Outdoor Power Equipment (Lawn Mowers, Snow Blowers, Chain Saws and more) Discussions

I have a Simplicity I75246E snowblower. I was using it today and the auger drive belt came off. When I went to put the belt back on the pulley, I noticed that there was about 1/2" of play in the pulley. By this, I mean that I can move the whole assembly (pulley, impeller, and shaft to auger gear box) back to front horizontally a good 1/2". The worm shaft actually slides in/out of the auger gear box. All of the bolts seem to be tight. The belt/pulley has worn a small groove in the plastic belt cover, so I'm assuming that something is worn or broken. Any suggestions on what parts or adjustments I should be looking at? Sorry if my terminology and descriptions are confusing. I'm mechanically inclined, but have very limited experience with snowblowers. Thanks

>>Well, I pulled it apart after I got off work today.

 

Very fast, so you’re competent and capable. 

 

>>The bushing (#7) behind the thrust collar looks like it should have a shoulder on it according to the drawing. Mine doesn't have that shoulder, so I am guessing that is what the metal flakes and chunks are that are embedded in the grease of the gear box.

 

    Yep, and also a flat on the flange(shoulder).  Check the case halves as there should have been a flat step molded into the case halves for the flat on the flange bearing to rest against.  I’ve seen the step worn away. 

 

>>The grease seems to be kind of heavy for a winter gear box, especially since I live in one of the coldest spots in the country.

 

    Was the grease spread against the case and not lubing?  Generally the grease type is selected for preventing leaks as opposed to any superior quality in the grease for lub’ing.  They are all EP and lub well enough.  You could use an EP 00 or something more liquid in cold temps like Ariens L2 (good) or L3 (better).   When you put it together you can get a new gasket if used or they may call for something like loctite liquid gasket.  Anything will work well enough when new for sealing.   You can add Permatex or loctite to a paper gasket for insurance against leaking. 

 

>>Other than the bushing & gear box gasket, are there any other parts I should replace while I have it apart-seals, etc.? The worm drive/gear look like they are in good shape.

 

   Give the worm gear a very close check.  If deformed it can go through a gear fairly quickly.

   I’d be a bit nervous if I could not come up with a reason for the condition of the back flange bearing wearing like that.  It could have gotten nuked because something else was loose then putting force on the bering’s flange and case step flat.  It should not have been turning because of the step and the flat on the flange of the bearing.  What else moved before that?

Possibly it could have worn by strong pushing of the flange flat against the step flat.  Something might have caused pinching or binding of the drive shaft to the inside to the flange bearing, grabbing it and causing it to wear into the step flat by force from the drive shaft directly.

 Again, I don’t see  how you can have just a worn flange without damage to the step flat molded in to the case.  That’s the only thing it could have hit if everything else was ok. 

Is the collar dowel pin ok?  Seems like there should be collar damage or at least severe scratching on one side from the flange.

 

>>Any recommendations for a mail order parts store? Thanks for the help.

   Some places have some parts cheaper but others other parts for less but paying multiple shipping charges wipe things out.  You can google each part number and get prices for whatever you need. The flanges, collar, washers and seals will be cheap.  The worm and gear pricy.

 

   You’ll be ordering parts so have a week to think about how it got like that before assembly.

I was going to use the quote feature, but it looked more complicated than I was up for, so I'll answer your statements in order. It looks like only the right side case had the flat for the bushing, which is gone now. Thanks, I would have missed that. Adding a new R side case to my order list. There was a little grease on the gears, but the bulk of it was pooled in the bottom of the case. Temps of -30 to -40F are not uncommon here. It just seemed stiff even in my unheated garage which is warmer than outside temp. I'll see if I can order some L3. Is the Snapper 1704636 worm gear oil similar? Just curious because the place I'm thinking about ordering from (Norwalk PEC) lists the snapper lube but not the ariens. What exactly should the worm gear tooth profile be? Should the top of the tooth be flat or have a slight saddle where the worm drive contacts it? It looks like the pin is fine but the thrust collar definitely has scoring on it from rubbing on the now flangeless bushing. Another collar on the order too. Are the collar pins re-usable? According to the diagram, it is part #936098. I can find part #2936098 that crosses to part #2836098 but I'm not sure if they are all the same part or not. I appreciate the help. My order list keeps growing, but hopefully you are saving me the time & effort of more than one tear down.

>>>There was a little grease on the gears, but the bulk of it was pooled in the bottom of the case. Temps of -30 to -40F are not uncommon here. It just seemed stiff even in my unheated garage which is warmer than outside temp. I'll see if I can order some L3. Is the Snapper 1704636 worm gear oil similar?

    Synthetic 75W-140 GL5 MT-1 hypoid gear oil is -50 capable.  L3 is synthetic 75W-140 GL5.  The Snapper lub is “cold weather”, synthetic oil and probably 75W-140 GL5 also.  Ariens is ok and the Snapper also.

    

>>>What exactly should the worm gear tooth profile be? Should the top of the tooth be flat or have a slight saddle where the worm drive contacts it?

   There is a slight concave run on the top of teeth.  The wear is indicated by the thickness of the concave flat on the top of the teeth.  The tops should be smooth and unscratched.

 

>>>It looks like the pin is fine but the thrust collar definitely has scoring on it from rubbing on the now flangeless bushing.

  The collar is pinned to the shaft which with good parts has slight front to back movement.  I’m not sure about collar contact with the flange surface.  The worm is on the top of the gear and pulling forward as it moves the gear so probably no contact between flange and collar under load. You’ve ordered a collar so no issue.

 

>>Are the collar pins re-usable?

   Unless you took a hit I’d re-use it.  The pin is 3/16 x 1 ½ so you can pick that up locally.

Parts are ordered. Thank you so much for your assistance. I really appreciate it!

Every snowblower I service if the diff has gear oil I added gear oil IF IT HAS GREASE I ADD GEAR OIL to soften the grease. I see this all the time The grease has cupped or hardened and you have stripped gears. Very stupid idea putting grease vs gear oil in the diff. Just another way our manufactures got lazy and cheap. Oh you better use the proper grease or you will be doing the diff again in a few years. Next time it will take you half the time to do the diff.

I've always just used 90W gear lube and never had a problem. It box might ooze a little around the seals in the summer when it's hot out. But never had a problem when is get cold.
I've never really understood how any type of grease is supposed to work in a gear box that is exposed to freezing cold temperatures and sometimes surrounded by snow and ice.
It just doesn't seem like it could be anywhere near fluid enough in those conditions to keep the gears and shafts properly lubricated.