Abby’s Guide > Outdoor Power Equipment (Lawn Mowers, Snow Blowers, Chain Saws and more) > Discussions > Ariens Project #4

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jrtrebor

Location: Michigan - 3 hours north of Chicago on the lake
Joined: Feb 10, 2010
Points: 539

Ariens Project #4
Original Message Oct 15, 2011 9:35 pm

Finished redoing the dash on my blower
The new Honda 13hp engine I got to repower the blower (again)
was in great shape. Has the electric start and a 10A charging coil.
But it didn't have any of the wiring. No key switch, no rectifier, nothing.
All the factory stuff is way out of my budget so It had to go old school.
With an ignition on/off switch. (The old one that was still on the blower)
And a starter push button. Which meant that I had to rewire the whole
ignition system from the engine to the dash.
That is how things got started.
Then being the way I am, I couldn't just run new wire and leave it at that.
What's the fun it that. Anyway it's finished.
Just need to get a new impeller bearing and flanges and I can put the whole blower
back together and mate it to the tractor.

This message was modified Oct 18, 2011 by a moderator

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jrtrebor

Location: Michigan - 3 hours north of Chicago on the lake
Joined: Feb 10, 2010
Points: 539

Re: Ariens Project #4
Reply #2 Oct 15, 2011 10:29 pm

Yes your right, I could have used the wiring off the Greyhound. But I'm thinking about selling the engine. Or putting it on another old
Ariens that has a 24" blower. That would make a pretty good machine.
It think the only reason I haven't done that. Is because I would have to make another
belt cover. Which is kind of a pain.
I do like having the starting controls on the dash it's kind of nice.
The only other issue with using the Greyhound wiring was the rectifier.
The Greyhound has a 3A coil and the Honda has a 10A.
I didn't even know what coil I had to start with.
Honda makes a bunch of different coils. With multiple terminal configurations.
And finding good pin out wiring diagrams is almost impossible.
There all kind of generic. I'm still not sure that I have the right one.
And I think I probably don't, but it was the only one I could find and afford. I won't be drawing that much current so I think I'll be okay??
A friend of mine has an old Honda HS3810 garden tractor that I know has the rectifier that
Honda calls for. But he hasn't decided if he will let me part it out. If he does, I'm going to
pull the whole harness, fuse block, rectifier and key switch. And put it on my blower.

This message was modified Oct 18, 2011 by a moderator

carlb

Joined: Nov 16, 2010
Points: 279

Re: Ariens Project #4
Reply #3 Oct 16, 2011 7:54 am

Looks great, you can buy bridge rectifiers that will easily handle 50 amps for a few dollars.

jrtrebor

Location: Michigan - 3 hours north of Chicago on the lake
Joined: Feb 10, 2010
Points: 539

Re: Ariens Project #4
Reply #4 Oct 16, 2011 10:36 am

carlb - Thanks for your comment. I don't think I know what a bridge rectifier is.
I only know enough about that kind or stuff to get me by.
What are they, and where might I find information, and prices.
for my application
Thanks

This message was modified Oct 18, 2011 by a moderator

carlb

Joined: Nov 16, 2010
Points: 279

Re: Ariens Project #4
Reply #5 Oct 16, 2011 10:51 am

Here is a link to a small bridge rectifier on Ebay. It is rated at 6amps at 50 volts or 300 watts. your altenator should be putting out around 150 watts max. You can buy much larger rectifiers if you have the space to mount for just penny's more. A bridge rectifier is a 4 pole device that takes in AC voltages and rectifies it to Dc voltage. AC in DC out.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-pcs-Diode-Bridge-Rectifier-RS601-6-Amps-50-V-piv-/160599857647?_trksid=p5197.m263&_trkparms=algo%3DSIC%26itu%3DUCI%252BIA%252BUA%252BFICS%252BUFI%252BDDSIC%26otn%3D12%26pmod%3D160581202605%252B300554883208%26po%3DLVI%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D3518189249250848288

JimmyM

Joined: Dec 20, 2009
Points: 82

Re: Ariens Project #4
Reply #6 Oct 18, 2011 2:20 pm

carlb wrote:

That's 6A MAX at 50V MAX.

10A will kill it. The internal Diodes are rated for only 6A each. You need a bridge rectifier rated for a minimum of 10A.

Here's a nice one that will handle everything you can throw at it, has nice terminals for blade connectors and a central hole for bolting it to the bottom of your dash or where ever.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-20A-1000V-Metal-Case-Bridge-Rectifier-SEP-KBPC2010-/120768921130?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c1e637e2a

carlb

Joined: Nov 16, 2010
Points: 279

Re: Ariens Project #4
Reply #7 Oct 18, 2011 3:40 pm

JimmyM wrote:

Thats 6 amps at 50 volts or to use a common unit of measure 300 watts.
A load of 10 amps at 12Volts is only 120watts.

The 6amp 50 volt will easily handle the 10 amps at 12vdc.

and yes as i said larger ones are available for penny's more.

This message was modified Oct 18, 2011 by carlb

jrtrebor

Location: Michigan - 3 hours north of Chicago on the lake
Joined: Feb 10, 2010
Points: 539

Re: Ariens Project #4
Reply #8 Oct 18, 2011 10:42 pm

Thanks for the link to the Bridge Rectifiers. My problems is, that I would have no idea what to do with them. How to hook them up, what wire to run where.
I have very little knowledge of components like that. I know that they will take AC voltage and convert it to DC. But I don't know whether they will also provide
a stable and consistent 12V and Current. Or whether I would need another component to do that. I have no idea.

carlb

Joined: Nov 16, 2010
Points: 279

Re: Ariens Project #4
Reply #9 Oct 19, 2011 9:53 am

The power coming from your charge coil will be ac and it doesn't matter which wire you hook up to where on the AC side. On the output side which is DC it will be marked + and -. Your voltage will vary with rpm as the output will increase as the engine speed increases but that is not a concern. I don't think any small air cooled engine uses a voltage regulator. Even automotive alternators will normally charge to 14.5VDC. Any DC device you hook up on your snow blower be it a light or hand warmers will not care if the voltage varies some.

Carl

jrtrebor

Location: Michigan - 3 hours north of Chicago on the lake
Joined: Feb 10, 2010
Points: 539

Re: Ariens Project #4
Reply #10 Oct 19, 2011 1:19 pm

carlb - Thanks for your post. I borrowed the rectifier off my friends Honda tractor. It's I believe the one Honda calls for to use on my engine. I hooked it up and took some measurement with a voltmeter.
At idle I was getting an output of around 8.6V. At full throttle it jumps up to right at 30V.
So I guess I'm going to need some type of regulator? I believe that 13.8V is about all you want to feed a battery?
The new rectifier has 5 terminals. 2 for the 2 wires coming from the Coil.
1 goes to ground. And from looking at a wiring diagram for the tractor and the tractor itself. It looks like one goes to a fuse block (blk w/yelllow stripe) that powers a few relays. And the last wire (white) goes to the key switch "bat" terminal. But has a splice along the way that goes to the battery + side. It is fused between the splice and the battery. Was getting the same V reading from both terminals white wire and blk w/yellow.

friiy

Location: Las Vegas, The Desert
Joined: Apr 12, 2008
Points: 600

Re: Ariens Project #4
Reply #11 Oct 19, 2011 1:24 pm

HA HA....... Put the Rectifier in the handle bar and make a heater for the grip.....

Looks nice, did you make the Speed selector plate yourself ?

Friiy

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