Outdoor Power Equipment (Lawn Mowers, Snow Blowers, Chain Saws and more) Discussions

I must say i have not seen a rectifier with two hot output terminals on it, but it may be more common on tractors than snow blowers.  The light might be fine with the 17.5 volts while that would be too high for maintaining the battery. 

Maybe use term 1 @ 17 volts for the light and term 2 @ 12.5 for batt charging. 

Term one may be limited by a voltage regulator built into the rectifier

carlb wrote:
I think there a few out there, but not many snow blowers have an on board 12v electrical system.  It's almost impossible to find information and any type
of wiring diagrams for the setup I've got.  Actually I haven't found any.  That is why I've been using the Honda HT3810 tractors system as a guide for what I'm doing.
I figure that it doesn't matter whether the system is on a tractor or a snowblower.  But maybe I'm wrong about that.  All I'm hoping to accomplish is to be able to
run my light without draining the battery to the point the I can't use the electric starter to start it the next time out. 
Last year with the 11hp Honda clone and the 3A coil.
I never had a low battery problem unless I had been using the light for a while.  Usually if I did, I would throw a trickle charger on it overnight and things would be fine.
The light is only got a 25 or 35W bulb so I'm not needing that much output from the coil(s) to keep the light running and at the same time be giving the battery a little charge.
I'm going to put the flywheel back on this morning and take another reading from the coil wires.  Meter in VAC mode. With one probe to one wire and the other probe to the other wire. Then I'll make sure that the battery has a full charge. Hook it up in the system and take readings again off the starter solenoid terminal.   With the red wire on terminal #1
and then with it on terminal #2.  Would there be any reason, or would it make any sense to you.  That for some reason terminal #1 needs to be hooked directly to the battery.
And terminal #2 should be hooked to the starter solenoid?  In other words that for some reason both output terminals of the reg/rec need to be hooked to something.
Instead of the why I'm doing it which is to only have only one of the output terminals hooked to something?  I ask because the wiring diagram for the tractor shows the rec/reg hooked up that way.  In my last post I talked a little about how the tractor is wired from the rectifier.

carlb wrote:
Something just occurred to me after thinking about what you said.  The rec/reg I'm using is off that Honda tractor.  It has a few other components that are putting a
draw on the system when it's running.  Like a fuel pump and a electric PTO clutch.  It also has all kinds of safety switches, buzzers, warning lights etc.
So maybe that is why the output from terminal #1 is 17v.  The rec/reg was designed for that output to handle occasional heavy loads lights, etc.
And the output from terminal #2 is a steady 12.5V for just normal load.  Not sure I put that into words to well. 
As I've said before I have to keep reminding myself that this rec/reg was not designed to be used with my engine.
The rec called for my engine is a Shindengen SH586B-12 an the one I'm using is a Shindengen SH561-12
Could be if I had the right one that the output from terminal one would be more in the 14-15V range.
Just speculating.

Alright, put the engine back together and took some readings.
Test 1
Across both wires coming from coil.  Meter set to VAC 
@ idle 9V
@ FT  23V

Battery was charged reading 13.6V and hooked in system
Test 2
Red wire hooked to term #2 on Rec/reg and running to starter Sol.
Meter set to VDC Blk. probe to grnd.  Red probe to battery + post (it's easier to get to).
@ idle 13.0V     w/ lgt. on  12.3V
@ FT  13.3V     w/ lgt. on   13.1V
(This was the first check I ran.  When I ran all the others I ran this one again. And the readings were lower. in the 12.5V range.
Was that the battery voltage dropping some from the original 13.6V charge) ?

Test 3
Moved red wire from term #2 to term. #1
@ idle  12.8V
@ FT   17.8V and it was slowly climbing

Test 4
Removed the red wire from term. #1 and took reading off the bare term.
@ idle 12V
@ FT   38V but it was slowwwwly falling.
(Didn't take this same type of reading off terminal #2)

All the readings seemed fluctuate a little + or -  .2 or more

it is very difficult to get a good reading on a charging system without some type of load or buffer such as a battery or light.  You may be seeing very high voltage with no load but it will normally drop substancially when a load is applied.

I would hook up the light to term 1  and the battery to the term 2 
Then take a reading off both terminals both with the light on and the light off.

Voltage reading at an idle really isn't necessary as it will usually be low.

This is how i would hook it up.  The worst that can happen is you burn out the bulb which i doubt or you undercharge the battery which wont really hurt anything.

If this is the best that you can achive with this regulator that is what i would do. 

You may have to put the battery on a trickle charge after use if the battery gets too low.  If you don't have to use the light you should not have any problems.

Good Luck

carlb -Thanks for the reply.

carlb wrote:

Well, I hooked up term 1 to the starter solenoid.  And term 2 directly to the battery + post. 
Took reading off the battery + post
@ idle 14.6V
@ idle with the light on 13.3V
@ full throttle 14.6v
@ full throttle with the light on 14.3V
That would be a good reading.
I guess for some reason I needed to have both terminals hooked up.  Don't have any idea why that would be. 
But I believe that 14.5V @ FT is an acceptable reading. Yes?
Checked today the light is 35W

I would say that would be acceptable, yes.  You have a push button starter switch and no key.  If you do go to a key switch with off-on-start, you might route the connection to term 2 via the "ON" part of the key switch.  My thinking is that your battery might run down when the system is off, as you are powering the regulator circuit via term 2.

You could verify this by putting an ammeter on you battery when the engine is off and see if you get parasitic draw off of the battery.

manjestic wrote:
Thanks for your comment.  I will check the battery in the morning and see if it's charge has dropped from where it was this evening.
This stuff makes me crazy.  Wish I had a better understanding of it all.

jrtrebor wrote:

I'm in a different boat. I'm OK with the electrical. I'm uneasy about removing a cast hub frozen to the pulley and to the impeller shaft.