Outdoor Power Equipment (Lawn Mowers, Snow Blowers, Chain Saws and more) Discussions

   Picked up a Deere 826 yesterday.  The thing crapped out during the last storm with a brunt belt and the guy hurt is back shoveling so it got the boot. 

   Nice old buzzard rig but I can't find anything on it at the Deere site.  Anyone know where I can an exploded view?  I tried the usual places that have them and nothing on this one.   It's ID plate has P826J, 127489.  If I google P826J I get new models.  Nothing on the other number.

   The thing works fine after a belt replacement but it only tosses 3 - 8 feet with lots of low splatter.  I tried a few different belt sizes and tensions, and even over tight to insure no slip.  I can't see any slip with the cover off.  It has good grab, no crud in the V's, no obstruction in the housing.  It does have quite a distance from the arms to the lining, 1/2 inch.  The impleller is a 4 blade 12 inch and it should toss fairly well, 15-25. 

   Does anyone have this model and could tell me what it tosses like?  I can't see any problems so guess it's a design problem but at 3-8 feet hard to imagine they could make something that bad. 

   The motor certainly is not the problem, a Briggs Intek Snow 11hp a couple of years old.  I can drive into any condition snow and toss the same distance without engine sag.  Very impressive.  Anyone have a URL to an exploded view on the engine?  I can find one so I assume it a special for some maker.  It's got a 3/4 shaft.  3BSXS 3422HT 275387.  I can't get anything found at the Briggs site.  Googling I get 275385 which is a 10hp but nothing for 275487.  There are lots of hits for 3BXSX 3422HT but no motor like this.

Jrtrebor:>>If you have a 1/2" space between the impeller blade tips and the housing that is the problem, without question.

 

I agree.   The spacing and the very slow impeller rpm make a big problem.

 

   There are now five people I have heard of that have this style of Deere and have the distance problem.  A guy on another forum put CL’s kit in and is using his but he did not give the improvement over the original short distance.  Reading about his made me think about mine more.  I checked the impeller area again and realized I had ½ on one side and an inch on the other at 180 from the ½. 

   The impeller arms are very small to boot.  With a CL kit it would be good to extend past the flat up onto the curved part of the arm.  If mine got a kit I’d still be away from the barrel on 1/3 of the travel of the impeller.  I think mine has it’s impeller shaft hole slightly off from center.

I read it is straight down to 90 degrees out to the side of the chute that matters.  It was said that the rest doesn't matter.

Sorry Shryp, can you repeat that but differently?

Is that the last quarter of rotation before the chute?

Yea, I read somewhere that it is the last quarter of the sweep that really matters.

I got a chance to run my deere 826 today with the kit installed. There was a noticable difference. We had about 5 inches of dry, powdery snow today.

I noticed an improvement of about 25-30% in distance. This is in line with what I have read others are seeing. The real improvement is supposed to happen with the heavy, wet slushy stuff.

Anyway, it has turned the machine from being basically unusable to marginally acceptable. Definately not a good as a modern machine, but OK. My take on it is if you have an old machine that runs good but cannot toss well due to the huge impeller gap, it's worth the money. If you really want to pinch pennies, you could fabricate your own kit.

ahw2698 wrote:

That's great and about what I figured.  It would bring it just into acceptable.  If you put a three inch pulley on that it would get it even better.  I tried on mine but without a kit it did not make any difference.   I think the Deere is nice and like the auger clutch allowing a free hand.  It's like the old Ariens machines which are very easy to use.  The Deere seems very well built and mine is clean without rust.  I hate to just have it languish or get the boot for $50.

trouts2 wrote:
That sounds like a fun project for a nice summer day. If it's a bearing with a 2 or 3 hole flange, it wouldn't be too hard to move it over 1/4", or even swap out for a flanged bearing.  Maybe there's even a bigger impeller in your parts pile?

Edit to add: Just looked it up in the parts list. 3 hole flange on the bearing, that's good. But it looks like the impeller and shaft are one piece (?), if so, no swapping the impeller. Though it should make it easier to drill for the kit while it's apart.

What would it entail for me to step up to a 3 inch pully? What I have now is a "two in one" style pulley. One piece of metal with two wheels of the same diameter (2 1/2 I think). I would assume I would keep the drive pulley to same diameter and jump the auger pulley up to 3"? Would I be able to do this with two individual pulleys, or would I have to get a double with the 3 inch / 2.5 inch combo? 

The other question I have would be with what size auger belt I would need with the bigger pulley. Is sizing for that going to be trial and error?

Does the auger shaft wobble around in the bearing?  Maybe you just have a very warb bearing.

Woof, At least on mine the auger support bearing is fine. 

ahw,

   Double or single is ok.   Murrays have a dual that can be used.  I had to go up an inch on mine going from 2.5 to 3.  HW stores are pretty good about exchanging or returning belts.  If you can't locate pulleys email me for a possible second hand source.  Email at link below.