Outdoor Power Equipment (Lawn Mowers, Snow Blowers, Chain Saws and more) Discussions

I've got a Yardman 644E, 8hp/24".  I ate a brick which stopped the auger, the shear bolts did not shear, two auger drive belts snapped.  I've replaced the belts, but had a difficult time starting the engine.  It ran for about ten minutes and the snow flew out of the shoot, so I'm thinking that part is repaired, but the engine putters to a stop after a few minutes.  It was running great prior to the brick.  I was hoping for a quick fix--gas line maybe?  So I changed the gas and checked the fuel line.  Looks okay to me.  But, the engine isn't doing well at all.  Timing?

It would be very difficult to start if the timing was off. 

Drain the fuel to see if it has water or dirt in it.  Then do a complete fuel system inspection to determine if fuel is getting to the carb.   If it is, drain the carb to see if the fuel in the float bowl is contaminated.

I'm a little surprised you didn't break a shear bolt.  I think I would check and make sure that you have actual shear bolts on your blower.  Not just regular bolts.
Just a thought.

Does it start fine now, then die under use?

Did the engine die when you hit the brick?

It is possible you have a partially sheared flywheel key.
It might have backfired that first time it ran after the fix and that threw it off even more.

Did you hit the brick recently, or is this something that happened last year and you got mad and stuck it in the shed for all summer?

Shryp wrote:
I concur with Shryp,

If the engine stopped suddenly from hitting the brick which i assume it did if it broke the belts i would be looking at the flywheel key as well.

Thank you for your quick responses:

borat, jrtrebor,Shryp, and carib:

The machine was bought new about four years ago.  I would expect the shear bolts to be new and part of the original equipment, but ya never really know for sure.  I'll check them out.

The brick was hit about two weeks ago.

The engine never died, but the auger quit immediately as the brick was wedged into the auger's discs.

I drove the machine up to the barn under its own power, it never balked, backfired, or made any sound other than usual.

After I installed the new belts and cranked it up, I didn't hear any backfiring. 

It has an electric start and per the instructions I did not prime it.  The engine started after a couple of cranks.

It pounded a bit until I adjusted the choke and then it ran pretty much as usual.

Snow shot out of the chute as it progressed along the drive for about 60 feet.  Then the engine died.

I used the pull starter about five times to get it going.  It would start each time, after a couple of pulls, but it would die in less than a minute.  I ended up pushing it to the barn.

Not too sound like too much of a smart ass, but does it have plenty of gas in it?

I did that once when I thought I had a half tank and only had a little left in the bottom.

Also check the oil.

There is the possibility you knocked something loose when you changed the belt.

Did you separate the front and back halves of the machine?

Did the back end crash down?

Being newer and MTD I would guess the only kill switch would be in the throttle.

Is the safety key all the way in the slot next to the choke?

The brick could have done some damage to the front end, but I can't think of anything that would cause it to kill the engine.

Loosen the gas cap too.  Sometimes the vent in the cap get plugged and it will cause a vacuum effect in the gas tank and prevent the gas from getting to the carb.
Everyone always reports the symptom for that as it will run fine for 5 minutes then die.  After sitting for a minute it will run again.

Shryp:

I had about a 1/4 tank when i encountered the brick.  And I filled it to about 3/4's of a tank after the belt change.

I changed the oil, gapped the plug, and filled the tank before the first snow.  I ran it successfully for three snowfalls.

To change the belts with this machine, probably others as well, you tip it forward and rest it on the mouth of the auger housing, and remove a six bolt panel on its bottom.  I found it an easier belt change if I taped the auger drive handle down.  This lifted the support bracket and allowed tight, but easier access to the belts.  I don't recall dislodging anything, but I'll take another look.

I lowered the machine back to its usual standing position, the back end never crashed down.

I can understand how a vacuum would interefere with the gas flow.  I'll loosen the cap and see if that does anything.

Also, the ignition is all the way in.  And I never had to separate the front and back halves of the engine.

AHA!!!  Fixed!!!...First thank you all for getting my brain into gear, considering all your helpful comments, and putting my feet on the right path.   About 5 a.m. this morning, while trying to grab another hour of sleep, thinking about your various advisements, a flash of inspiration occurred.  The one thing that I never mentioned because I thought it was insignificant...and the one thing out of the ordinary...was tipping the machine forward to get to the bottom pannel.  I began to wonder what if the float hung up?  Initially, it was suggested that I check the gas system.  I checked the tank, and the fuel line--but not the carb.  So, this morning, i decided to remove the carburetor and inspect the float.  After all, it ran fine after the belts broke, but not after I replaced the belts...so something happened in between.  BUT, before i did that i downloaded: http://www.cpdonline.com/692509.pdf

Glad I decided to read about the carb and its parts before I took a wrench to it...a lot of little things in there, and a warning to replace the gasket once the bowl has been separated from the carb.  Hmmmm...and then in one diagram, I saw the "screw."  And then my memory kicked in.  When I tipped the machine forward I was worried about gas spillage.  I put a sheet of saran wrap over the tank opening and screwed the cap down...and then, I pushed and turned the "screw" a little because I thought it was how you bleed the fuel bowl--I wanted to empty all the gas!  Well, guess what?  It isn't a fuel bleeder, but rather a "main adjustment screw" which meters the flow of gas into the carb.  And I did turn it...maybe a couple of times because the spring on it rotated and I wasn't sure if it was turning; or maybe it didn't need turning but pushing.  Anyway, I did disturb its original setting.

I played with it this morning and found the "sweet spot."  The engine runs well; the drive is now clear.  And, as my reward, its snowing again.

Thank you one and all again.

Ahh yes.  If you tightened the screw on the bottom of the bowl on the carb you basically turned the gas off going to the engine.  The stock setting is to unscrew it 1.5 turns.  Sounds like you found a good spot though.  Best to adjust under load with the engine warmed up so engage the auger when messing with it and possibly fiddle with it a tad as you run it into a snow bank.  You should get it right in the middle between bogging down and almost stalling and bogging down and spewing black smoke out the exhaust.

Glad everything is working once again.