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biffr1


Joined: Oct 31, 2010
Points: 3

Toro Barrel Augers
Original Message   Jan 2, 2011 9:41 pm
Does anyone know why the Toro company stopped using the barrel auger? and if so why did they start using them, and what was the prupose of that design? todays models do not seem to use them any longer. thanks 
This message was modified Jan 2, 2011 by biffr1
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trouts2




Location: Marlboro MA
Joined: Dec 8, 2007
Points: 1328

Re: Toro Barrel Augers
Reply #8   Jan 3, 2011 9:50 am
What does that pointed to thread look like on your monitor.  Even with wrap it blows out the thread.  The reading is a mile to the right.

You can adjust the pictures to be top to bottom rather than all across which screws things up.

If you get lost on where the curser is it's where you think it should be but hard to see.  For example when it's 1 line above give a down arrow to get on the picture line.  One right arrow should take you to the right of the first picture.  Give it a and enter and all the pictures to the right should drop down a line and the first picture above.  I think at that point you could just right arrow and return through the rest to put them all top to bottom which will bring back the formatting.

Shryp


Location: Cleveland, OH
Joined: Jul 26, 2010
Points: 532

Re: Toro Barrel Augers
Reply #9   Jan 3, 2011 10:39 am
The other thread looked fine to me.  All the pictures were stacked on on top of the other.  Are you saying on your screen they all showed up next to each other?

I went through and added a blank line between each one, maybe that will help you.  They are 800x600 instead of 640x480.
trouts2




Location: Marlboro MA
Joined: Dec 8, 2007
Points: 1328

Re: Toro Barrel Augers
Reply #10   Jan 3, 2011 2:15 pm
Yep, that makes the thread readable.  Before the thread expanded about 9 times to the right.  Lines of text were 9 pagefulls to the right so single line of very long length way off screen. 

Not sure what threads format differently for you.  Some browsers have the option to reformat large items to be smaller.  That is things that cause the scrowlbars to come up.  Photos do it, very long URS's that go longer than a page will do it and big PDF's also.  There a lots of things that cause scrowlbars to come up.  Usualy people do not what that as a default so the option is usually not set in browsers.  In Opera it's not.  In IE it's not.  In Opera it works.  In IE it does not for pictures in Abbys so depending on someones browser settings big Abbys pictures may or may not blow out the firmatting.  It's probably off by default in most browsers as it will distort many more things than it cures.

trouts2




Location: Marlboro MA
Joined: Dec 8, 2007
Points: 1328

Re: Toro Barrel Augers
Reply #11   Jan 3, 2011 2:44 pm
The 800 blow out the thread.  640 would have been better. 

Nice job on the cover.  Did you just bend that by hand without a break?

I did the same 11 on a mid 80's 924nnn.  The tractor had pre-drilled holes for the engine but the crankend still ended up 1/4 in too long for the cover.  The toss was improved 5 to 20 feet depending on conditions over the old motor.  It was super compared to the old engine at EOD or wet snow and tossed it like dry snow. 

Yep, lots of bodes out there cheap that are good candidates for the HF motors. 

>>I figured the 11 would be just as reliable. 

It should be.  I also used to get the warrenties but I bought so many it was enough to pay for a motor so I bought a motor as a spare.  Should anyone have an issue I'll give them a new motor. 

All in all what I found was the 6.5s improved the tossing about 10 feet over the old 7hp engines.  They keep right up or better 8hp ST924's from the 80s and 90s.  A fresh 6.5 OHV should and does.  I love planting them.  They are very good in wet grey snow with lots of power. 

Shryp


Location: Cleveland, OH
Joined: Jul 26, 2010
Points: 532

Re: Toro Barrel Augers
Reply #12   Jan 3, 2011 3:33 pm
The cover is just roof flashing bent by hand with a few sheet metal screws holding it to the old plastic cover.  I cut the top off like jrtrebor did.  The one thing that has me a little worried is I bolted a piece of 1x2 wood to the top 2 holes on the engine block as a backing for the new cover.  I wonder if the engine will get too hot for the wood.  On the other hand, the old cover was plastic so it should be all right.  I think the cover is rigid enough now that it doesn't need the back brace though.  The piece of wood is how I got the top to look so square.
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