Outdoor Power Equipment (Lawn Mowers, Snow Blowers, Chain Saws and more) Discussions

I have a chance to buy this :

SIMPLICITY PRO 9/28

HAS SAT ALL YEAR AND NOW HAS SOME SOME ISSUES WHEN i GOT IT OUT TODAY. STARTS EASY AND SEEMS TO RUN FINE BUT THE CHUTE CRANK RATTLES AND TURNS HARD. THERS A BUSHING IN IT THAT LOOKS SHOT. ALSO THE CABLE THAT WORKS THE CHUTE DEFLECTOR IS STUCK. BOTH REVERSE SPEEDS WORK FINE AND 2, 3, 4, 5, WORK OK. WHEN IN 1ST GEAR SPEED IT DOESNT MOVE. NOT SURE IF THATS AN ADJUSTMENT MAYBE. AND IF YOU PUSH THE PRIMER BULB GAS SPRAYS OUT OF THE BOTTOM NEAR THE CARBERATOR. THO IS STARTS OK AND RUNS GOOD WITHOUT THE PRIMER SO IT MAY BE BAD FROM ME NEVER USING IT. THE TIRES WERE FLAT . i PUT AIR IN THEM. NOT SURE IF THEY HAVE LEAKS OR IF IT WAS JUST FROM SITTING SINCE LAST WINTER. THE AUGER WORKS AND TURNS WITH NO NOISE OR PROBLEMS. STILL HAS PAINT ON THE AUGER .. AND OVERALL MACHINE IS VERY CLEAN. HAS ELECT START BUT I ALWAYS USE THE PULL START , WHICH WORKS FINE.

I can pick it up for about 250.00 the chute I am sure I can fix it myself, the tires I am not too concerned with.... but I am not sure about the carb problem or 1st gear issue. Any suggestions? I would like to buy this get it working (if its not to much $$) and keep it as a backup. But I know its not gonna last unless I move quickly but I dont want to get stuck with a huge bill. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

For that price, if it's in half decent shape, it's a steal. 

Buy it, figure out the problems/fixes and you'll have one fine snow blower.

What is the factory model number?

The carburator is probably not a problem,  just extra gas from pushing the prime button.  I have seen this many times on Tech engines. The gear issue is an adjustment as this is a friction wheel blower.  For 250 i would grab it in a second. 

If the engine runs and the augers are not stuck the rest is easy stuff.  I suspect that water got in the deflector cable and is rusted in place.  Take the cable off and hang it upside down and spray pblaster or other rust busting spray on the exposed end of the cable.  When you can pull the cable from the casing do so and then clean up the cable.   coat with a very light oil and reinstall.   Make sure there is a cap on the end to prevent water from getting in in the future.

If the tires have a slow leak you can break the bead clean up the bead and tire and see if that works.  I would just put some fix flat in them and call it a day.

carl

I agree that the primer leak is most likely caused by over priming.  It just pushes air into the carb bowl and pushes fuel into the carb.  Without the engine running the fuel has a 50/50 chance of either running into the engine or out of the air intake.  If you are worried try tipping the blower back on the handles a bit and then prime it.  Gravity should then keep all the fuel inside the air intake.  I suppose worst case is you have a bad bowl or bowl gasket causing a leak.  That will cost about $5 to fix :)

I also agree that the lack of a first gear is most likely a linkage adjustment.  It is set so that speeds 1-5 are too slow and R is too fast.  This could be done on purpose to make R faster.  It causes 1 to actually be dead center on the friction plate so it won't turn either way and just wear down the rubber.  An easy test for this would be to put it in first and engage the clutch with the engine off and try to push the blower.  It should feel locked up if everything is working and just out of adjustment.  The other possibility for gears not working in a friction disk system is worn out bearings, but those cause the fastest F and R speeds to not work since that is where the greatest amount of play would be.

I emailed the guy twice today all with no response, he just contacted me to tell me its sold! Guess that was a no brainer on my part! ;( I should have know better! Should have just bought it!

Thanks for all the reply's!

Yep, happened to me a couple times at least. Now we know why they say "He who hesitates is lost".

Cheers