Outdoor Power Equipment (Lawn Mowers, Snow Blowers, Chain Saws and more) Discussions

Does anyone have any idea of what the A and Y terminals do inside the switch? I've used an ohm meter and it appears as if neither of them connect to any other terminal in any position. It's a Stens 430-674 aka AYP14031. 7 terminal 4 pos.

 I'm looking to rewire my Case 446 with a Kawasaki engine. The PO put in a switch with no M terminal and I'm replacing it. It currently has a relay off the light lead that grounds the magneto when the key is shut off.

 I'm hoping to avoid having to splice the regulator output, dashboard voltmeter and its light, headlights, and fuel solenoid all to the L terminal.

 Here's a schematic of one in use:
Notice they connect L and A externally? And it looks like there should be +12 placed on Y, I just can't figure out where it comes from.

I don’t know the internals but have some comments.

Going by the reference at the bottom when the key is off things are grounded through M.

There is no light switch shown.  Lights are gotten with the ignition switch in the Run/Lights position.

In Run/Lights position after start, M is removed and the connection A Y is “made”.  

If the key goes to the Run position that connection is not “made”.  The reference at the bottom implies switching. 

Did you buzz it in the Run/lights position?

The drawing splits off the regulator line at a junction before A and the run to the fuel solenoid and hour meter.   They

broke out the run to A to feed the post for some reason and going to Y makes sense (switched to Y). 

You did say you buzzed it out so this is a head check for the Run/Lights position versus Run.

Update:

   They use "make" which I can't remember seening before.  If "make" means a physical connection it would defeat the purpose of having a 4 position switch and the lights would be on all the time after start. 

>>>Notice they connect L and A externally?

Not a big deal as electrically they are the same place.

>>>And it looks like there should be +12 placed on Y

That would keep the lights on all the time and defeat the purpose the Run/Lights position of the 4 position switch.

Make A + L has got to mean switched. 

Gave me something to look at trouts, Thanks! I overlooked "run/lights" because I am using an external light switch. I just checked A & Y in Run. I picked this switch cause I need the magneto kill lead (M). I'll look at it again and come back and update this.

Bingo. That'll teach me to rush. A & Y are common in the Run/Lights position ONLY. Not in Run. I did all my testing in Run. My bad.

So with the way this thing is wired, when you are in Run/Lights, you have all the Run leads (L) plus the Y lead, since A and L are hard wired. Ingenious. I'll run Y to the switch that picks headlights, flashers, or both. I'll post my schematic once I have it all figured out & wired & tested.

Trouts - All done except for a few parts to get the lights completed. It all works fine. I modified the existing schematic rather than build my own from scratch.
From the factory it only had headlights, and it had an ammeter. I like it better my way

   Nice job on the schematic.   What did you use for software?

 

   I’m not familiar with riders and tractors so the machine having backup lights seemed odd.  I poked around for the 446 and it looks like small but real “tractor”.   I found a video with one having a front end loader which seemed fairly substantial.  Can that thing take a back hoe or a smaller digger on the front end?  

   I’ve got a camp in Oquossoc next to Rangeley on posts and pads.  Each year it goes all over the place with the frost heaves and does not settle fully until July.  It’s screws up the doors and windows and no telling what will be out of whack each year.   Each summer I do a session of jacking but I keep threatening myself with buying a tractor and putting in a cellar.  The idea is something like get the house up a foot or two then dig out underneath with a small tractor.

Thanks, I used Visio and blanked out a lot of the original schematic, then added all my changes. The lights I'm adding to the rear aren't backup lights, but a wigwag setup for when I hit the street while snowblowing/plowing. I figure in bad weather I want to be sure they know I'm there. If I can find a cab I'll add a beacon to the top of that.
The 600 series has a FEL and optional backhoe, but they're pretty rare used. For a job that big I'd be tempted to bite the bullet and rent something larger and get it done fast. People have added FELs to 400's, and even 200's (the small wheel version), but the frame isn't made for that load. It's fine if you don't go overboard (snow or mulch not stones). Case beefed up the frame and created the 600 series just for that.

446 setup for snowblowing in my driveway this year: