Outdoor Power Equipment (Lawn Mowers, Snow Blowers, Chain Saws and more) Discussions

Thanks for taking a look.  If I could get my friend to sell me his tractor I could plan on using the SH561 that I'm borrowing.  I guess?  From what I could make out from the spec sheets it looked like it might be a little
under rated (8A) for my 10A coils.  But I'm not sure whether that would really make any difference.  I'm never going to have anything on the blower that would pull a constant 10A or even close to that.  Keeping the battery charged, running the small I believe 25W light and maybe running my chute control motors.  But they draw very little as well, and it's just a momentary draw.
 I have a wiring diagram for the Honda tractor (HT3810) that the SH561 Rec. came off of.  But the scan of the diagram was so poor that it's hard to make out things out, it's just not a clear and sharp diagram.
It also doesn"t show exactly what terminal are what on the rectifier. It just shows five wire in a row and where they are routed to.  Not much help.

Don't know whether this was just a typo.
" Edit: I found a wiring diagram for a water craft that uses the SH589, but it only shows 4 wires connecting to it".
Should be SH586B don't know what the B stand for.
Thanks again I really appreciate your help.

jrtrebor wrote:
Nope. Not a type-o. The SH589 is listed in the table in your link right above the SH561. I was thinking that if the others were shunt style regulators, a diagram of an SH589 might help since google hits on sh561 were few. I get a lot of Kawasaki hits when searching.

I found a manual for the HT3810 on line. http://www.hondapowerequipment.com/pdf/manuals/31750713.pdf

It looks like the far left is ground, the next 2 are the coil connections, the 4th is the IGN terminal and the far right is the Battery. It may be that the IGN terminal needs to be connected to the B+ connection when running. That's the only reason I can think of that the IGN wire goes to the Ignition switch. In the diagram it also shows it (IGN) connection to the B+ feed to the fuse block lending more credence to my theory that the IGN terminal needs B+ to function when running.

JimmyM wrote:
Didn't know on the typo, thought Id ask.
What could happen to the coils, rectifier etc.   If the ground wire (far left)  and the Battery (far right) were hooked up wrong?   In others words the Battery terminal got hooked to ground and the ground terminal got hook
to battery.  The reason I ask is that when I look at the plug that plugs into the rectifier on the Honda tractor.
 The far left terminal wire is white -  the center terminal wire is blk with yellow stripe - and the far right terminal wire is black. That's different than what the wiring diagram seems to show.  I realize that there is really
no way of knowing whether your seeing the plug from the front or back in the wiring diagram.  So I have just be assuming that I should go by what I see on the tractors plug.

 Far left (1st) terminal   Center (2nd) terminal.  Far right (3rd) terminal is hooked to ground.    (Battery is hooked in system).

This morning when I check things again I got different readings than last night. The center 2nd terminal was putting out less than last night when I checked it.
Reading off 1st terminal @ idle 14.5V........    @ full throttle 17.8V.     Reading started at at 16.5V when I first made connection then built up to 17.8V

Reading off 2nd terminal (center) @ idle 12.5V.........  @ full throttle 12.5V   Last night 13.5V idle   13.5V full T

Neither set of readings seem to be optimal.  The 14.5v is ok but the 17V is to high.
The 12.5V would be ok but I'm not sure that the 12.5V is enough to keep the battery charged with the light on.  But maybe it would be.  The engine fires right up so I really don't need a whole lot from the battery.

.

It doesn't make sense that the voltage in the one test was 13.5 at idle and only 12.8 at full throttle, unless the voltage regulator is sensing that the battery if full and is cutting back the charge rate.  maybe try the test again with the light on.   If the charge rate with the light on and the battery connected, while not the idle voltage 12.8 should still maintain the battery.   Good luck


Carl

carlb wrote:
carlb. I revised some of the readings that I posted in my previous post.  I do get readings that seem to fluctuate not sure what that is about.

I think it's time for me to end this thread or at least stop posting new information.  I need to keep reminding myself that the Rectifier that I am using is off a Honda garden tractor.  It has it's own electrical system.
Lights,switches, relays, fuel pump, safety switches etc.
That rectifier is not the correct one called for by Honda for my engine and coil combination.  So expecting to see voltage number that are what I think they should be is kind foolish on my part. It's not the correct rectifier.
I'm getting at least 12+ volts at idle and full throttle out of the center terminal.  That should at least keep me from discharging the battery to a level below where it won't start the blower.  I would hope.  Running my light won't put much drain on the system.
Maybe I will be able to find the correct rectifier at a price I can justify buying.  Normally they are around $120.00 to $140.00.  I only paid $130.00 for the engine. I've got a lawn mower junk yard about 20 miles from me.
I will probably take a run by there and see what I can find.  Thanks for everyone's help, I've learned somethings.  Now I know enough to fill a shot glass, LOL. 
I'm still open to any and all comments that you knowledgeable posters may have.

Check the battery voltage with the engine off, it should be around 12.5 12.6 volts.  If you can maintain 12.5 volts with the engine running and the light on you will probably be ok.

carlb wrote:
Thanks, I will do that.

carlb wrote:
I checked the battery, it was reading 12.5V.  At idle and full throttle with the light on I was getting a steady reading of 11.9V.
I also disconnected both battery cables, and at both an idle and full throttle I got nothing out of the light.  Not even a faint dim glow.
Even the two small LED marker lights I have showed nothing.  And those draw hardly any power at all.  That seems odd to me.
Why would the coils not be putting out enough to at least light the LEDs??  I think I need to leave the battery disconnected and
start over. See what readings I get right off the rectifier terminals. Or right off the coil wires themselves.  But that's AC I believe.
And I'm not sure what readings to even look for, or to expect.
It was easier to figure out and repower the blower than it's been to figure out this electrical stuff.,,, LOL sort of. 
May I should just strap a car battery to it and throw a charger on it every once in a while.  This is making me crazy.

check the voltage coming out of the coil before the rectifier.  It should be AC but some of them are DC.  if you get an AC reading connect it to your rectifier and take a reading on the output side of the rectifier using the DC setting.   If your coil is actually putting out DC you do not need the rectifier because the light doesn't care AC or DC and the Battery needs DC.

Good luck

carlb wrote:
If it is AC coming out of the coil.  Any thoughts as to what kind of readings I may see on the meter?  Last time I tried reading the out put of the coils on the AC setting of the meter.
I was seeing numbers that were no where near 12.xxV.  If I remember correctly they were in the 0.0xx range and they were constantly changing (maybe I had the meter hooked up wrong)?  Should I be seeing something around 12V.  Thanks!