Outdoor Power Equipment (Lawn Mowers, Snow Blowers, Chain Saws and more) Discussions

Ok, so I picked up an old 1977 Ariens 8HP 24" 924026 blower back in September for $20.  Actually it was $20 each or $30 for both if I grabbed a walk behind leaf blower too.  Neither one were in great shape and both had been setting for quite some time.  I picked up a yard vac after that so didn't feel like messing with the leaf blower and sold that for $50 as-is.  Got the snow blower running with a carb clean out and rebuild and some new fuel lines.  Changed out some old bearings and bushings and put some new tires and an impeller kit on it and could not wait to try it out.  We got 2 snow storms of about 1-2" and obviously it handled those with no trouble.  Then we had 3" of snow.  Oh boy did I have lots of snow to play with then.  Well, I was admiring how far it was tossing a small drift in the back yard and the connecting rod exited the block...

Well, I like to go overboard so I also opted for the 11HP Greyhound instead of the more sensible 6.5HP one.

If it works out great, maybe I'll strip it down and repaint it so it doesn't look like crap.

Shyrp, I have almost the identical Ariens, and I'm tired of dinking around with all the little problems on the HM80. I'm seriously considering replacing it with a Greyhound 6.5. (Plus I have a real greyhound, so this makes it even better.) How compatible were the dimensions on the 6.5? Did everything line up okay? Do these engines seem happy in the cold weather without a heater box on the carb? Thanks!

I used an 11 HP Greyhound on this so I had to slide the engine back a bit and drill new holes.  I also had to rig up the belt cover since the crank on the 11 was higher than the HM80.  The belts also had to be longer.  The base on the 11 is also a bit wider which causes the holes to be drilled really close to the frame edges.  It is a tight fit, but they just barely fit.  I did have trouble getting a socket on the bolt that ends up under the pivot point for the friction drive engagement as the bracket under the frame is kind of in the way.  It clears once tightened down, but I had to fiddle with moving the lever a bit and then pushing the arm out of the way to force the socket on.

Full left on the chute and it hits the muffler on the new engine.  I believe the old engine did the same thing as well.  It is well past 180 degrees and it hits right about the same time the ring gear runs out of teeth so that is not much of a problem.  Full right stops right past 180 degrees,  The chute ends up hitting the belt cover I made and I can hear the crank/pulley rub if I try to force it more.  It gives plenty of turn for me though.  I might pull the cover off and try to see what is rubbing and see if I can reshape it to give a little more turn when it warms up.  It works well enough that I do not consider it a problem though.

The heavier engine and moving it back has made the front end a little light.  I have been thinking of adding some weight on the scoop to counter balance it better.  It is usable, but has a tendency to wheelie a lot.

The 11HP is almost twice the size of the 6.5.  I put a 6.5 on a Toro 3521 and it was an exact replacement for the H35 that was on it.

I think the 6.5 and the HM80 are the same, but I have not compared them myself.

I have had no problems with either engine in regards to cold temperatures or icing of carb or governor.

The 6.5 always needs choke to start, even if warm.  The 11 seems to behave more normal and not need the choke so much.  It doesn't really bother me though.

The 6.5 almost always starts on the first pull, the 11 usually takes 2.  But, I always seem to forget to give the 11 throttle and attempt to start it at idle.
(The throttle lever on the 11 is hidden a bit more and I always forget about it for some reason.)

AlwaysFixing, the 6.5 Honda clone fits right on, has clearance with the chute crank for the head, and belt cover fits. 

The existing motor mount studs are too short.  Cut and drill and bolts from the bottom will match the bolt holes on the engine.  I've converted two of that style, 924032 and 924035.  I forget which model it is but one model requires you grind off side section of the flange bolt to fit.  

The machine tosses very well with the 6.5. 

I have to choke to start 6.5's and it's the same for real Hondas.

You don't need to cut and drill the studs.  A hammer knocks them right out.

   How does one get to know that.  Is one's approach to alway try hammering first?

Yes.

Thanks, once spring gets here, I'm shopping for a greyhound.