some time on my hands so I decided to take a look at it.   Other than being reluctant to start, it was in very good condition.  Lots of compression, good spark and even the oil looked good.  Not bad for fifteen years in a pile of  trash.   I zoned in on the carb first thing.  Pulled if off,  thoroughly cleaned it, put it back on and now it would fire but not stay running and it took several yanks on the cord to get it to run.   Off with the carb, clean some more.  Back on.  No change.  For the life of me, I couldn't figure out what the problem was.  I knew that I had opened every orifice and passage but the thing still wasn't right.  Finally, I took a close look at the hollow bolt that holds the float bowl on.  It's got two tiny holes on opposite sides of the bolt that feed fuel to the main jet.   I could run a fine wire through the holes and could see light through them so they appeared alright.  Nonetheless, I deducted that the problem was insufficient fuel flow so I took out the tip cleaner and reamed the two little holes out.  Put it back together and it fired on the second pull and ran flawlessly.  I suspect that over the years, the orifices were restricted by varnish build up sufficiently enough to upset fuel supply.  

Sometimes when you think everything is good and should work but doesn't, it's time to review the theory, understand cause and effect and move on to more drastic measures.   Nothing goofy mind you, but something like a jet reaming may be necessary.   I very seldom have had to do it.  Most carbs will work well after a thorough cleaning.  Obviously, some need a bit more attention. 

This is my Ariens before I did the job too similar macvhine to yours but its a 8hp engine

Very nice work.  Those machines are lifers. 

Nice Job Denis!!

Too bad we don't have any snow to put all these nice machines to use. Another 2 months or so and we'll all have to wait til next fall/winter to do any kind of snowblowing....

It rained here yesterday and broke a 60 year record for the highest temperature on Jan. 6th.   It was almost 40 F. here and there's a chance it could get warmer today.   Not much snow, too warm, no fun!    Normal people do like this though.

I am enjoying not so cold winter in MN.

Do you have to dismantle the whole snowblower to do a paint job like that ? I'd love to be able to spruce up my old Noma Signauture series which is 18 years old.
Any tips would be much appreciated.
Thanks

Dudester wrote:
It helps.
I had the bottom cover, engine, handles, dash, controls, augers, impeller, rims, tires and axle off as well as the front bucket separated from the back.
I left the friction drive, sprocket and jackshaft in the drive unit though.