Outdoor Power Equipment (Lawn Mowers, Snow Blowers, Chain Saws and more) Discussions

It’s confusing the way torque and power are talked about.  Maybe someone can square me away?  The confusion is people referencing max torque of engines from torque curves.

 

Related to snowblowers only.  The following are not statements of fact.  They are my understanding.

 

Torque is the guy that tosses the snow, the lifting energy.   Power (speed) is also a factor.  Together they make up the needed elements for throughput related to torque (how much can be gobbled up) and power (distance of toss from engine/impeller speed). 

 

Torque and power have to be considered together at the useful “range” which for a snowblower is max throttle, max RPM.  For the RPM part that is max under load so 3600 drooping to ?? unsure but a guess 3000. 

 

People talk about how much torque is available for a given engine and those figures usually reference torque curves. Referencing torque curves seems useless for a snowblower because it’s never operated in the range of RPM where max torque happens.   Any references to these numbers for a snowblower are meaningless.

 

The only part of a torque curve that is the meaningful for snowblowers is the far end (not max torque from the curve) and that happens at 3000 to 3600 (the far end).   

 

Is the above right?  Max torque from curves is not useful for a snowblower.  It’s what is at the far end of the curve that is meaningful for snowblowers.  The 3000 to 3600 section of the curve.  No one runs their engine at 2400 RPM. 

Personally, I'd like to see the max torque at about the 3000 RPM point. That way, you still have more RPM to keep impeller speed up to prevent throwing distance from falling off too much.

JimmyM,

    I agree but I assume the design guys know how to get the most out of an engine and make the curve appropriate for home use with that in mind.  It just my not understanding it. 

jrtrebor:>>The engine sound tells you.  When the engine really starts to bog down and lose RPM, but your still moving forward, your there.  It has a totally different sound than just being loaded, full on the governor.  Just my thoughts.

    Very subjective language but I agree.  The tach is in the mail, actually tach(s), two lazer and an inductive.  The lazers were $8 and $24, the inductive $18.  If the inductive works out I'll pickup a bunch to slap on machines.  I want to be able to get an RPM reading for what I hear.  I think of the sound in 4 categories, 1. no load, 2, just exercizing the governor with very light load, 3, governor control full and decent loading to heavy loading but the engine working well with reduced rmp but tossing distance close to max. 4, governor full, engine sagging hard, engine sounds overtaxed, very reduced distance but all working and able to make progress.  At 4 the thing sounds horrable and like a rod will snap.  Sometimes I check and engine in 4 by running for a while and keeping an eye on the breather for oil.  A tired old motor with poor comression will usualy dump oil after being in 4 for a while.  I hate to do it but it's a great confidence builder for a suspect engine.

Torque is generally dictated by cam shaft design.What would be most interesting is if the torque curve stays flat or hardly drops off up to say 3600 rpm for a Tecumseh engine.My guess would be it would be flat or hardly drop off up to max rpm