Outdoor Power Equipment (Lawn Mowers, Snow Blowers, Chain Saws and more) Discussions

Hello,

I came across this website doing a Google search on the Ariens Snow-Thro snow blower. I actually came into possession of this through my next-door neighbour who had put it out at the end of his driveway approximately a month ago. I'm a young man (22), and was very interested in it, so I grabbed it right away. This is the first time I've ever had a snow blower, so I'm not familiar with the thing in the least.

When my mom was in college or university, she took an interest course (not sure if that's what it's called) in Small Gas Engines. As such, she has a Small Gas Engines book by Alfred C. Roth, that has "Fundamentals * Service * Troubleshooting * Repair" on Small Gas Engines. I'm taking an interest in it, and figured that, even if the snow blower fails to work, it would be an excellent 4-cycle engine for me to have as a "project", so to speak.

However, as I said, I'm new to snow blowers. The gentleman who got rid of it (he got a new snow blower) got this used himself, according to his daughter. As such, no manual came with it. I'm not familiar with it in the least, but have learned what I can from the instructions on the machine, and at least know the basics (I think), but I certainly wouldn't know how to start it up.

If someone could help me out with a few specific questions, I would appreciate it.

1. Is there some way of obtaining a(n) owner/user manual?
2. Does it require a "special" type of oil?
3. What kind of lubrication, if any, would it possibly need, and where?

Here is all the information on it that I was able to locate:

Ariens Snow-Thro
National Audubon Society
Mod. 910995 - Ser. 071333
Ariens Company
Brillion, Wisconsin
U.S.A.

As I say, I'm young, but I'm very interested in this thing, and would appreciate some guidance. I'm pretty sure "Mod" stands for the "Model Number", and "Ser" stands for the "Serial Number" - seems logical to me, but if I'm wrong, please let me know (I know, a bit silly, but I rather be safe than sorry).

Sincerely,

-DAWy

http://www.ariens.com/corporate/Pages/OwnerManuals.aspx

Good to start with what Shryp posted.  Also info at http://www.kedawei.com/snowblower.html.

Email trouts2@gmai.com and I'll send back some info.

Hi,

Thank you kindly for that link to a Manual. I appreciate it a lot. I'm off to look through it, but will check back here constantly to see if anyone else has posted.

Thanks!

-DAWy

Hiya,

Thank you for that link as well, Trouts2. I appreciate it.

Later!

-DAWy

Hi,

Just tried the link you gave, Trouts2. It's not coming up. Did you copy the wrong link, perhaps?

TTFN!

-DAWy

DAWy wrote:
His is htm not html.

It is in his signature.

Hello,

Ah, thank you Shryp. Appreciate it.

Later!

-DAWy

DAWy, login and check the upper right Messages folder.

DAWy,
you have a 1971 or 1972 Ariens..

but that model number, 910995, isnt actually the model number of the snowblower! ;)
its just the model number of the scoop..
take a look at the back of the machine, there should be a second tag with another model and serial number,
thats the model number of your machine..
There should also be a tag on the engine, the Tecumseh serial number can also be used to identify the year..
take a look for those numbers! then you will know your exact model number..
if the tag at the rear is missing, you might find the numbers stamped into the frame..look where I have "tractor tag" indicated
in this photo:



even though we dont know the exact model number yet, we still get you your manuals:

Owners manual:
http://apache.ariens.com/manuals/stoi-71.pdf

Parts & service manual:
http://apache.ariens.com/manuals/PRM-10000.pdf

More about the 10,000 series:
http://gold.mylargescale.com/scottychaos/Ariens/Page5.html

(sorry..cant get live links to work..you will have to copy and paste them)

Scot

This is off the subject here. But I expect there will be a lot of posting on this tread.  So I thought this would be a good time to put this out there.

aa335 posted this, I've tried it and it does work.  When trying to post a link for some reason you have to do it twice. Highlight the word, or sentence you want the link connected to.
Click on the Insert/Edit link icon. Paste the link in the box, click OK.
When you Post your comment the link box might come up again. If it does click Cancel and Post your comment.

Looking at your new post. You'll see the underlined text that is supposed to be a link. But it won't work correctly.
Now here is the important part.
Click "Edit" (upper right on your Post).
Edit your post by again Highlighting the link text. Click on the Insert/Edit link icon.  Paste in the link click OK and Post your comment again.
Now your link will work.
This may sound like a lot to do, but it's really not once you've done it a time or two.  Wish they would fix it though.
I'm on a Mac using Firefox. Things may work differently on a PC or with different Browser.

jrtrebor wrote:
I tried it!
the links are now "clickable"..which they werent before..
but when you click on them..nothing happens..they dont open..
(you can still open them by copying the text, then pasting it into a new browser window..but they dont open when you click on them..)
Im using Firefox 3.6.13 with Win 7.

thanks,
Scot

Hello, Ah, I missed this when scanning for it. Made a new post - looking for the Ariens Snow-Thro oil that's suggested in the manual. Not in the Canadian Tire store that I'm looking in. What alternative can I use, if any? Thank you! -DAWy

DAWy wrote:

There are many different opinions on here about Oil, some very pasionate.

For me, I use a good quality conventional Oil, 5w30, Castrol, sometimes Quaker State, if Castrol is not available.

As for synthetic Oil, it is up to you if it is worth it. Too me, it is not. With regular oil changes, and proper use, the Engine will outlast the Blower.

There have been several comments, one from a friend, about synthetic preventing the proper break in of the new motor.

Once it is broken in, then use synthetic if you like, but I personaly don't think you are gaining anything.

Rubinew is right.  I just use Canadian Tire 5W-30 oil in everything.  My John Deere snowblower is 29 years old and the engine is still going strong.  Toyota Tercel  from 1986 with almost 500,000 km on it is rusty but the engine is good.  I have seen a lot of reviews that indicate that there is not much difference in motor oils (of the same type).  The really important thing is to change the oil on schedule and not try to skimp on that.

Woof,

You seem like a super frugal gentleman.  Your snowblower is worth more than your 500km Tercel so what is your logic behind buying a brand new Honda 928TCD.  Maybe it is the fun factor?

Hello, sscotsman wrote:

Hmm ... I'll have a look and see what I can find. Mind you, the numbers I got weren't on the scoop, they were on the side of the machine. However, I'll double check the back, as you suggested. Thanks! -DAWy

Hello, sscotsman wrote:

Good news - I found it. Bad news - it's a bit worn. Model # looks like 910002 Serial # looks to be 010202 Weather isn't too bad today, and I have some free time, so I'm gonna try to see if it'll run. Wish me luck! Sincerely, -DAWy

Hello, All right. I'm not seeing where I put oil in for the "Crankcase". I also just ran across a leak below the gas tank. It's definitely gas. Any thoughts on how to fix this? Thanks! -DAWy

For engine oil you probably have a small screw on cap on the front of the engine.  I don't think the older ones had the high dipstick above the engine so you probably have it either at 45 degrees on one of the sides or straight up on the bottom corner.  It will be on the front of the engine.

For the gas leak, it is probably eight the fuel line or the bushing keeping the end of the line to the tank.  The plastic tanks just have it molded into the tank, the metal tanks I believe have a metal bushing holding the fitting on.  You might also have a hole in the bottom of the tank.  Plastic can crack and metal can rust.  If your tank has a fuel shutoff under it the valve could be leaking also.

Here is a picture of the oil fill on an H60-H70.  It is the white plastic tube / black cap on the front of the engine.  If yours does not have the long tube, it might have just a cap where the tube goes into the engine.  If yours has nothing there, it might have 2 similar caps at 45 degrees on the side of that front cover of the engine.

Hey, Thank you, Shryp. Found the oil in the front, just below the gas tank. Gas is dripping from a screw and the gas tank is plastic. Sincerely, -DAWy

The screw sounds like a fuel shut off.  Do you have about 1" of hose coming down from the tank, then the screw, then the hose goes at 90 degrees through the engine and out the other side?  If you have enough hose you can remove the valve.  Would be better to replace it though.  Might be time to just replace all the fuel lines and clean out the carb.  Shutoff is useful in case the float starts leaking during storage.

If it is not a bad leak, tightening that screw should in theory stop it from leaking during storage, and a little dripping during use should not harm anything.  You could let it go until you get it running.

If you want to replace some stuff I ordered some parts from these guys and the stuff was pretty cheap.

http://www.mfgsupply.com/m/c/714B--5.html
http://www.mfgsupply.com/m/c/20-9294.html
http://www.mfgsupply.com/m/c/20-6000.html
http://www.mfgsupply.com/m/c/20-5904.html

They have shear bolts, belts, bearings, bushings, skids, scraper blades and carb parts too if you need them.

Hey, Yup, that pretty much describes it. I'll take a picture of it and post it, just to make sure there is no risk of any confusion. Give me a few minutes here. Thank you very much. -DAWy

No need for the picture, I know exactly what you are talking about.

Apparently some of the plastic ones use the bushing too.  I found this picture online:

Hello,

Just a quick note: my apologies for all my previous posts that didn't have any paragraphs in them. I was using my "smart phone" to post. Apparently it's not smart enough to make paragraphs.

Here is a picture of where it is actually leaking, and what it looks like. I took this after having undone the entire thing, and draining the gas. The strange thing is it's leaking right where the screw is. At least that seems strange to me. Could there be a small hole in the actual screw?!



Here is a picture of how the line runs:



I'm pretty sure the way you described it is 100% accurate, Shryp, but there's some pictures for you so you can visually see it.

Thanks for all the help, by the way. I really appreciate it!

Sincerely,

-DAWy

Hello,

Shryp wrote:

Whoops! Sorry, Shryp. Didn't catch this post until just now. Hope ya don't mind, mate.

Sincerely,

-DAWy

Yes, that is it.  The screw is the same as a water valve I think.  Hole goes all the way through and there is an O-ring by the screw handle.  O-ring is shot.  You might have enough slack in the line to pull the screw and the black piece off and put that orange piece right on the tank.  If there is a small nut behind the screw, you might be able to get away with tightening it a bit.

Looks like that is in good shape yet, should be easy to get running.

Hello,

By the way, something that's been bothering me a bit: on the right side of this machine, there are two handles. What exactly are they, and are they important for when I go to start this beast? You can see one in my first picture, to the bottom right (not very well), and the other in my second picture,jutting out from behind the gas tank. I printed out a copy of the manual, but had no luck locating them, so I have no clue what they are.

Thanks again for the help!

Sincerely,

-DAWy

I have never used those older Ariens, but have done some research on them.  The handle that goes up and down tightens the belt and the handle that goes side to side engages the augers.  Those old machines only used one belt.  Make sure it is in neutral.  Start it with the belt handle down.  Engage the auger handle (I think turning it "out" engages it).  Then lift the belt handle.  You have to be more careful with these older ones since after you have them running the auger is always engaged with that handle out.  Some of the original transmissions were also backwards from the new ones.  You held the handle down to disengage and then released the handle to drive.  They were designed around safety.  Start it up and let it go down the street all by itself.  What could be more safe then being no one where the blower while it is operating?  :)

You never want to engage the augers while the belt engagement is on because it uses metal teeth that mesh.  If you tried engaging at speed they would grind into each other.