Outdoor Power Equipment (Lawn Mowers, Snow Blowers, Chain Saws and more) Discussions

The manual, page 24, states that the attachment pulley is held (and adjusted)on by set screws. the manual suggests that one gets to them by removing belt cover.

i see the set screws on the engine sheave(?) But where are the set screws on the attacment pulley.

On the shaft??? i just do not see them.

 Are they accessed to w/ just the belt cover off?  Are hey hex nuts?  figure 21 does not point them out.

also how does the idler puley adjust left and right. i To center the belt)   I  see how it goes in and out..

 thanx.

gripes:

Ithe manual

a)could be clearer;

b)the nut sizes could be indicated

c)  the applicable picture and`text could be on same page.  (i printed a manula from he web site and still the diagrams can be 3 pages from the text.

II  speed selector.

the shaft does not fit into the fastest gear foward notch. even when  it is disconnected from the shaft

III adjustments:

why???? aren't cars more complicated. And usually hey are fine off the lot.

I know nothing about your machine. Generally or in particular.

Why? Are the pulleys out of alignment?

The setscrews on most pullys are 90 degrees apart and in the hub, with one directly over the key. If there are two. If only one it should be over the key.

If there is no hub, the set screw(s) might be in the v groove. you might need to take the belt off to see it.

In general, I would like the engine pulley sort of close to the engine. As it gets further out it puts more load on the last bearing.

Robmints,

The adjustment is part of the 15 minute break in he belts are riding on the pulleys,  but the pulleys do not seem to adjust (left and rt).  the attachment pulley may be slightly  so i would like to adjust it.

I know nothing about your machine. Generally or in particular

But, it would be my guess that you should be adjusting an idler or a cable controlling an idler to compensate for belt stretch. You should not need to adjust for pulley alignment unless there was something wrong with the assembly of the machine.

Is there a problem with getting the dealer to do the adjustments?

I have an 8526 which needed the belt adjusted after an hour of use.  The belt was slipping so much the auger stoped turning; had to move the idler onto the inner mounting hole to get it going agian.  Thought I'd adjust the belt at the first oil change, but it didn't wait.

First, adjust the cable as instructed in the manual.  If the auger still isn't working properly, remove the plastic cover over the belts by undoing the two bolts that go through it.  You'll see the idler pulley at the 11:00 position if you were standing in front of the machine.  Unbolt it using a socket wrench and you'll see the second mounting hole.  You won't see the second hold unless you remove pulley wheel.  Note the order of the parts when you are taking it apart, and also note the forward side of the pulley.  A momentary squeal while you're pressing on the handlebar lever to engage the auger is normal.  You should also check that the belt guiding fingers and other things are inline and turn true as they should be.  Haven't done it, but someone on this board mentioned a little Ivory soap as a belt dressing.  Someone else used a conventional belt dressing with bad results.

Hope that helps.  Mine's been fine after about 6 hours of use since adjusting. 

Was that you in front  of me buying the 8526 snowblower at the Home Depot in Watertown?

the shaft does not fit into the fastest gear foward notch. even when  it is disconnected from the shaft

Do you have a digital camera so someone that knew might be able to help?

robmints ihave a digital camera,but havent done the photo buket thing.  the selector just does not physiaclly go onto the final notch.

newtonian ,

i will look for that whole,,,,,,,,,,,,,But still how do u adjust  the attachment pulley?  (big black wheel on on bottom)

and  isnt there  a way to  make les substantial adjustments  so the belt rides on the  idker pulleys more evenly)?


( although i did get the blower @ watertown t was the 11526.)

ps i listed and sold  a starter on craig's list. guy called me and asked if was a 33328 or 29.  he said that there was a guy on ebay making a big point of that issue. i asked if was newtonian. he said that he did not know. Ps tthere is a guy on ebay from attleboro w/ a 33328.

Solara,

I brought up this question a while back. I think the manual was not updated. I see no set screws on my 11528 and the exploded view in Parts Radar shows none. I think they were eliminated in these current models and Ariens didn't reflect that in the manual. Perhaps Snowmann could comment.

Jonathan

I don't understand exactly what the adjustment is you are trying to make.  On mine, to adjust the belt tension it's the pulley that swings in and out as the handlebar lever is pressed and released that's adjustable.  I'd assume set screws are associated with sliding the pulleys on the shafts to align them so the belt travels straight. 

The adjustable pulley is about 2" diamater and has a single bolt holding it on.  You need to adjust the cable length before messing with the belt.  That's also in the book.

Thanks for the info on the starter I posted a long time ago.  The one I want to sell/exchange has become a paperweight in front of me... I should list it soon, but was hoping just to trade.  On Ebay they are about $100 - was hoping to get on the cheap side as it's a "retired" machine and it's just too hard on my shouler to pull the cord anymore.  You are sharp following the posts.

The belt tension adjustment instructions do include checking the alignment of the belts. However on Solara's machine as well as mine, the only set screws are on the engine sheave pulleys. There are none on the pulleys below which contradicts the manual. As far as I can tell, there is no way to change the position of the lower pulleys.

thanx jonathan. i thought i was imagining things..

i did the books adjustments. the belt sort of rides on the idler pulleys, but there seems no way to adjust  them front to back.

As to the gear selector i think that there is a problem w/ the "stamping" of the dash board. i looked at another one on the notches   are lower than  miine. ny notch panel appears to be part of dash. i know that i am doing a terrible job explaining this..

i think i will do  the adjs again. the interlock only works  when the engine is running full throttle and i really push on the attachment  handle.



newtonian i sold the 33329 on craig's list in hours. no shipping no bank accts.

solara: just posted starter on Craigslist, thanks for the incentive.

Solara,

The notches are in a separate piece of steel that is welded to the underside of the dash. I think that it may have been welded into a position a bit too far forward, making it impossible to get the lever into 6th gear. This could also pose a problem with slow reverse. You may want the dealer to check it out.

Jonathan

Jonathann,

Thanx i will look at  it probably on saturday. my job takes up most ofvthe daylight hours.

My dealer is HD so lawn/stiock boy  will not help.

even though it does not to into the notch i think i have all six speeds. i do have both reverses.  i will live w/ this. If it goes to  a dealer for any other reason i will ask then.

When i did the spring adj, i just measured it and it was right on. so i did not  shorten then lengthen.   the interlock only works if i really push down hard on the attachment clutch.    (HD said the machine HAD NO INTERLOCK) I am guessing that if i do the sping adj, step by step, the interlock will be less finicky.



Newtonian good luck w/ the starter.

Solara, I’m glad you have all speeds. I mistakenly thought you didn’t have 6th. Regarding the spring adjustment, after the initial run-in all I had top do was fiddle with the lock nut to get the proper difference in spring length when lever was up (clutch dis-engaged) and lever was down (clutch engaged). After I used the machine for blowing for about two hours I checked the spring measurements again and found the difference within specs, but barely. I moved in the idler pulley in a bit to get the difference at the higher end of the specs, making the belt tighter when clutch was engaged.. You may want to check the specs again if you have been using the machine since the last adjustment. In regards to moving the idler front to back to center it on the belt, I think the only way to do that would be to use a thinner/thicker washer on the inside or get a different length spacer. The idler on mine isn’t perfectly centered but the belt isn’t touching either side of it. Jonathan

Jonathan, you know  you see a notch and u just have a feeling that's where the selector goes. silly me.

Newtonian did a search ffor the starter. on craig's list boston. nothing popped up. r u sure it got published? They send u an email and u have to respond.

It's on Craigs... do search on Boston>General and search "starter".  Started price high anticiapting negotiation.

How'd the belt tturn out?

newtonian, now i see it. did a search for tecumseh.

good luck.  (i had bought mine for 5$. listed it for 65$. the guy that bought it showed me that the engagement gear was not   moving up and down the screw shaft.  i did not prev iouslyappreciate that.  the buyer offered me 50$ and i sold it.  the buyer used to make 3 wheeled cars in AZ.   he understood the problem (diagnosed and analyzed it) and knew he could fix it. bath it in oil.  he fixed it and installed it on a machine for 92 yr old father.
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i havent gone out to play w/ the blower. there  is that thing called a job.

the shed is not electrified in the winter and we have no garage..

other than the interlock being finicky, its fine. just trying to follow the ariens instructions.

sort of giving up on adjusting the pulleys front and back. the belts do ride a little on the pulley adjusters, but i do not want to start playing w/ spacers..