Outdoor Power Equipment (Lawn Mowers, Snow Blowers, Chain Saws and more) Discussions

Hello,

This is my first post here.

I recently got a used old Honda HS35 snowblower for $80.

It starts and runs with choke 'closed'. The choke knob is loose, moves around with the vibration.And when I put the choke on 'open' position it most of the time surges (up and down). I added some seafoam and noticed that it helped it stabilize on that day. I started it again today and it still surges when the choke is 'open' during the first few minutes, then stabilizes. Is this normal?  To start the machine the choke needs to be 'closed' or it won't start.

 This is my first snowblower, I have not worked on a snowblower before.

Auger's rubber parts are not new, the previous owner said he replaced them 3 years ago.It looks like rubber parts are worn by about half an inch maybe.Because I can see where the tip of the rubber was at one point by looking at the very thin end of the rubber.

Scraper bar is not rubber, it looks like it is made from harder plastic and the edges have 3-5 indents froms scraping. Do I have to replace these this year or will they work for now?

Is the price I paid fair for the machine I described above? Is it too much?

Thanks.

The HS35 is an old snowblower and Honda doesn't support this model anymore.  A lot of parts are obsolete, remaining available parts are quite expensive.  Check ebay from time to time.  You may get lucky and find the parts you need.

The other HS621 looks in good shape, almost no rust on the bucket or the fasteners.  Looks like this machine was not used very much.  You determine if the rubber paddles need replacement by measuring how much rubber is protruding from the metal edge on the auger itself.  If it is less than .6 inch, then it needs replacement.  Scraper bars are still easily available.  Make sure that the scraper bar still has enough material, otherwise, the pavement will grind away at the metal bucket.  Make sure you check and tighten all the nuts on the metal chute.  I've lost quite a few nuts falling off at inopportune times.  If you can, replace them with nyloc type nuts.  They have plastic inserts to prevent metal on metal loosening.

Visually, the HS621 still have enough rubber on the paddles to go through this winter.  It's a good machine.

aa335 wrote:

Thanks for the reply.

6 inch from where? When I look at the new part pictures the rubber's width does not look like it is not 6 inches even when brand new.

The manual says:

'Measure the distance from the outer edge of the auger (the metal parts paddles are bolted on or the housing?) to the outer edge of the rubber paddles.The paddles are worn out and should be replaced, if the distance is less than 15mm (0,6 inch).'

Did you mean 0,6 in? Or is it a different measurement?

The scraper bar, the hard plastic part of it has one broken part less than1/5 in in width and 2 in in length at the end of the scraper, not seperated from the main plastic yet.Is this hard plastic the material you mentioned?

Thanks again for your suggestions.

blumonster wrote:
0.6 inches from the metal auger edge.

Thanks.

bluemonster,

I had an issue with my choke as well because it was not connected.  Please take a look inside and make sure the Choke knob rod is connected to your carburator. I had to put some paint on the metal rod to make it thick and now the Choke knob does not move around and moves as directed so it works great. 

If  you don't have the choke working, it would be very hard to start.  I should be getting my OEM scrape bar and belt next Tue so I will can finish the project for now,  Your rubber pedals are no good and they are too worn out.  These rubber augers are real pain in the neck to install.

I do not know any efficient way to install them.  $36 is the best price I got including shipping.  These are not OEM as they are about twice as much. We will find out when we get some real snow.

Replacing those rubber auger in the HS621 is quite a chore too.  There are a lot of fasteners.  Make sure you inspect the condition of the fasteners, throw out the badly corroded one.  Also use anti-seize compound on the threads, lightly.

Do you think your Toro would be easier?  How's your father HS520 to change?  I think they are about the same.  The curves on the auger rubber make it very difficult to align them.   I am sure it is not time yet. It took a lot of brute force to get them off and install them.

MN_Runner wrote:
The Toro is easier for sure, there are a lot less fasteners, the rubber is soft, and they use hex on both sides.  Two box end wrench or socket on each side is all the two tools you need.  They use standard fasteners that can be found anywhere.

The HS520 would be similar to the HS35.  Don't tighten any fasteners until you get all of them in, this give you some flexibility and movement to align the holes. 

First curved rubber took me 45 min because of the learning curve then it was okay but still not that easy.  Having hard rubber makes it difficult when you have to curve it.

MN_Runner wrote:

I did that, thank you MN_Runner.I think the wire like rod was not fully on where it was supposed to be.I will do the paint trick also.Thank you.

Did you use two socket wrenches at once?Can I use a plier at one end (washer)?

All the bolts I can unscrew up to a point without the second wrench, then they do not move at all.I left it like that yesterday.Sprayed some more PB.

Manual suggests using soapy water to make it easier but I wonder if it would really work...Slippery...

Scraper bar was the easiest part, so you are done preparing the snow blower for the season then. :)