Outdoor Power Equipment (Lawn Mowers, Snow Blowers, Chain Saws and more) Discussions

Ok, so I picked up an old 1977 Ariens 8HP 24" 924026 blower back in September for $20.  Actually it was $20 each or $30 for both if I grabbed a walk behind leaf blower too.  Neither one were in great shape and both had been setting for quite some time.  I picked up a yard vac after that so didn't feel like messing with the leaf blower and sold that for $50 as-is.  Got the snow blower running with a carb clean out and rebuild and some new fuel lines.  Changed out some old bearings and bushings and put some new tires and an impeller kit on it and could not wait to try it out.  We got 2 snow storms of about 1-2" and obviously it handled those with no trouble.  Then we had 3" of snow.  Oh boy did I have lots of snow to play with then.  Well, I was admiring how far it was tossing a small drift in the back yard and the connecting rod exited the block...

Well, I like to go overboard so I also opted for the 11HP Greyhound instead of the more sensible 6.5HP one.

If it works out great, maybe I'll strip it down and repaint it so it doesn't look like crap.

Finally got to use the blower today in about 3". Worked great.

My biggest problem: I ran out of neighbors!

Ok, I think I will have to go back up to a normal size pulley for the drive, or maybe slightly larger. It does seem a bit slow and I found myself using 5th gear for blowing snow. It is nice to get done quick though.  The current one is about 2" diameter and the original was about 2.5".

Hidden newspaper: didn't stand a chance, though it did get partially stuck in the impeller, but that was more the plastic bag wedged between the impeller kit and the housing and a half turn got it out. Never bogged down, just started making noise as it spun around inside. It wasn't a full size Sunday paper, just a small weekday one. If I kept the impeller engaged, it probably would have finished shredding the other half and cleared itself.

3/4 baseball size chunk of concrete: flies great, though a bit noisy.

I had concerns about the front end riding up because the bigger engine sits back further. I still might add some more weight to the front, but it seemed to handle pretty well except for the packed down tire tracks.

I think I might have a chipped tooth on one of the auger gears. It works great under normal use, but I just noticed when stepping on the rakes to spin the impeller that way there is one spot that slips down a tooth. I have another gearbox I was thinking of switching into it anyway, because I think this one also has a slightly bent shaft. When running full speed there is a slight up and down movement. Maybe the rake shaft is bent? This was on the front end that had heavy gravel gouges noted on the bucked and some bad dings on the impeller. I kept this gearbox over the other one, because the other one needs a new impeller shaft seal and this one wasn't leaking.

While on the subject, can the other impeller shaft seal be changed through the gear side or does the impeller have to come off to get to it? It doesn't look too rusted, but I have not tried taking it apart yet. I know I can get the rakes off it fine. Last but not least, I believe the manual says to use gasoila to seal the adjustment plug. Have you guys been using any kind of permatex stuff, or should I internet order some of that gasoila stuff?

I know jackssmallengines has the impeller, rake shaft, gear case seals and bronze bushings. If I go through the trouble of rebuilding the gearbox should I change the roller bearings too or do those generally not wear out? It spins nice and smooth and had oil in it when I got it, so I assume everything is good inside. I just had all the oil run out the back when I tipped it up to work on the rakes.

I might just save the other gearbox for a summer project and strip everything down and repaint it.

The drawing is a little weird.  It shows a removeable type worm in the picture but no pin for it.   It's probably not an accurate drawing of the worm.  The worm is probably the standard which is cut into the shaft.  In that case you'll have to go in from the impeller side. 

Never heard of gasoila before or the adjustment plug.  ??  The gearbox uses a gasket which you can supplement with Permatex or any other sticky stuff, loctite & etc.

>>If I go through the trouble of rebuilding the gearbox should I change the roller bearings too or do those generally not wear out?

   Bearings = plural?  The gearbox uses flange bearings and the same for the rake axle supports.  The auger support is a roller bearing so if that one it depends.  If it were my machine I'd definetly put in another unless it looked new regardless of being free.   For a machine I was working on to later sell those always get a new auger support bearing if I have things apart for something else.  Depends on your maint philosophy.

   Seems like a ripping machine with lots of love for anything in the bucket.   What happened with the shear pin?

I have never taken one apart, just going by the service manual.

The drawings for this gear box show 2 tappered roller bearings for the impeller and 2 bronze flange bushings for the rake shaft. (internal to gearbox)

I changed the impeller bearing already and the outer flange bushings, I was referring to the bearings in the gearbox.

The adjustment plug is a screw that tightens up the impeller shaft.  The box is solid with a threaded hole in the back.  The adjustment plug is a big nut that goes over the impeller shaft that holds the roller bearings and o-ring seal in.

These don't have worms, they have helical gears.  I believe the gear is cut right into the impeller shaft.

What about the shear bolts?  Those are intact.

I picked up 2 of these last year for pretty cheap so I have been swapping parts between them to get all the good parts on 1 machine.

Shryp wrote:

>>>I changed the impeller bearing already and the outer flange bushings, I was referring to the bearings in the gearbox.

Me to but I misunderstood because for some reason the model I thought you had was a 32 not a 26.  The 32 has an aluminum gearbox with no roller bearings so I was confused by the plural.  

For the terminology, they call the driven gear worm gear in the drawing.  Figure 10 is worm gear and shaft.   The cut driving part on the shaft many call worm so worm and worm gear.  Helical is for curved tops of teeth (versus straight across)  I thought but possibly it could refer to curved as in the type of driven gear used in the 26 with curved teeth on the sides.   

I opened up one of those long ago just for a peak and never noticed the adjuster nut.  Never knew there was one on those.

So you must have swapped parts enough to not need to take off the impeller.  Did you seal or plug the leak with something?

I swapped the gearbox, rakes and impeller from one housing to another.

One housing was in great shape, but the impeller shaft seal is leaking.  This is the one I want to rebuild and put back in the housing.
It still worked and held oil as long as it wasn't tipped back, but I figured if oil could get out then water could get in.

The other housing had big dents / gouges down the back side from what looked like gravel being forced behind the rakes.

I'll probably just wait until summer and pop it open and look to see what is inside.  Then order new seals for it and repaint it.

Shyrp, I have almost the identical Ariens, and I'm tired of dinking around with all the little problems on the HM80. I'm seriously considering replacing it with a Greyhound 6.5. (Plus I have a real greyhound, so this makes it even better.) How compatible were the dimensions on the 6.5? Did everything line up okay? Do these engines seem happy in the cold weather without a heater box on the carb? Thanks!

I used an 11 HP Greyhound on this so I had to slide the engine back a bit and drill new holes.  I also had to rig up the belt cover since the crank on the 11 was higher than the HM80.  The belts also had to be longer.  The base on the 11 is also a bit wider which causes the holes to be drilled really close to the frame edges.  It is a tight fit, but they just barely fit.  I did have trouble getting a socket on the bolt that ends up under the pivot point for the friction drive engagement as the bracket under the frame is kind of in the way.  It clears once tightened down, but I had to fiddle with moving the lever a bit and then pushing the arm out of the way to force the socket on.

Full left on the chute and it hits the muffler on the new engine.  I believe the old engine did the same thing as well.  It is well past 180 degrees and it hits right about the same time the ring gear runs out of teeth so that is not much of a problem.  Full right stops right past 180 degrees,  The chute ends up hitting the belt cover I made and I can hear the crank/pulley rub if I try to force it more.  It gives plenty of turn for me though.  I might pull the cover off and try to see what is rubbing and see if I can reshape it to give a little more turn when it warms up.  It works well enough that I do not consider it a problem though.

The heavier engine and moving it back has made the front end a little light.  I have been thinking of adding some weight on the scoop to counter balance it better.  It is usable, but has a tendency to wheelie a lot.

The 11HP is almost twice the size of the 6.5.  I put a 6.5 on a Toro 3521 and it was an exact replacement for the H35 that was on it.

I think the 6.5 and the HM80 are the same, but I have not compared them myself.

I have had no problems with either engine in regards to cold temperatures or icing of carb or governor.

The 6.5 always needs choke to start, even if warm.  The 11 seems to behave more normal and not need the choke so much.  It doesn't really bother me though.

The 6.5 almost always starts on the first pull, the 11 usually takes 2.  But, I always seem to forget to give the 11 throttle and attempt to start it at idle.
(The throttle lever on the 11 is hidden a bit more and I always forget about it for some reason.)

AlwaysFixing, the 6.5 Honda clone fits right on, has clearance with the chute crank for the head, and belt cover fits. 

The existing motor mount studs are too short.  Cut and drill and bolts from the bottom will match the bolt holes on the engine.  I've converted two of that style, 924032 and 924035.  I forget which model it is but one model requires you grind off side section of the flange bolt to fit.  

The machine tosses very well with the 6.5. 

I have to choke to start 6.5's and it's the same for real Hondas.

You don't need to cut and drill the studs.  A hammer knocks them right out.

   How does one get to know that.  Is one's approach to alway try hammering first?