Outdoor Power Equipment (Lawn Mowers, Snow Blowers, Chain Saws and more) Discussions

It is almost February 1 and my thoughts are already turning to getting my JD x540 ready to start picking up "junk" left on the lawn from the storms. By the time we hit March 15th, the threat of snow is pretty well over. I've got to replace the blades, new gas filter, clean out the pre-air cleaner and power wash the underside of the deck.

In particular, I'll be changing the oil & filter which is not tricky as such, its just that the oil drain plug is in such a place that you can' change oil without it dripping on the engine, the frame, some mounting brackets, and of course the mower deck. There's got to be a better way. I thought I had it figured last year with a large funnel, but no go. You cannot fit a funnel back into the area where the oil drain plug is.

The engine is a Kawasaki V-Twin 25HP (which is not an easy starting engine, but it is commercial grade, and will apparently run forever), and there's nothing particularly interesting about it. I just hate cleaning up 4-6 ounces of oil left all over the engine.

I think the JD engineers were out to lunch on this one.

Ideas?

  I have a Kawasaki engine in one of my riding mowers too.    Put a rag under oil drain plug maybe and use a piece of 5/8" plastic line/hose to direct the oil into a suitable container.  Works for me.

I use a vacuum pump oil extracter. Does an OPE engine in about 5 minutes. Then, if you still want to pull the drain plug, you might get another ounce or two -- easy to catch with newspaper.

samdog wrote:

Any advice as to the "best" one?

There seem to be a lot of interest in oil changing solutions lately! Below is a picture of a product callet Drainzit which I have installed on all of my engines. I used it for the first time when I found it was standard equiptment on a Simplicity . I then put it on all my OPE. It comes in many thread sizes including those that fit Honda. Google Drainzit and you will find a chart. Most of the blowers we use will need the Stan1025 for 1/4" for Briggs and Tecumseh or the Hon1010 for the Hondas that take 10mm.

Marc

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cut the bottom off a windshield washer jug or gallon of mil and keep the cap ON. 

An assortment of cut bottles and containers for various engines types but there's always drips so rags for that.

$10 at Harbor Freight.  Takes a number of loads to remove the oil and will drip when taking out the tube so a catch and rag required.

samdog wrote:
Im skepticalabout using a vacuum extractor - probably wouldn't get the solid cruds lurking at the bottom of the case.  I  liike to see a full rapid flow of oil coming out that creates a flushing action.  On my equipment I just take a piece of corrugated cardboard folded into a vee shape and long enough to reach from the drain hole to a catch container and let er fly.

WOOF,

  The vacuum force will be much greater than gravity.  The particles in the oil will be minute, suspended after running and heating so lifted out. 

Dr_Woof wrote:

I run the oil to operating temp to suspend any solids before I vacuum it, then I pull the drain and let the remainder drip a while. I use Mobil 1 synthetic in all my OPE and change each season, so I'm confident sludge is not an issue. 

tkrotchko: "Any advice as to the "best" one?"

I have the CTA 7450. It appears the Pela, CTA and others in the 6.5 liter round unit are all from the same factory anyway. Should be able to pick one up for $60 or so. I get great use out of it.

The Drainzit hoses look like a pretty good solution as well.

But...the vacuum tube will always leave a little behind when it starts sucking air.  Oil and particulates laying on the bottom of the crankcase.  Gravity flow gets it all, especially if you tilt the blower towards the drain.