Outdoor Power Equipment (Lawn Mowers, Snow Blowers, Chain Saws and more) Discussions

I finished the last coat of paint today.  The can says 7 days to fully cure.  Should I wait until then to assemble my Sno-Thro?  Used Rust-Oleum Enamel.

I know this doesn't help you at this time of year but, I like to do my paint work in the spring / early summer.  After painting I leave them in the sun for a week before i do any assembly.  The longer you can wait to assemble the better off you are.  As mentioned heat lamps work wonders,  you can even get away using a 500 watt halogen work light if the parts aren't too big.  Rustoleum does take a while to fully cure.

It probably depends on environment...I should wait at least 7 days then?  I do have a single stage machine in the event we get some snow over the next week or so.  That is my only concern...that and the waiting is the hardest part.  I am anxious to assemble.

I do have some work on the engine that could keep me busy.

Thanks for the feedback.

I normally use Rust-Oleum on everything.  I does take a while to fully cure. Warmer temperatures and low humidity would help with that.  While it's curing it can be perfectly dry to the touch but will
still be soft underneath.   After a day or so if you push on the paint with your finger and it doesn't leave a finger print then it's usually cured enough to reassemble the parts.  You just have to be careful not to nick or scrape anything.  Even if you wait 7 days the paint will still a little soft with the temperatures your dealing with.  I would just use care and get things put it back together.
You obviously don't want to rush things and mess up your paint job.  But it is just a snowblower.

What about clear?  Anyone put clear coat on?  I do have a can of Krylon clear lacquer.  Or should I stick to enamel?

I have clear on portions of my blower housing.  But you have to be careful putting on a coat of clear.  If the paint isn't completely cured (and it probably isn't because of temperature)
it can soften the coats of paint underneath it.  Cause it to lift, and it will all wrinkle up.  Also using lacquer will make that possibility of that happening increase.

How long would it take to cure if the parts being painted are inside at room temperature?  Wouldn't that speed things up, or not?

coasteray wrote:
Ditto.  The painted parts are in a "garage under", that is, in my basement which is not quite conditioned space.  Stable humidity and maybe 60 degrees.  I gotta post some pics...I'm really happy with the results so far but want added protection of a clear coat.  That's what it's all about, yes?  The shine?  I mean, what else is there to do when there is no snow? 

manjestic wrote:
A few things

If you are going to clear coat it it would be advisable to scuff the surface with a fine grade wet or dry paper in the 1500 grit range and wet, this will  help the clear coat adhere to the paint. 

Wipe down the surface with some paint thinner (not lacquer thinner) to remove any oils contaminets.

I believe you said that you used rustoleum paint which is an enamel paint.  Do not under any circumstances use a lacquer based clear over the enamel as it will cause the paint to lift right off.

enamel can be put over lacquer but not the other way around.

Thanks, Carlb.  Yes, I used Rust-Oleum Engine Enamel.  I do have some 2000 grit wet/dry paper.

I've been using denatured alcohol as a prep to remove oils and sanding residue...can this be an alternate for paint thinner?

yes alcohol is fine