Outdoor Power Equipment (Lawn Mowers, Snow Blowers, Chain Saws and more) Discussions

So I FINALLY got to use it the other day. First thing I did was shake the 2 cycle can for a few minutes to make sure it was well mixed. Then I poured it in the tank. I took my glove off and pressed the primer bulb twice covering that little nub. Turned the key to on set the choke and pulled. It started on the third pull. First time starting. Cool!
We received about 7 inches of snow.

That Quick Shoot is just down right cool. I debated whether I wanted it and a glad I splurged. I did not try the electric start.
I have a flat double concrete drive and the Toro had it done in about ten minutes. SO much easier than shoveling plus I am not getting any younger. There is a learning curve but that is part of the fun! IT does throw the snow far, it was powdery. ON the EOD is bogged down a little but did not stall. On shut down it sounds just like a Lawnboy, given the engines heritage.
I am impressed with it and would buy another.

kellyinkc wrote:
Concrete and brick paver wear out rubber auger real fast, I think I got two seasons out of mine before I have to replace.  Of course it was aftermarket so it was cheaper made. 

Freshly sealed blacktop gives the longest wear.

Wear life also depends on how much you tip it forward and now much you let the auger spin on clean pavement.

aa335 wrote:
Thanks, I was thinking maybe getting a spare to have on hand. Time ti go look up the part.

kellyinkc wrote:
It wouldn't hurt.  But I think you have 2 or 3 more seasons to go through before wearing them out. 

Yes, I have one but only the recoil start version, it starts so easy, it started the other day in 20 deg without using the choke, I forgot to set it, still started on the first pull.

TORO should consider adding a thermostatic carb warmer, a metal plate that mounts between the carb and the intake manifold that runs from a small generator under the flywheel, like on some chainsaws. I've read some people in Canada have carb icing problems. Overall I'm really happy with this TORO.

I called the dealer and it runs about $50. It should be good for several seasons. He did say use 87 octane instead of 89 gas, something about the possibility of burning a valve.

"  He did say use 87 octane instead of 89 gas, something about the possibility of burning a valve. "

now you tell me ....put about a gallon of 89 octane gas through my 421QE  :(

alty wrote:

There was a thread on gas a while back. My dealer said to use 87 octane not higher. Air is thinner in the winter so that has an effect on it and super burns hotter to begin with.

Just purchased the 221QE from a local dealer who does work for most of pro landscapers in my area. His suggestion was 89 octane for what it's worth so that's what I'm using. Only used it twice so far with no ill effects but hopefully I got good advice and burning a valve will not be an issue. Do you have a link to that thread about fuel? Thanx.

Higher octane is for high compression engine as they are designed to detonate at high compression.  Honda and B&S small engines have around 8-9 compression ratio so these do not qualify for high compression engine so again why waste money on something that will not help at all.  But again, if using 89 or 92 octane makes you feel better, then use it.

If I understand it correctly, octane is a chemical that is added, at a cost to the buyer, to gasoline to make it less flammable.  It is a combustion retardant to allow the gas/air mixture to be compressed to a greater amount without pre-igniting due to heat etc. and making the engine knock or fight itself.  In other words, regular low octane gas burns better, more flammable.  Don't use an octane rating higher than what the engine maker calls for.

Please correct me if I am off on this.  Just a rookie.