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Izzynormal


Joined: Dec 10, 2010
Points: 5

Honda HS928 work light questions
Original Message   Dec 22, 2010 10:55 pm
I wanted to save a few bucks on a work light.  One seller on feeBay said the GE H7614 halogen is the replacement for the work light. It is a 12V 50W flood lamp.  I asked if it's the same as the one from Honda because I'm not sure of the volts and amperage of the lighting coil on the HS928. 

Anyone know the details of the replacement lamp?  Maybe open the work light and check the numbers on the back of the light?  Harbor Frieght has a rubber work light that is only 35 watts but is about $16 compared to Honda price of about $70.  I'd have to make a bracket but that should be easy.  I don't know the wattage or voltage of the lighting coil.  I read it could be as low as 18 watts and is 12V.A.C. not 12V.D.C. and 50watts.

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New_Yorker


Preach the Gospel always, use words when necessary

Location: Long Island, NY
Joined: Nov 26, 2010
Points: 219

Re: Honda HS928 work light questions
Reply #5   Dec 24, 2010 10:21 am
aa335 wrote:
New Yorker,

Do you think the electrical system can support a 50W bulb?


The Halogen bulb that Honda supplies (the Model 507 PM Light) is already a 50 WATT halogen bulb inside a sealed beam, so the stator on the GX 270 Honda Engine (what Honda suplied me on my new HS 928 TAS snowblower) must be capable of powering that light.  I was able to upgrade because that 300 lumens of light is far less than the 10 'Great White' LED's in the model 907 PM light I will use and that will, because LED's only need small amounts of electricity, work just great, and they have a 100,000 hour estimated life, so it's unlikely you'll ever have to buy a replacement bulb.  I hope this helps ! Merry Christmas !

go to www.1000bulbs.com, then "Clik-On" Halogen Lights, then go to the columns on the rightside of the page and under the list for "Bulb Shape" choose, PAR 36, the first bulb to come up is whqt you want to replace the original Honda Bulb, a wide Flood light pattern 50Watt that has both the screw terminals you will need to connect it and the slip on type.  The bulb sells for $ 6.85 each, it is a Halco HaloXen bulb  that is an exact match to the Honda bulb, and the rubber PM model 507 housing it fits into.

This message was modified Dec 24, 2010 by New_Yorker
aa335


Joined: Nov 29, 2008
Points: 2434

Re: Honda HS928 work light questions
Reply #6   Dec 24, 2010 10:37 am
Are you going to use anything inline to stabilize the voltage?  Halogen can tolerate fluctuating voltage, but LED's prefer constant voltage.
New_Yorker


Preach the Gospel always, use words when necessary

Location: Long Island, NY
Joined: Nov 26, 2010
Points: 219

Re: Honda HS928 work light questions
Reply #7   Dec 24, 2010 10:54 am
aa335 wrote:
Are you going to use anything inline to stabilize the voltage?  Halogen can tolerate fluctuating voltage, but LED's prefer constant voltage.

Peterson Manufacturing sells the LED model 907 for the same applications they sell the halogen 507, so I doubt they expect any difficulty in the exchange, nor should I.   Both are identical weatherproof rubber housings and the sealed beam units fit in precisely the same way.  The only additional modification I intend to add to this is a simple on-off toggle switch, a sealed unit, and a silicone weatherproof 'boot' that screws onto the switch.  After all the connections are complete I will seal them against moisture with a small amount of 'Plasti-Dip' which should keep all moisture out of the wiring pretty permenantly.  Should work out great.
Steve_Cebu


Joined: Dec 17, 2009
Points: 888

Re: Honda HS928 work light questions
Reply #8   Dec 24, 2010 3:52 pm
New_Yorker wrote:
Peterson Manufacturing sells the LED model 907 for the same applications they sell the halogen 507, so I doubt they expect any difficulty in the exchange, nor should I.   Both are identical weatherproof rubber housings and the sealed beam units fit in precisely the same way.  The only additional modification I intend to add to this is a simple on-off toggle switch, a sealed unit, and a silicone weatherproof 'boot' that screws onto the switch.  After all the connections are complete I will seal them against moisture with a small amount of 'Plasti-Dip' which should keep all moisture out of the wiring pretty permenantly.  Should work out great.


Please post some pics of this setup once you have it all finished. I'm sure a lot of us would like to see it. I'd also be interested in how it handles under the cold it will get on a snowblower over a period of time.

"If you have more miles on your snow blower than your car, you live in New England."  "If you can drive 75 mph through 2 feet of snow during a raging blizzard without flinching, you live in New England."
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